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1983 300CD Turbo Diesel, 1997 E320
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24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
To long don't read. See below

After deleting my codes I found out that I only had a one day driving permit to get my car smogged. So after fluids and filters changed I began a 3 Part Drive cycle and manage to achieve seven out of the eight codes within 24 hours right before smog. I filled up with shell premium and a new carb and injector cleaner the day of. After arriving at the smog place the Mercedes was tested by Lennie from Of Mice and Men. After weeks of hard work and tedious reading I watched as the car passed every admissions test only to have Lenny yell at me at the end and accuse me of disconnecting the check engine light. Even though when I left for my drive cycle I verified that it worked. It turns out that it burns out literally right when he fucking started the car.

After being scolded by all fifty of his IQ points I booked it over to Napa and scoured my trunk for something that I could jerry-rig into a dash cluster anchor to pull it in the parking lot. This was only after I spent 10 minutes searching and then testing every single fuse in the car including the drivers box and the backseat fuses. They all came up good. After finding a metal gopher trap in the back of my car I took my Gerber and bent the hell out of the gopher trap to look like the hook I saw on Mercedes sources video. And I pulled the cluster only to find that the light had burnt out. Waited 15 minutes for the pretty chill Napa guy to find the correct light bulb I tossed it in and return to the smog shop to have my test administered by George this time. And the Merc passed.

Feeling confident much like Icarus I decided to drive the car up to Cal Poly Pomona to watch my cousin's graduation.

*To long didn't read*
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While leaving downtown San Diego I heard what was the sound of something like a tire popping from the driver side Tire. About a hundred miles into driving that's when I got a check engine light... after arriving I do an obdII check and get a cylinder 6 misfire not too long after i get a cylinder Bank A malfunction. But since I was driving family up I was not able to stop. So I ended up driving the Merc the entire time running on 5 cylinders. I'm worried I fouled up the O2 sensor and may it just ruined my catalytic converter. Today I ended up getting a misfire on Cylinder 6 and cylinder 1 and then a multiple cylinder misfire code.

How bad have I just goofed and what should I do first? I've already ordered a new camshaft position sensor, new spark plugs even though the ones in it look new. Are new cables in the future?
 

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· Outstanding Contributor , SDS Guru
1998 MB E300TD, 1997 MB E36 AMG, 2001 MB E55 AMG. 2011 BMW 335d
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8,714 Posts
Buy a new coil. On M104 the coil gives power to cylinder 1 and 6.
 

· Registered
1922 Ford T no OBD, no ECU, no SCN
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37,921 Posts
Deplore knows this engine well, but with multiple misfires, common also is MAF going bad.
Still remember when my son, driving ML320 come home with 10 (YES TEN) different codes, yet the engine running just fine.
New MAF from German Star cured it all.
Good part is that with misfire the computer shuts off the fuel to faulty cylinder, so your cat should be good. MIAU.
 

· W210 Section Moderator
1998 E320 base sedan @ 242 kmiles
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11,117 Posts
Was the CEL flashing ? If not, the misfires are not severe enough. Also you have a camshaft position sensor fault. A bad camshaft sensor can cause misfires, however misfires will not cause a bad camshaft sensor fault.

I would check / fix the camshaft sensor issue out first. I say check, because it could be a bad connector / wiring.
 

· Registered
1922 Ford T no OBD, no ECU, no SCN
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37,921 Posts
Not on your diesel, since you have mechanical injectors, but the whole idea about computer diagnose about cylinder misfire is to prevent future damage.
Still remember, what become anecdotal, the older BMW 12-cylinder was having 2 separate engine computers.
So in case 1/2 of the engine had ignition errors, you still could limp home on the other 1/2 of the engine .... at 140 kph.
 

· Premium Member
1999 W210 E300, green, 148k mi. (Feb2016) (sold Sep2018, 163k)
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876 Posts
My older V6 Ford (Cologne engine) has bank-fire fuel injection, not sequential, so it fires three injectors at once and therefore can't turn off a single cylinder's injector. When it fouls a plug (it does happen, around every 4k miles, from coolant contamination: it has bad head gaskets and cracked heads, and I drive it 54 miles a day, every day), either #1 or #6 cylinder will stop firing, and it it continues to misfire under heavy acceleration, the CEL will blink but it's not shutting off the injectors. I know to stop immediately and change the plug, to avoid damage to the cats. AAA brings it to my driveway (pre-paid towing is what I call it; I get four tows per year.)

I generally catch the failing/failed plug long before it gets to a solid misfire, but it's happened.

I had not heard that the MB gas engines have fine control over the injectors and cut fuel in the event of solid misfire. There's a lot I don't know, and I'm asking if that is real, or only something you've heard. It makes sense, but I'm surprised I hadn't read of it previously.
 

· Outstanding Contributor , SDS Guru
1998 MB E300TD, 1997 MB E36 AMG, 2001 MB E55 AMG. 2011 BMW 335d
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8,714 Posts
Yeah it is real. As of ME 1.7 (which is implemented on 1997) up to current cars MB does shut off the injectors in the event of a misfire detection.

My 97 had a misfire in cylinder 2, and when I pulled the spark plugs after a 20 miles drive on the misfire, the spark plug was dry, not wet.

I see this most often in MB with M137/M275 V12 engines and M272/M273 engines. These engines are so stupidly sensitive that if a misfire is detected for a consecutive 3 or 4 revolution, the injectors are shut off.

