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Discussion Starter #1
Ok first post...Sorry to cross post - I put this on the W123 list first by accident.

Im thinking about buying my first MB - 83 300sd.

I've only seen pics so far. Gonna go take a look soon.

The good

Cheap - Really cheap!! (500)
No rust
Everything works- or did.
Interior looks ok

The Bad
Previous owner ran unfiltered WVO (waste veg oil) - current owner said it killed the injection pump
Broken front windshield

Ok so here is my problem - Im a good mechanic - I've done all the work on all our cars over the years - but Im unsure if replacing a injector pump is within my abilities... Ive done a trans in an old honda under a tree once if that counts.

One other thought - maybe the injector pump isnt shot - just the filters and lines are clogged - the current owner says the engine will turn over just not start.

Its gonna be a daily driver - about 40 miles total. In addtion I've owned 2 VW TDI's

What are your thoughts - o expert ones!

Respectfully - T
 

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Always Remembered RIP
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Welcome, to take advantage of all the forum features, please make sure to read the
‘Welcome to the Forum,’ new members please read! tutorial sticky on top of the W126 page, as well as the two DIY stickies.

It will show how to search the forum (3 words min.), and has a link to the Russian MB site where you can run a VIN#. The forum archive has a wealth of information

You have found the best place for information on these cars, the w126, on the english language part of the internet.


Go to the "user CP" button, and update your profile information to show your hometown, and vehicle(s) and put the SD there also, if you purchase it.

Glad to have you here...


There is another resource for W126 owners that may be of help, and while your car that you are comtemplating purchasing is a 4 door diesel, and it was written for 2 door gas coupe buyers, much of it applies to the car you are looking at. I co wrote it back in 1998 but it has been well received over the years.


www.mbcoupes.com (click the buyers guide)




Keep in mind especially, in buying, that you should buy the best condition vehicle you can, at the outset, for old Mercedes.



"The cheapest Mercedes Benz often turns out to be the most expensive in the long run".
 

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Admittedly, I do not know as much about diesel models as some members of the forum do....but I would be hesitant about purchasing as car that has been converted to run WVO or any other alternate fuel source (Except water!! :D)

You are at the mercy of the quality of the conversion and I have heard a few horror stories to that would keep me away.

- Steve
 

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Always Remembered RIP
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ALL the filters and fluids will probably -- almost certainly -- need to be changed, and any algae that is there, needs to be gotten rid of.


It might not even be totally out of the question to drop the gas tank and clean it out, or replace it.


The '81-'85 Mercerdes 5 cylinder turbo Diesel engines are very very tough, (probably the toughest one ever put into any W126) and it takes a LOT to kill one.


The OP did not state the mileage on the car, but in many ways, that is utterly irrelevant, on a diesel like that, especially compared to the overall condition of the vehicle


Hopefully the OP will see fit to post up some pictres that he has of this vehicle.
 

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The IP may certainly be clogged up, usually heat will thin things out, you know, remove from car etc., but I have no knowledge of WVO personally.
But the biggest trick is to keep it (IP) in time. Don't know how to do that.
 

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A Honda trans under a tree, even assuming you used your chest as a trans jack and slid yourself under the car in the mud, is a considerably more straight-forward task than trying to mess with one of those injection pumps. The dealership here won't touch them (they won't even let me buy a rebuild kit for my PS pump, saying the task is too daunting:rolleyes:) and there are plenty of shade-tree mechanics who have tried to screw with the timing on the I-pumps only to render the cars useless.

There is a procedure to doing so, and I could do a write up if need be, but the short of it is DO NOT touch it if it don't need touchin'. Pouring crud into the pump will not "knock" it out of time or anything like that.

WVO, unfiltered is extremely harsh stuff and it most likely would have killed the pump without hesitation. If it even made it as far as the injectors, they're probably dead too. What you could do is firstly drain all the garbage out of the tank as described, flush the fuel lines, clean out the injectors and thier related lines and then clean the pump out.

Take a look in the large fuel filter (looks like, and is the size of a modern spin-on oil filter...don't touch the nut on top) and the little inline return filter to get an idea of how much crap has actually been passed through this most vital system.
 

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the ass actually ran UNfiltered Bio-D through? what a complete and certifiable plonker.

