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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Last night I hardwired my V1 in my w220. It took about 20 minutes to do. I did a search here on this topic, but I didn't find much that was helpful, so I decided to do this little writeup to maybe help someone else down the road.

I didn't take any pictures, and I might go back and add them later, but a detailed description will have to do for now.

I started by going up in the attic to find my original box that the V1 came in. There were two extra sets of suction cups that came with the unit. I decided to mount it above and to the left of the rear view mirror. I have read several posts about the most effective position to mount these (because of the UV coating on the glass) and decided to test out the rear view mirror location. I have a permanent "speed sign" just up the street from my house, so I used it as a test ground. Sure enough, the unit worked perfectly when mounted behind the little black dots above the mirror.

OK, so back to the suction cups. I chose to use the largest pair. I did this because they allow you to mount the unit as close to the headliner as possible so that it will not interfere with the mirror. I tried to use the smaller suction cups, but I could only get them to stick with the unit resting on the top of the mirror, and that didn't sit right with me.

Now, with the mount figured out, I removed it from the glass to start running the power wire. I started at the detector end. I simply left one end hanging out from between the roof and headliner. I gently pulled the leading edge of the headliner down towards the floor, just enough to squeeze the thin power wire between the roof and the liner as I worked my way towards the driver's side A-pillar. The closer I got to the pillar, the more difficult it was to pull a small gap in the head liner because the pillar panel held the liner firmly against the roof.

Now I had to release the pillar cover. Mine is suede and I'm sure I don't even want to know how much it would cost to replace, so I was a bit nervous about this one. I found out that there are little metal clips that hold that panel to the A-pillar. I pulled only the top of the pillar cover loose. I did this by working my finger into the gap where the pillar cover and the head liner meet. I carefully pulled it out at a 45 degree angle (towards the passenger seat). It slowly pulled loose from the metal clip that holds it in place.

With the top of the A-pillar cover panel loose, I ran the wire from the inside of the pillar cover (closest to the steering wheel) to the outside of the pillar cover (the side that butts up against the door weather stripping). On my car, there is the suede cover and that is finished off on the outside edge with a fabric flexible strip that overlaps the panel and finishes it off nicely. Rather than remove the whole pillar panel, I simply peeled back the little fabric flap (exposing the gap between the two trim pieces) and squished the power wire in that gap. Once the rubbery fabric trim is back in place, you don't know the wire is there.

That works all the way down to where the pillar panel ends and the side of the dash begins. Rather than trying to figure out how to get that part of the dash apart, I decided to squeeze the wire between the carpeted side foot panel (the panel your left foot would touch when you are driving the car) and the leather dash side panel. I noticed that it was a bit tight right there, but I used a flat head screw driver taking great care not to scratch the leather trim. As I pushed the thin wire through this tight gap, I noticed that it must open up a little behind where the two panels meet, because the wire just slips back there and you would have no idea that is was there.

OK, so now I had the power wire for the radar detector running from the spot above and to the left of the mirror to the gap in the panels just above the emergency brake release lever. The next step was to remove the plastic panel that seals off the under side of the driver's side dash (above the pedals). I unscrewed the two 8mm bolts at the leading edge that are slightly countersunk in the carpeted part of the panel (closest to driver's seat) and one phillips screw that is slightly recessed in the plastic part of the panel. There is also a medium sized plastic clip that has to be turned counter clockwise just about in the middle of the panel. It is white and about the size of a quarter. With all four of those fasteners removed, I worked the front part of the panel (part closest to the engine) down and out of the way. I just set it aside in the floorboard becasue there was still a wire harness attached.

Now, using a T15 torx head screwdriver, I removed the two screws that hold the ashtray slide out assembly to the dash. I did this by opening the tray and the screws were located to the left and right. I had to bring the gear shift all the way down. Mine was in there pretty good, but a gentle back and forth pulling motion got it out of there. I disconnect the plug that connects the lighter to the car by simply pushing the little clip on the top of the plug down while pulling it out of the recepticle.

Now, back to the power wire. I pushed it up on top of the underdash panel that remained. Now I had the wire under the dash closest to the radio. I reached back into the cavity where the ashtray was and found that I could simply squeeze the power wire between two trim panels down there and through to the tray area and it was all concealed. The wire that was supplied with the V1 just barely made it from the mirror to the opening where the tray goes.

I decided to splice into the cigarette lighter circuit. I did this for two reasons. One was because it looked like the easiest place to find a switched power source without tearing the whole dash apart. Two was because these cars can be really funny when you start tapping into power wires that weren't meant to be tapped into. By wiring it into the lighter, it is no different that plugging it into the lighter. This is basically the only circuit that they designed to power accessories, so it made since to me that that is where I want to draw power from without setting off all kinds of bells and whistles.

OK, so back to wiring. All I had to do is wire in the 12v+ and the 12v-. Two wires, that's it. These instructions are good for any detector, but I am specifically referring to the V1. It comes with a hardwire "kit" that consists of a little plug box (little plastic black box that allows you to plug the phone style power wire into) with a red wire (+) and a black wire(-) coming out. The red wire is fused. It comes with connections already crimped on the ends, but there is limited space in there and I was not going to use the spade connector on the ground wire so I simply cut both wires about three inches past the fuse holder on the red wire. I stripped about 1/4" of insulation from each wire and crimped new insulated male slide connectors. They usually have an opaque light blue plastic sheath covering a male blade slide connector. Usually you will have to re-center the blade in the insulating plastic because the crimping action will bent the metal blade to where it is touching the plastic.



