[yka]

Hi,

I just opened my 560SL -86 throttle linkage bearings and noticed as ruted they were - look the pics.

Has anyone changed these needle bearings and what is the code/size.

I am afraid I have to buy complete spare lever with these bearings....:-((

BR

Yka

 

[ChiefRider]

Hard to tell from the photos, but they look fine to me, just in need of cleaning and regreasing. If they are "ruted" as you say, where there is a sort of trough or indentation or worn spot that makes them feel like you are rotating a switch rather than turning something smooth, that would be due to something called "false brinnelling" and then the shaft (if affected" and bearings would need to be replaced to achieve a smooth action. The bearings should have some printing on the exposed face, and a bearing supplier could sell you replacements inexpensively. You would need a press and an appropriate arbor (pilot tool) to push the bearings out of the arm.

Try a thorough cleaning and exam first.

 

[roncallo]

I never knew there was a needle bearing in there. Only MB would do that.

Bearing is probably standard and can be purchased at any bearing supplier. Need ID, OD, length and seal configuration.

 

[yka]

Thank you both,

I cleaned and creased them as adviced, most of the rust came away but there still excists some free play. Cleaning and greasing gives me extra time solve this bearing issue.

It looks that there is douple needle bearings parallel - so it will be challenging to get both of them out.

Internal diameter is 8mm and the external diameter is 12mm. Bearing labelling says INA GERMANY HK0810. I am also pretty confident to find these bearings as standard size.

Thanks again and best regards,

 

[nobby]

Thank you both,

I cleaned and creased them as adviced, most of the rust came away but there still excists some free play. Cleaning and greasing gives me extra time solve this bearing issue.

It looks that there is douple needle bearings parallel - so it will be challenging to get both of them out.

Internal diameter is 8mm and the external diameter is 12mm. Bearing labelling says INA GERMANY HK0810. I am also pretty confident to find these bearings as standard size.

Thanks again and best regards,

HK0810 Needle Bearing 8x12x10 TLA810Z Miniature Needle Bearings

 

[yka]

Thanks and excellent Nobby!

- I will order these bearings imediately.

Hope this thread helps other to clean and lubricate throttle needle bearings earlier than me...

BR,

 

[ChiefRider]

INA is probably the biggest needle bearing manufacturer in Europe, and the HK0812 is a standard catalog bearing. Yes, you do have two bearings in the bellcrank, but they shouldn't be too difficult to remove.

You will need:

An arbor press

Appropriate supporting materials that will support the tubular section of the bell crank, allowing the force applied by the press on the bearings to pass thru the tube without distorting the tube. Something close to the O.D. of the bearing will suffice.

A pilot tool, or arbor. To install or remove a needle bearing you will need to have someone with lathe access turn one for you- here are the specifics

It of course must fit into the arbor press. The bearing end must fit into the bore of the bearing under the rollers. Above this pilot surface you need a larger diameter, very slightly under the housing diameter, a few micrometers undersize. Here is the important part- this collar MUST have a 15 degree back angle on its face, such that the force apllied thru it to the bearing is applied at the O.D. of the bearing, and not all across the bearing's face. This allows the force to be applied thru the wall of the bearing and prevents it from distorting into the housing. Also, it is important to press against the stamped end (where the name "INA" is) and not the curled lip.

Assuming you can meet these criteria, you should be able to press both bearings thru the housing together.

 

[roncallo]

INA is probably the biggest needle bearing manufacturer in Europe, and the HK0812 is a standard catalog bearing. Yes, you do have two bearings in the bellcrank, but they shouldn't be too difficult to remove.

You will need:

An arbor press

Appropriate supporting materials that will support the tubular section of the bell crank, allowing the force applied by the press on the bearings to pass thru the tube without distorting the tube. Something close to the O.D. of the bearing will suffice.

A pilot tool, or arbor. To install or remove a needle bearing you will need to have someone with lathe access turn one for you- here are the specifics

It of course must fit into the arbor press. The bearing end must fit into the bore of the bearing under the rollers. Above this pilot surface you need a larger diameter, very slightly under the housing diameter, a few micrometers undersize. Here is the important part- this collar MUST have a 15 degree back angle on its face, such that the force apllied thru it to the bearing is applied at the O.D. of the bearing, and not all across the bearing's face. This allows the force to be applied thru the wall of the bearing and prevents it from distorting into the housing. Also, it is important to press against the stamped end (where the name "INA" is) and not the curled lip.