NO ONE CAN RUN ANY DIESEL CAR OR TRUCK ON UNFILTERED BIO-D.

who the hell is this wiseass??? I should like to fit some concrete overshoes on him after running his legs over with my car.
 

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Replacing the injector pump isn't too hard - as long as you follow all of the instructions properly so the timing remains set.

I don't know the current IP prices right now. I seem to recall one being a little over US$1k. Let's say $1.5k to be safe.

Someone who would treat the fuel system so poorly probably neglected everything else. Here's what I would budget as a minimum to get it safely on the road - parts only:

IP - 1.5k
Front end & suspension - $.7
Fluid changes and filters $.2
Tools - $.3
Tires - $.4
Hoses - $.1

So around US$3,200 to get it road safe for parts only. Probably 16-20 hours of work since this is your first time. Personally I would add another $1,000 for other unknowns. This is all assuming that the engine, transmssion, and accessories are all fully functional.

So at a total cost of a little under $5k you can have a road safe vehicle. Not necessarily in good dependable condition, but it will get you home. That is with you doing at least $1.5k worth of labor.

In my opinion this is a marginal project. Any used diesel of this vintage is going to run $6k - 8k to get it in good condition. You are looking at $5k just to get it to where you can find out what condition it is. If you can verify that things like the front end, brakes, and tires are all in great condition then I would personally purchase. Otherwise you can find a better vehicle for this amount of money.

Unfortunately I lost the link but somone on another forum once mentioned that he could find a minimum $3k in repairs in _any_ of these vehicles for sale under $5k. From all I've seen that is a very conservative.
 

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the ass actually ran UNfiltered Bio-D through? what a complete and certifiable plonker.

NO ONE CAN RUN ANY DIESEL CAR OR TRUCK ON UNFILTERED BIO-D.

who the hell is this wiseass??? I should like to fit some concrete overshoes on him after running his legs over with my car.

All commercially produced biodiesel is filtered at the front end (feedstock filtered down to at least 0.05 microns) and as part of the final production process for water and glycerin, so commercial biodiesel in B20 form should not require further filtering , but running unfiltered WVO (non-trans
esterified veggie oil with all of its gooey glycerin and french fry chunks) will kill even the MB 617 diesel motor in short order.

The Mythbusters TV show did a great disservice when they tested the "myth" that diesels can be run on veggie oil. They hooked up a container of clean veggie oil and plumbed it into the fuel system of a 300 SD. To no one's surprise, the car did run on the veggie oil - myth confirmed as they concluded. However, they failed to point out that without filtering the oil down to at least 0.05 microns and heating the oil to approx 165 degrees f before being injected running veggie oil either virgin or waste will kill the motor.

Who knows, maybe the PO of this $500.00 SD watched the show - since its on TV it must be true!
 

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The Mythbusters TV show did a great disservice when they tested the "myth" that diesels can be run on veggie oil. They hooked up a container of clean veggie oil and plumbed it into the fuel system of a 300 SD. To no one's surprise, the car did run on the veggie oil - myth confirmed as they concluded. However, they failed to point out that without filtering the oil down to at least 0.05 microns and heating the oil to approx 165 degrees f before being injected running veggie oil either virgin or waste will kill the motor.

Who knows, maybe the PO of this $500.00 SD watched the show - since its on TV it must be true!
I think I saw that one, I believe the myth was very high mpg at a very low cost. You know, the magic formula.
Because the mpg was less than diesel, that fella in the beret smugly stated BUSTED.
It did run on straight WVO that was filtered, I forget the micron value.
But the biggest problem was their matter of fact statement that there were no modifications to the engine, "and you can put this stuff straight in the fuel tank". They not only didn't do that, they did not mention the necessary heat that sland... pointed out, and you must start and shut down on diesel.

I understand bio is OK to pump right into the tank, professionals mix and filter, you just may want to change out all rubber lines with viton.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well guys I couldnt pass it up - I bought it for 350 - delivered!!!
Now I've got to figure out if the IP is really shot or clogged or can be revived.
Also where is a good place to find the correct procedure for removing the old one and installing a new one - by new I mean pulled from a working car. Ill try and post pictures as I go - wish me luck!
 
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