Now you need to splice into the + and - wires. they are very easy to locate. On the ash tray that I disconnected, there are three wires. One is a common ground that supplies a ground to both the lighter and the light bulb. The second is the switched + for the lighter that comes on with the ignition, and the third is a switched + for the light bulb that comes on with the lights. There are two ways to figure out what's what.

The first is to take a volt meter and find the ground. Do this by attaching the positive lead to a 12v+ source (at the battery) and use the negative lead to probe the three contacts in the plug that is connected to the car. When you see 12.xx volts, you have found the ground. Mark it. Now that you have found the ground, keep the negative lead on you volt meter connected to this ground and use the positive lead to probe the remaining two contacts in the plug. Be careful not to let the two leads touch because you will blow a fuse when they short. Make sure the lights are off and turn the ignition on. One of the remaining two connectors on that plug will show 12.xx volts with ignition on and the light off. Once you have found that wire, double check it by turning the ignition off and looking to make sure the meter goes to 0 volts. Now you have the right two wires.

I mentioned that there are two ways to find the right wires. This is the second way. If you dont have voltage meter, you can find the right wires by following these steps. On a lighter, the outer ring is always the ground. The inner pin at the bottom of the lighter is always the +. If you look at the back of the lighter (through the little window in the tray housing), you will clearly see the two wires that connect to the center and out parts of the lighter. You can track them back through the plug and to the part of the harness that is connected to the car.

Now that we have the + and - identified, we have to splice into them. I decided to use scotch locks. They are these little plastic clips that have metal "teeth" in them. When you fold one over onto it's self and use a pair of pliers to squeeze it together until it clicks, the metal "teeth" bite into the wire and make contact. Now you have a convenient little connector that your insulated slide connectors can simply slide onto. This is what a scotch lock looks like.



Now simply slide the red wire from the radar detector "power box" to the marked + scotch lock that you just secured. Do the same with the black - wire and turn on the ignition with the detector plugged in. It should come on and off with the ignition.

Now, plug the ashtray back in and push the wires back into the cubby hole. Screw the two T15 screws back it to secure the tray. The under dash panel has flat plastic "fingers" that have to slide back into their matching slots for that to fit together properly. Use the four fasteners to secure that panel. The A-pillar panel can be re-set by gently pushing it back into the metal retaining clip at a 45 degree angle (away from the passenger seat).

I have attached saved copies of the connectors in case the links go dead after a while. You should be able to find these in the electrical section of any car parts store. I hope this helps someone down the road.
 

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I need to mount my Escort in my (new to me-18,500 miles) 2006 S500 4matic. I have Escorts in my other cars. I make a thin steel bracket and silicone it right to the windshield. It is V shaped and you have to bend the V just the right angle for that car. The Escort them just slips on this bracket in the same slot the factory Escort bracket would slip into. This works excellent and the bracket never falls off the windshield. It is also very solid. Those suction cups do loose their grip in time. I use tape to mark the position then smear some clear silicone on the back of this bracket and tape it in place for a week or so while the silicone cures.

I would want to find a wire that is hot only in the run position. I leave my Escorts on and everytime I drive one of my cars my radar detector turns on and off automatically with a switched hot wire from the cars electrical system. Not sure where I will find this wire in my S500. I'll have to poke around some. Maybe in the area behind the rear view mirror with the sun roof switches and stuff. Anyone know how to get that apart? If the sunroof only works with the key on that would be the place to find a switched wire.

Rodney
 

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Just curious about your test: is the "speed sign" radar or laser? I ask, because I think that the black dots for sun deflection on top/center windshield might affect only laser (but not sure about that), maybe someone can jump in and set me straight.
 

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Hardwiring a radar detector

If you run the power wire along the headliner and down the passenger side A-post, you can hardwire into the fuse box.
 

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Thanks garyjavo. Great write up. Deutsch - can you let us know what wire you found in the dome that was switched? And ph1958 - what switched fuse did you use?

tks all
 

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SUNVISOR POWER!!!!!!!!!

IS THE FASTES WAY I FOUND AND THE LESS PAINFUL TO THE CAR.


START BY PULLING DOWN THE TOP MIDDLE CONSOLE IS NOT AS HARD AS IT SOUNDS, TAKE OUT THE LIGHT COVERS THE POP OUT REALLY EASY.

THEN JUST USE A SET OF SMALL FLAT SDRIVERS TO PRY OFF THE TOP LITTLE METAL HOLDERS IT TAKES CARE BUT IS NOT BAD.

FOR THE BEST WAY AND SAFEST IF THE RADAR OR CAMERA OR WHATEVER ITEM YOU ARE PUTTING USE THE CIGAR CONECTOR IT CAME WITH JUST PULL POS WIRE, REMOVE THE CAP AND CONNECT IT TO THE SPRING THEN THE NEGATIVE USE THE SIDEHOLDER THEN JUST PUT SOME ELECTRICAL TAPE @.

TAKE THE VISOR CLIP OFF USING A PHILIPS #2, HAVE A LITTLE HOOK TO POP THE LITTLE COVER FROM THE TOP SO YOU CAN ACCESS THE SCREW.

GET DMM AND CHECK THE VOLTAGE FOR POS OR NEG SIDE. POS NORMALY THE RIGHT SIDE

PASS A WIRE FROM THE VISOR CLIP TO THE CENTER CONSOLE BUT JUST THE POS, YOU CAN USE THE NUT THAT HOLDS THE SUNROOF MOTOR AS A GROUND.

ONCE YOU IDENTIFY THE POS SIDE YOU COULD ITHER SOLDER THE WIRE TO IT OR JUST WRAP IT IS YOUR CALL.

YOU CAN USE THE PASSENGER SIDE OR THE DRIVER I RECOMEND ONE ITEM PER VISOR.
 
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