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98 SL500
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The windshield hydraulic leak fix begins DONE

I called phil at mercedesshop and what a nice guy. I told him I was part of the benzworld forums and he really appreciates all the support we give him. The parts should be here early next week. I am going to take as many pictures of the process as possible and post them. Hopefully we can sticky this since it is such a common problem. One question looking at threads on the other site. I was under the impression that there is only one fluid resevior under the spare. They indicated there is one in the engine compartment is this true?
 

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00 SL500 SOLD, 05 SL600 Sport, 09 Silverado 4x4 LTZ,SOLD '15Silverado LTZ 6.2 8Speed John Deere 318
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As far as I know the ONLY fluid res. is in the trunk under the spare, and unless it has been leaking for a long time or leaked "ALL AT ONCE" you should' nt need fluid, this is really a fairly easy repair, take your time and have fun doing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That is what I thought. I just started leaking a couple of weeks ago and is very minimal. Where would I get the plugs for the lines so fluid doesn't get everywhere?
 

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1987 560SL Gone but not forgotten! & 1999 SL500 For Now
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snowbilt said:
That is what I thought. I just started leaking a couple of weeks ago and is very minimal. Where would I get the plugs for the lines so fluid doesn't get everywhere?
Chris, these part nos. should help. I'd call Phil to see if he can ship with the other parts you're getting, or pick them up at a Dealer. Even MB can't charge a whole lot for plugs (he said with tounge in cheek) Good luck with the project; very interested in seeing the pix.


NOTE: The hydraulic lines must be plugged immediately with plugs part no.129 589 00 91 07, the connections on the catches with plugs part no. 129 589 00 91 11.

Bob
 

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When I did mine, I got NO OIL leaking when I unplugged the cyl. from the lines. JUST DON'T try to operate the switch until you have replaced the cyl. and have it back together. Its a 10 min. job once you get all the trim and stuff out of the way!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well got the parts in today. Do you have to take off the sunvisors to remove the top of the windshield? If so I was going to buy new plastic pieces where the visors attach.
 

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Yes you do. Its the STUFF you have to remove just to get to the cyl. that takes all of the time, Once you get that stuff off its very straight forward, and just think, YOU'LL be the one saving $90+ per hr.YA---HOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!
 

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'03 SL500, '03 SL55, '97 SL320, (2) '91 300SL, (2) '91 500SL, '00 S500 -- all for sale
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snowbilt said:
Well got the parts in today. Do you have to take off the sunvisors to remove the top of the windshield? If so I was going to buy new plastic pieces where the visors attach.
No need to remove visors! See attachment.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Well the job is completed. I took as many pictures as a could to hopefully sticky this since it is a common problem. Here we go from start to finish.
Tools needed phillips screwdriver, 6mm allen wrench, 7cm wrench, T-30 torx wrench, blue locktite.Taking off cover be sure to be easy so not to break electrical plug under cover. Once you get it set aside remove the three torx bolts that secure the latch and cylinder. Then remove cylinder from latch by removing allen bolts unclipping and removing hydraulic lines and removing cylinder from latch with 7cm wrench. Then install new cylinder to latch and hook up lines. The lines and the cylinder are numbered make sure they match. Be sure and use locktite on bolts when re-installing. I didn't unplug electical plug for latch I just worked on it over car. It might be easier to take it completely off, but I didn't want to run the risk off breaking it. You will not get much fluid from the lines but be carefull when you take the cylinder out you will get some out of it. Overall the job isn't bad even for someone like me who isn't mechanically inclined. The second latch will go much faster than the first. The only thing I wish I would have had is one of those bendable screw drivers that you can put different ends on. This would have come in handy removing the cylinder from the latch. Also, be carefull with the hydralic lines and make sure they are under the metal clip where the cover attaches. I put the top up and down 5 times and it worked like a charm. I just want the thank everyone for the input on this especially Bob Terry. Last but not least, it took me about 2hrs to do not including a trip to pep boys for a set of wrenchs and locktite. If anyone wants the large versions of the pictures I took just pm me and I will email them to you.
 

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Chris,
Thanks again for the pix and write-up! Even me, with the dexterity of Zippy the Chimp, can now do this-

Bob
 

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$6.00 No Leak softens the rubber seals

After reading all of the good posts on this topic I would like to know your thoughts with regard to replacing the hydraulic fluid in the reservoir with this NO LEAK power sterring fluid.

Gold Eagle - NO-LEAK

On an earlier post I read where the guy said he had a leak. He removed the stock fluid and filled his reservoir with this product, waited about a week, and he had not had a leak for over one year.

