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'11 ML350
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Discussion Starter #1
as many a saying goes, "...it's not if, but when..."

If you have a later model year ML with those idiotically designed rear floor vents, it's only a matter of time before something finds its way into the bowels of those vents. If that something has been rolling around on the back seat floor, rest assured it will eventually find roll into the protected confines of those fricken vents. Believe me, it's maddening. Every stop and go, every left and right turn...the darn thing could be heard sliding/rolling from one side to the other.

In my case, it was a 79cent roll of ChapStick was discovered. It cost me 1 hr mechanic's time ($120) to have the seat removed, etc. in order to remove the vent.

Has anyone come up with a reasonable solution to protecting the vent openings? I've considered a simple solution of just using window screen material and taping it across the openings with black duct tape. Not pretty, but should be effective. Surely, someone has come up with a more elegant solution? (I know, don't call me Shirley)
 

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2008 Mercedes ML350 4-Matic
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Re; Those stupid rear heating vents...

Yeah, I totally agree they are stupidly placed heating vents
but did not really think of what you are saying and I even have kids!

The main thing that has always bothered me about them is my size 12 feet
always hitting them, partially blocking them, and possibly cracking them.
They are just plain in the way of anyone that wants to relax a bit more
and stretch out their legs a bit more under the seats.

I've had many other vehicles and yes some had vents placed in that
general area but these are the worst I have seen yet becuase like
you said they are "wide-open" and flush with the carpet so anything can
just roll in them...who knows, maybe some of my kids knick-knacks have made their way down there, even food items.

Well, I just hope Mercedes masterful engineering is in the more important stuff
like safety becuase I dont know how they could have let this one go...

Steve
Aldie, Virginia
 

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as many a saying goes, "...it's not if, but when..."

If you have a later model year ML with those idiotically designed rear floor vents, it's only a matter of time before something finds its way into the bowels of those vents. If that something has been rolling around on the back seat floor, rest assured it will eventually find roll into the protected confines of those fricken vents. Believe me, it's maddening. Every stop and go, every left and right turn...the darn thing could be heard sliding/rolling from one side to the other.

In my case, it was a 79cent roll of ChapStick was discovered. It cost me 1 hr mechanic's time ($120) to have the seat removed, etc. in order to remove the vent.

Has anyone come up with a reasonable solution to protecting the vent openings? I've considered a simple solution of just using window screen material and taping it across the openings with black duct tape. Not pretty, but should be effective. Surely, someone has come up with a more elegant solution? (I know, don't call me Shirley)
Same problem in 2009 ML350 - had to remove seat (see here: https://www.benzworld.org/threads/battery-under-the-front-seat.1248869/page-2#post-5500478). Then cut carpet with tin snips, straight line forward from right edge of vent, (It folds back nicely.) There is a round connector holding the vent down, very obvious. Use some kind of tool to pull straight up on the center dowel - it will release. Then the lower piece pulls out also. Carefully slide the vent out from the center connection in the tunnel, trying not to tip it so the rattle-gremlin falls deeper. Mine was a AA battery!!! Argh!! When replacing the seat, the right side plastic shrouds on slide channel need to be in place before you rebolt the seat..left side ones slide together after seat is in. Save $120 and DIY. Thanks all!!
 

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Followup on post above re rattle in heater vent housing: When I reconnected all the electrical and replaced the seat, I got an SRS code "SRS Malfunction - Front left service required". From reading elsewhere, this will require clearing with a carsoft or a star diagnostic scan tool, and probably will cost $ at an independent shop...sorry, did not know this until after procedure completed.
 
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