Kajtek, both of your bluetec will do this too, they will scale back the multiple injector fire in the event of a misfire.

Incidentially, this M104 is not that sensitive to MAF like the later M112/M113 engines as per your son ML320. That's why I suggested the coil first.



One coil powers the colored arrows. He has misfire on 1 and 6. Seems easy enough to check.
 

· Registered
1922 Ford T no OBD, no ECU, no SCN
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37,921 Posts
How much coil cost?
When I bought my "project" SL500 for next 2 weeks I had phone notifications about any similar car hitting junk yard within 50 miles radius.
When SL are rare, they share lot of parts with S-class, so within few days I had set of coils.
I needed only 1, but at $2 a piece for something that looks pretty new, why not?
 

· Registered
1983 300CD Turbo Diesel, 1997 E320
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24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Buy a new coil. On M104 the coil gives power to cylinder 1 and 6.
You sir are good. Pulled the cover (5 out of 6 bolts) used a multimeter to check the packs, boots, and cables. I found out the coil pack for cylinder 6 was bad. Just to verify I swapped the pack keeping the original boot to cylinder 2. I Reset the codes and then bam a cylinder 2 misfire. With the new Plugs and some cleaner in the boots The care is running amazingly smooth aside from the cylinder 2 misfire.

Since I am trying to bring it up to gestapo standards what is the oem or better when it comes to coils and cables.

I ended up Picking up a new cam shaft sensor and a set of spark plugs to install before testing. Plugs and coils appear to be old oem which leads me to think they are original. The owner before my buddy (who did not service the car) used non oem/the cheapest parts for anything he replaced.
 

· Registered
1983 300CD Turbo Diesel, 1997 E320
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24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Was the CEL flashing ? If not, the misfires are not severe enough. Also you have a camshaft position sensor fault. A bad camshaft sensor can cause misfires, however misfires will not cause a bad camshaft sensor fault.

I would check / fix the camshaft sensor issue out first. I say check, because it could be a bad connector / wiring.
Nah it wasn't flashing. I reset the trouble codes when I got home and turned the car on. There was a chime followed by a solid CEL. After New plugs and the swapped 6&1 to 5&2 The Problem followed since it had fresh plugs it was not as pronounced.

The New Cam Sensor shows up Tuesday so I will come back with the results after I Install it even though I have verified it is the coil pack.
 

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· W210 Section Moderator
1998 E320 base sedan @ 242 kmiles
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11,117 Posts
Nah it wasn't flashing. I reset the trouble codes when I got home and turned the car on. There was a chime followed by a solid CEL. After New plugs and the swapped 6&1 to 5&2 The Problem followed since it had fresh plugs it was not as pronounced.

The New Cam Sensor shows up Tuesday so I will come back with the results after I Install it even though I have verified it is the coil pack.
It is quite a coincidence that after your car passes the inspection with no faults, you end up having a bad camshaft sensor and a bad coil pack at the same time .
 

· Outstanding Contributor , SDS Guru
1998 MB E300TD, 1997 MB E36 AMG, 2001 MB E55 AMG. 2011 BMW 335d
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8,714 Posts
OEM would be best, since the original coils lasted this long, didn't they? But then again, they're pricey.

I second kajtek suggestion -- I pull them off the junkyard cars when possible, so I have a couple coils and boots and wires ready to go if any of my current ones take a crap. Can't go wrong with $10 each. Wish I had his $2 each price.

Otherwise, anything non-URO or OEM (and by that I mean OEM as a brand, not actual mercedes benz OEM) goes.
 

· Registered
1983 300CD Turbo Diesel, 1997 E320
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24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
It is quite a coincidence that after your car passes the inspection with no faults, you end up having a bad camshaft sensor and a bad coil pack at the same time .
The Devil owed me a favor.

When I got the car it was in such bad shape. My buddy who sold it to me kept stressing out about the check engine light and how it was always on. So After servicing the car I made sure When I did my Drive cycle It was Perfect. That Includes me Slowing down to <20mph on the freeway multiple times And delicately taking a slow pace to get back to 60mph. I never Broke 3000 RPM for the entire 200+ city and highway miles I did on my drive cycle. For some reason I think it was the napa cheap ass injector fluid I bought to get an extra $5 discount.

It wasn't until After I Passed smog for me to drive like a normal human. I must admit When I reset the codes the day before I Did Worry about not passing and researched the shit out it... That Including a VW inspired Hardware hack I was ready to write and implement. But When I Found out 97 and below are allowed 1 inc I made sure to book it and not risk it. I must admit I'm not above hacking a car to pass smog. All though I think I'm going to spend a little more time at the defcon car hacking village and see if anything has already been done.
 

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· Outstanding Contributor , SDS Guru
1998 MB E300TD, 1997 MB E36 AMG, 2001 MB E55 AMG. 2011 BMW 335d
Joined
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8,714 Posts
If you don't have another spare key for your car, I'd recommend to get them now, before that hodgepodged key fob falls apart.

A master spare key (without remote) is like $30 from the dealer, and you don't need the car to be present. Just go to parts department and order one.

You can renew your key fob by ordering a key shell and swapping the internals over.,,including the blade.
 

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2003 SL 550 AMG
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4 Posts
Wow! Glad I don't have to deal with smog, I can handle emissions restrictions and codes. That is a breeze, misfires can sometimes be a pain to track down. I would swap coils and see if it changes to a different cylinder. Good luck!
 
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