Assuming you can meet these criteria, you should be able to press both bearings thru the housing together.

F all that.

You need an undersize deep socket and over socket and a vise to press them out. You need a vise and 2 blocks of wood to press them in. Another person or third and forth hand would be a big help.

If it was a bearing in a turbo shaft engine I might advise otherwise.

 

[yka]

Thank you for these detailed infos. I will produce this size and shape arbor tool and follow your instructions.

The interesting criteria is "Also, it is important to press against the stamped end (where the name "INA" is) and not the curled lip."

- The INA text is visible both sides - MB has used this INA rule in their manufacturing process. I have to try to push both of them out at the same time...

BR

yka

 

[ChiefRider]

Sorry John, I disagree. In a poor housing such as the throttle shaft, it is even more important to "get it right" or you are likely to screw up the housing. He has not only this to contend with, but one bearing must push the other out too.

 

[roncallo]

Sorry John, I disagree. In a poor housing such as the throttle shaft, it is even more important to "get it right" or you are likely to screw up the housing. He has not only this to contend with, but one bearing must push the other out too.

You must be a machinist. Never wrong to use an arbor and such, Ive just had to improvise all my life. Like the staked in allegedly non replaceable "U" joints" in the drive shaft that I replaced with a vice, sockets, drift and ball peen hammer 60,000 miles ago.

Arbor press is on my want to buy list, but improvising and of course sometimes the failures that go with such improvising are the reason I can keep 2 107s.

 

[ChiefRider]

From a family of toolmakers and engineers. I spent 12 years in the engineering dept. of the Torrington Co, the inventors of the drawn cup needle roller bearing. I too have done the socket and vise thing and it can save your butt. In an application like this it's too easy to screw it up.

 

[roncallo]

From a family of toolmakers and engineers. I spent 12 years in the engineering dept. of the Torrington Co, the inventors of the drawn cup needle roller bearing.

I kind of nailed that one didn't I

 

[nobby]

I kind of nailed that one didn't I

After, uh, (cough) getting hammered....so to speak.

 

[roncallo]

After, uh, (cough) getting hammered....so to speak.

A good toolmaker will always cringe at my Frankenstein tooling and processes. Thats why I knew he was a machinist or along those lines.

Now wait until you see me paint my car.

 

[nobby]

A good toolmaker will always cringe at my Frankenstein tooling and processes. Thats why I knew he was a machinist or along those lines.

Now wait until you see me paint my car.

I might need to come see that for myself.
Have any lawn chairs?

 

[ChiefRider]

A good toolmaker will always cringe at my Frankenstein tooling and processes. Thats why I knew he was a machinist or along those lines.

Nah, creativity is great. Building Samson, you don't have to apaologize for anything!

 

[roncallo]

Nah, creativity is great. Building Samson, you don't have to apaologize for anything!

Of course I don't mean to be rude and certainly apologize if Chief or anyone took it that way.

But the reality is that many times we as DIYers need to improvise and just cant justify production tooling for the one off jobs we do at home. However a good understanding of the theory behind the correct way to do things is what will make improvising successful.

Close your eyes Chief attached are pictures of Roncallo's finest tooling. Note the Wiley Coyote trademark anvil.

 

[RobertinMn]

Of course I don't mean to be rude and certainly apologize if Chief or anyone took it that way.

But the reality is that many times we as DIYers need to improvise and just cant justify production tooling for the one off jobs we do at home. However a good understanding of the theory behind the correct way to do things is what will make improvising successful.

Close your eyes Chief attached are pictures of Roncallo's finest tooling. Note the Wiley Coyote trademark anvil.

Very nice, very nice. Quite impressive "makeshift" press.

 

[strife2]

The earlier linkage had small nylon bearings in this area. I have one that disintegrated on the engine that I am rebuilding. I did pick up a few spares at the junkyard. It's surprising that your parts rusted.

By the way, the ones that I have as spares exhibit "a little" play. I would guess that some small amount is probably acceptable in this application, and they might have had some when they were new.