Could it be true that this $6.00 product softens the seals?
 

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Lynn,
I remember that same post...wonder how the guy made out now that some time has gone by.

For me, since finding Dennis Ficken, and having mine rebuilt so economically as well as professionally, I'm feeling less experimental with lotions and potions to fix this design flaw. Dennis sent me my old seals and it was evident where/how they self destruct. My sense is that this leak stopper may make the seal slide easier in the piston for a time, but I think that the best that can be accomplished over time is postponing the inevitable. This could be great stuff, so I'm not dissing it; simply that for $30/cylinder to get better than new, I'd rather take that course.

Bob
 

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Please give me your thoughts?

SunGuy61 said:
Lynn,
I remember that same post...wonder how the guy made out now that some time has gone by.
Bob
Bob,
I respect your opinion and that is what I am looking for from others. I did PM "tennis1" today and this is what he had to say,

How is the NO LEAK working for you ?
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129-sl-class/1301281-hydraulic-fliud-leak-winshield.html

I am suggesting that the Forum consider this product prior to the rest of your seals going out. Why not be proactive and look at it as an adjunct to extend the life of the seals. It may be that the MB fluid is hard on the seals and needs to be reexamined. Or the fluid may need to be changed like Brake fluid due to age. Does anyone know if MB has put a lifespan on the hydraulic fluid?

Give me your thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
To me this is a really tempting idea, and like lynn's I would like more information. The rub is I don't want to risk putting something like that in the system on a gamble. Obviously I have no reason not to believe this because we have no feedback either way. Don't we have any chemical engineers in here? Also, I was under the impression that he only added a certain amount, not replaced all the oil with it. Last but not least, where did he hear about using it or decide that would be the way to go.
 

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Hi Guys,

Since I already have a P/Steering leak and am weighing my options to R&R (DIY or mechanic) I am going to buy a bottle of this today and try it.

I will let you know if it helps with a week or so.

David
 

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Hi Guys,

Since I currently have a P/Steering leak and am weighing my options to R&R (DIY or mechanic) I am going to try this product today and let you know if it works in about a week or so.
 

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Elastomers Specifications

FYI,

Neoprene Fibre, Nitrile, HNBR, Viton, Aflas elastomers are all good with Hydraulic Oil, Mineral Oil, Hydraulic oil / Synthetic oil.
But a hydraulic mixture with a pH>9 does have an adverse effect on elastomer rubber, it will become brittle and the elastomer looses its softness (sealing capability)..
I have never analyzed the Hydraulic fluid PN 000 989 91 03 10.

But perhaps if you add this Gold Eagle No leak to the hydraulic oil it may give better life to the elastomer.

You never know Mercedes would have hated for you never to replace the cylinders after 6-8 years, or else there service department would go bust !!
so perhaps they make an oil that will degrade the seals over time ! ! logical to me if i was a Motor producer

Rgds
Baw
 

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Anyone, please help.

Bawbag said:
FYI,
a hydraulic mixture with a pH>9=alkaline=caustic=base does have an adverse effect on elastomer rubber, it will become brittle and the elastomer looses its softness (sealing capability)..
I have never analyzed the Hydraulic fluid PN 000 989 91 03 10.

But perhaps if you add this Gold Eagle No leak to the hydraulic oil it may give better life to the elastomer.

Rgds
Baw
Anyone,

Does anyone know the lifespan of the MB hydraulic fluid?
Should it EVER be changed? If so when?

It would be great to know the pH of NEW hydraulic fluid P/N 000 989 91 03 10 . If you have pH sticks.
It would also be interesting to know what the year of your car is and the pH of your current hydraulic fluid. For comparison.

In addition if someone knows the pH of NO LEAK that would give us a good starting point to determine if the differences in pH has an effect.
 

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Bob,

Thanks for the plug! I really have to agree with you and Snobilt on adding NO LEAK. From what I've seen on the failure of the seals, it can't work as a long term fix. All of the seals fail due to becoming brittle and splitting. Once the seal has split, it's split.

Is there a chance that NO LEAK acts like adding brake fluid to your engine to soften and swell the seals? (old trick from my father-sell the car quickly) What will it do the seals in the pump and the solenoid valves? These are very expensive parts to take a gamble on, but that's just my opinion...

If anyone is needing their leaking cylinders repaired, I'm still repairing any of the R129 or W124 cylinders for $30 each and $10 flat shipping charge.

Dennis Ficken
16285 S. Chester
Olathe, Ks 66062

[email protected]
 
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