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Outstanding Contributor , Bob's Your Uncle!
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Discussion Starter #1
Finally. After 14 years and 85,000 miles....I have a cracked windshield.
Normally I could live with it, however,I will be moving provinces which will require a safety inspection.

So....what is the part number and has anyone had to buy one lately?
 

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This website shows the various options available for each model in either clear/tint with either green or blue sun strip.

My car had a tinted screen with blue sun visor and ended up buying from SLS-HH in Germany as they had the best price for me.


Bigger box than expected. The screen was manufactured by Saint-Gobain Sekurit same as suppled by MB but cheaper

2607024


2607025
 

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Bummer nobby - how big is the crack? The reason I ask is because you may get lucky and have it repaired, depending on how large the crack is - mine in CLK was a stone chip and resulting 1" horizontal crack which the local guy was able to fix in situ.
 

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Outstanding Contributor , Bob's Your Uncle!
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks, guys.
The crack is about 8 inches long...plus there is a smaller crack upper corner from about 4 years ago...almost hidden by the trim.
PLUS it is sand blasted from 215,000 miles of driving. :)
I now have an OEM price of 625.00 + tax and an aftermarket price of $360.00 + tax. Checking for availability I.E. they need to physically look for it to make sure it exists.
Not a popular stock item.
 

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I don’t have the part number, but being a parts swapper, I’d steal one from a parts car. I’ve got one laying in one of my parts cars I recently “replaced” because it arrived at my house looking like this...


I have not yet made any attempt to seal it in place, but there is a wire that goes around the black tar seal in many cars. You can hook this up to a battery to heat the wire to warm up the tar seal making it easier to “cut” the tar seal with my personal choice of cutter, weed whacker line. However, it it was warm enough for me to get the glass out without electrocuting the wire this past month or so.

But to easily solve the problem mentioned in the original post, I bet that SafeLite costs only about $250 to install aftermarket new glass.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Sorry, nobby. I guess it was original too. I was going to say that maybe someone here knows of a parts car with a good windshield, but Fonzi beat me to it. He could also be on to something regarding SafeLite. Worth checking into anyway.
 

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Finally. After 14 years and 85,000 miles....I have a cracked windshield.
Normally I could live with it, however,I will be moving provinces which will require a safety inspection.

So....what is the part number and has anyone had to buy one lately?
Had the same problem a few years ago. Went to the local Speedy Glass and they ordered a new one which arrived in a few days - not necessarily OEM but nice and clear with a sun strip. No problem putting it through insurance and just paid the deductible.
 

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I had mine done in Tampa this year. Had good luck with a privately owned shop (Mikes) that quotes vintage cars. Many other shops do not have anyone that knows how anymore. The big names like Safelite has only one shop to do a 107 and quoted more money. Safelite does mfg a glass for a 107 and would sell at about 200 pick up only. I think the shop used a Pilkington in my car and charged 345 installed. The tech had just done one before mine and knew it well. Took about 4+hrs he said so labor was a deal. Another shop quoted 100 per hr estimating 4hrs plus windshield. I was happy with my cost and relieved the tech was good. Took many calls in my area to find them.
 

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Windshields are laminated glass, not tempered. Any crack on a laminated glass that runs to the edge of the glass cannot be repaired. Do not install a used windshield. If you have a "star' chip, or even gravel chip on a laminated glass it can easily run to the edge of the glass under any type of flexing or handling during removal and installation.
107 windshields are glued in underneath the bright aluminum moldings running around the perimeter. Urethane is the most common adhesive nowadays, rather than butyl. This is fine, But it makes removal more difficult.
Mercedes-Benz does not make their own glass. They buy it from outside suppliers. Currently, dealers don't stock glass. It is provided to them on a per-order basis by Safellite. There are many good providers of windshields for the 107. PPG, Pilkington, Safellite are more common and well known. I suggest you avoid Chinese glass, such as (phonetically spelled) Foo-yao.
I really suggest you use an old-ish, local, small time operator to install your windshield. Someone who has done it before and knows what the ideal sequence is to remove the outer trim without warping it, and is a better supplier on European glass. It ain't rocket science, but you will benefit directly from an experienced operator.
 

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Outstanding Contributor , Bob's Your Uncle!
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Discussion Starter #17
Thank you all.
Yes, Jeff....I have a windshield "guy" I have been using for, I guess, 17 years. He didn't blink when I showed up with The PIG. Trying to find the windshield has been the issue.
I might have that solved, now.
 

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You guys have me dead set on doing a DIY installation test in Turd Ferguson of my used glass. Turd Ferguson is a parts car I purchased that turned out to be rot free and I made run well today. I think the cost of the butyl tar rope is going to be well worth the experience. (I’ve got another 107 that also needs a windshield, and these used windshields I have will serve a “greener” purpose in a car than a landfill.

Removing the trim is not difficult.

1) remove bottom corner trim pieces. Careful with these as they are not much thicker than aluminum foil. They will probably bend a little, and you will bend them back into shape to re-use them.

2) remove the bottom trim strip. There are friction clips under the windshield, like the top of a door panel. I remove these with a long flathead, right up against the clip instead of bending the trim.

3) things get trickier as the side trim is stuffed under the rubber A-pillar gutter, and it needs to be popped off to AND it is connected to the top trim with a right angle piece of aluminum that slides into both the side and top piece. I’ve removed these along with the top piece, as a set of 3.

That’s all I remember from the removal, but the nice thing is that you don’t have to worry about the cracked glass. It’s actually a more delicate process on a parts car where the glass might be salvaged.

I will try to get pictures and instructions.

Anyone have a recommendation for the butyl roll/rope? Or should I just get whatever my local parts store has?
 

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Oops. It's all been well documented here:
 
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