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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
There was a guy that said you can cut the rear speakers out from the bottom (or inside the trunk). It's true. I did it last night. You'd just need to fabricate something for the speakers to mount to and a Dremel. I used wood for the mounting pieces. The beauty of it is that you can't see the wood. It's up inside the deck.
 

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Yes, it is posiible. I did the same thing.
By cutting "from the bottom" means
1. Get in the trunk and look at the rear speaker from the bottom
2. Cut the "Spider Net" out of the original mounting ring. Then cut one side of the ring (red line on the picture below).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
bnz ... ur right! I didn't use the original ring but thinking back .... it would have been easier to do it that way.
 

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3. Now, detach the mounting ring (with the speaker in it) from the rear deck.

4. Next, while the speaker is still there (on other side of the hole), slowly detach the speaker from the mounting ring. The speaker is simply laying on the mounting ring. There are three plastic sticks is holding it in place. I simply broke one of them and it let the speaker go from the mounting ring. There are no screws or bolts.

5. After you separated the speaker from the mounting ring, pul the ring through the hole.

6. Next pull the speaker
 

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Yes, I used the original mounting rings again. I put the rings back to their places and attached my speakers to them facing up. You would need to use one-inch-tall spacers (available at any car audio store for $15) if you want to attach your speakers "nicely" to the back of the original mounting rings.
 

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Another suggestion

Just a suggestion from how I did mine (I'm thinking that the photos were not clean enough to show properly):

Granted, I did remove the rear deck, but I was also installing tweeters and I wanted to insulate for rattles. Either way, on to the speakers:

1. Remove the speakers (however you like - I wanted to keep the ring intact for stability).

2. With a cutting tool, remove the 'grill' portion (spider web) and place the ring back down in the original direction (tabs downward) on a table

3. Take the original mounting rings that came with your aftermarket speakers - place the ring inside the modified ring from the bose speakers. I used liquid nails to secure.

4. Mount the new speakers onto the ring and install back in the location, utilizing the 3 original clips to keep it in place.

Maybe I just lucked out in that the aftermarket mounting rings fitting perfectly into the stock ring as it did. As always - if you use liquid nails or other types of glue, keep the speakers away until it's completely dried.
 

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worst mod in BW history
ML CLK Iridescent Hyundai Accent lol,GoPed Freightshaker & Volvo semi's, c'mawn?
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My sub box is not ported. I was thinking to remove the midrange shelf speakers because I fried one of them and they suck anyway. Do you think it would relieve some pressure in the trunk by simply leaving out the shelf speakers with the Bose grilles covering the holes?
 

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Removing for venting

II would not recommend it. As much as it would releive pressure - those speakers still provide a rear fill that would be very noticible if taken away. Not so much as direct sound, but you would surely think "What is missing? Doesn't sound right" Being blown, I would still replace them. Even if they're cheapo speakers and just dropped back in volume (my rears are -10 dB from front).

What I'm doing (Bracing for the inevitable flaming here) is this:

1. Remove plastic square from behind rear center arm rest (that's all I've done so far because I've been short on time (i.e. lazy)).

2. Remove carpeting from rear side and obtain felt (or other semi-thick material of choice) that matches interior.

3. Using a cutting tool - cut 4 holes (Square) through plastic leaving a 1-2" wide cross in the middle for fabric support. If the fabric is too thin, the cut holes will show and look like shit.

4. Replace rear fabric and add interior matched fabric to the piece and replace.

I've noticed a huge difference from when I removed the piece. There's even a difference between the armrest being up and down with nothing behind it. Relieves pressure and creates cleaner sound.

As for removing the rears all together - keep in mind that I removed the rear door (3-1/2") speakers and did not replace. They're useless, even for rear fill. However you do need something behind you. It creates a balanced soundstage.

IMO.....
 

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ML CLK Iridescent Hyundai Accent lol,GoPed Freightshaker & Volvo semi's, c'mawn?
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bnz. said:
As promised, pics with and w/out a grill
I don't understand why you did that. You didn't cut through the leather did you? I don't get it. Looks cool though, especially if you could fit speakers in there.
 

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No, of course, I didn't cut the leather, my friend. The holes are for letting the sound go through from subs in the trunk. There are no speakers in the rear seat. The grills are solely for covering ugly holes.
 

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But how can sound waves pass through seat batting and leather? I'm genuinely interested in this (not being a dique) because I need to do something similar before my trunk lid explodes, lol.
 

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I'm not sure I really see the problem. I have a sub in my trunk and in no way does it sound muffled or anything from the seats. In fact, I took off the middle part of the back seat so when you pull the armrest down you look directly into the trunk. It really doesn't affect the sound either way. I mean, up (no hole, or "port" to the trunk) or down (allowing "sound" through to the cabin) it pretty much sounds the same.
 

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ThrillKill said:
But how can sound waves pass through seat batting and leather?
Yes, the leather and seat batting will be stopping the sound but not as much (not even close) as it would do metal and carpet on the back of the rear seat.

jtbeche said:
I'm not sure I really see the problem. I have a sub in my trunk and in no way does it sound muffled or anything from the seats.
Good! Than you don't need to modify anything!
Keeping your subs completely isolated in the trunk makes you hear the sound like "from a next room". Is there difference in sound if your speakers play in your room or outside of it?
 

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bnz. said:
Good! Than you don't need to modify anything!
Keeping your subs completely isolated in the trunk makes you hear the sound like "from a next room". Is there difference in sound if your speakers play in your room or outside of it?
Seriously man.....I've been putting sound systems in cars for roughly 15 years so I do know what I'm doing. I think you'd have a different opinion if you ever sat in my car. You keep doing what you do and I'll do my thing and I'm pretty sure I'll be ok.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
JT .... what bnz is doing is letting the sub breathe. A ported box sounds different than a sealed box, right!?!? You should hear a difference when having the armrest up vs. having it down. If you don't, ....uummmm ..... maybe your sub is not hittin' or as loud as you think it is ( not dissin ur sub or anything) .... I have had competition cars and believe me .... I use to put lighters out with the doors open (if ppl are serious about sound, they know what I mean). We're talking 140db.
So in conclusion, the holes should make a big difference. And your talking to a guy that went through 4 different brands of subs and three newer and better amps each time in a year. That was the last car I had.
 

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I agree...it normally should. I understand all of the theories behind it and I was surprised as well. Guess people would have to hear it to believe it. I don't know what to say other than that.
 

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Oh boy....

Here's my unsolicited thoughts....

For loud - it may / may not make a major difference. When you're pushing volumes that high, the rattling takes away from the SQ. (I don't care what you do, there will always be some sort of rattle at 130+ dB - it's a car). I can believe that the difference between the armrest up and down is negligible - it's actually a minor difference in my car. However, the sound quality is better with it down (in MY car). But, to say that there wouldn't be ANY difference requires a hearing loss. Go put a feather pillow in front of your home sub and tell me that there's no difference. Granted, subs produce (somewhat) omni directional frequencies. However, they are still emitting sound waves and those sound waves can be obstructed/diminished by any object.

Who cares if one method is better or not better in someone's car? The point is that it's going to depend on what frequency the sub (or box) is tuned to, what the natural resonance is, how well the car is insulated, positioning of the sub, quality of the sub, blah blah blah... In short - what works for you?

If there's no difference, great! No more modding needs to be done and the car stays original. I could only wish I had that luck.

As I've said before - I'm an insurance guy - not a stereo guy. It's only my opinion.
 
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