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I have a specific question on fine-tuning the position of the TPS. If anyone on this thread has experience that can help answer, I'd appreciate it. Also, I think the attached page from the service manual may be helpful to others - adjusting the TPS (07.3.0712-152/1).

My question: For the idle side of the circuit: should the switch read idle position only when the throttle is completely closed (i.e. at the physical idle stop), or should it read idle position when the throttle is completely closed AND when it's very slightly open (i.e. just a tiny bit open, right before the physical idle stop?

Context: I'm doing a complete intake refresh, so I have the intake and fuel mixture unit out of the car. I've refreshed everything that's possible, including the throttle position sensor. I understand the concept of what the TPS does - two separate switches, one for idle and the other for full throttle. I understand how to test it with a multimeter and have done that. Going off of the service manual (see attached), my read is that I should adjust the switch in the housing so that it reads idle when it's at the idle stop AND when the throttle is just barely open, right before the idle stop. The service manual says to move the throttle 0.2mm away from the idle stop before the switch goes from 0 ohms to infinite ohms. That's a tiny amount, but it's not 0.0mm.

Anyhow, anyone have experience one way or the other? I'm hoping to get the intake back in the car today.
THANKS, as always.
 

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Correct answer is : "when the throttle is completely closed AND when it's very slightly open (i.e. just a tiny bit open, right before the physical idle stop".

There is a stop screw there. Put a 0.2mm gauge on top of that screw and let the TB close. Instead of resting on the stop screw, it will now rest on the gauge. That's your adjustment point. After you take the gauge/shim off, it will be just the FRM says.
 

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There is a stop screw there. Put a 0.2mm gauge on top of that screw and let the TB close. Instead of resting on the stop screw, it will now rest on the gauge. That's your adjustment point. After you take the gauge/shim off, it will be just the FRM says.
Brilliant! And intuitive, now that I think about it. I think I just needed to write out my question to get my thinking going. Thanks, @liviu165 for the clear advice.

For those that follow me, attached is an image of the feeler gauge placed in front of the stop. 0.2mm is really a tiny, tiny amount. I've adjusted the TPS so that the idle signal goes on right at this point. In other words, ANY opening movement past this point reads infinite resistance on my multimeter.

OK, I think this sucker is ready to go back in the car.
 

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You are welcome. The first picture below shows the flap in its resting position, with the throttle's arm resting on the stop screw. The second picture shows he moment the switch is activated (0.2m above the stop screw). As you can see the flap's edge barely moved.
 

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Those pics are helpful too. I hadn't realized what the holes were for. :) Also, you inspired me to clean up my throttle just a bit more...
 

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The holes are not for switch adjusting purposes. They are there in connection with the vacuum draw for other systems (the throttle body has three vacuum lines hooked up to it and the position of the flap determines when and how much vacuum each line gets).
 
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