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The absolute *best possible* cold air intake system for the CL 55. Custom-made, 3.5"

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47K views 76 replies 7 participants last post by  ctravis595  
#1 · (Edited)
The absolute *best possible* cold air intake system for the CL 55. Custom-made, 3.5"

Hello Gents'

I'll be using my Bluetooth enabled ECU monitor reading software for live inlet air temperature updates as I drive -which I'll be able to measure against my last cold air intake system I manufactured before this.

See this video for a live demonstration, monitoring my air intake temperatures, using the factory mercedes sensor in the engine:



Basically what I've done is completely removed the standard intake system and custom fabricated one from the throttlebody all the way to the grill.

This system is designed for the absolute smoothest possible airflow travel by removing the stock restrictions of the small diameter pipe and replacing it with larger 3.5" diameter tubes that do not have any contusions bumps or ripples and are completely perfectly smooth and mandrel bent.

This requires cutting and piecing together a system. The first one I had I designed to have the filters in line at the very front where the intake grill opening ads and you can take a look at these photos and videos here

OLD SYSTEM I MADE

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As you can HEAR, it is amazing, and functions great. The air stayed nice and cool, relative to the outside temps, and the recovery time for the coolant temperature is extremely fast after a wide-open throttle pole and the supercharger heating everything up.


My new system does away with the open element filters and replaces with a completely sealed airbox these are much larger 4 inch air boxes and each one is rated to 450 hp. So the total flow capacity is going to be 900 hp, and I estimate this engine to be approximately 600 hp at the crankshaft. So it will have plenty of CFM for my needs.

The total cost of the system was approximately $500.

HERE IS MY NEW SYSTEM DESIGN FOR MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE, LOWEST IMNLET TEMPERATURES, AND AN AWESOME SOUND + AND VISUAL IMPACT



Image


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#2 ·
This new system is better looking than the previous one. How does it work compared to the one it replaced? Did you do before and after dyno?

How often do you replace the air boxes then? And how? Do they have filters inside or do you have to replace the whole thing?

Are you still having stock TB?

Thanks for sharing ...

EDIT: Never mind about the filter ... I just watch the video LOL
 
#3 ·
Thanks man, yeah I think it looks cleaner then the old version also.
Performance wise, the old one was great. This one, I've not had the time to test, since I cant drive the car right now. The Transmission TCU unit is in the mail, going to eurocharged performance to have their software for quicker shifting flashed on.. So it will be within a week or so until I can drive the car..

The airboxes are aluminum, and are easily opened up by removing the little allen screws on the edges, and inside are K&N style reusable/re-washable filters.
 
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#5 ·
Thanks Slonar!

By the way if anybody needs a parts list or wants help building one I have made threads on the entire assembly process of the first intake with all the parts you can order online... This intake is exactly the same with a few minor revisions and changes (like the filters) so it will still apply.. Feel free to send me a private message or just post here.
 
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#6 ·
new photo added!
 
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#8 · (Edited)
Just online. They are all easy to source. Simple aluminum pipes, and silicone couplers. T bolt clamps. Look on ebay for the best prices. I'll give you the part numbers for the filters if you want. You will have to get the bends right, and make a few cuts of the pipes in a few spots.
 
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#9 ·
Once again you provided no starting IATS, no dyno numbers or track times.. So how is this the best possible cold air intake when you have no starting point data this is the best cold air intake compared to exactly what?
 
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#10 ·
and even though he says he will show you where he got the parts, when you ask he just says "just online" ...... it sucks, i really was looking forward to the BEST EVER POSSIBLE AIR INTAKE on my car lmao

i think he didn't want to post dyno numbers because he realized the air being drawn into the engine is losing its velocity due to the large aluminum piping. that is if he understands physics...
 
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#11 ·
I'm not dynoing the car. It's not finished, and even then I may never bother. It's about getting the coolest posible intake charge, and with this particular design it's been proven to keep inlet temperatures only 10*f over ambient.

I say it's the best design, because it takes the existing designs on the market and improves upon them, by using larger, freeer flowing filters and larger tubes.

Right now, I'm adding a Killer Chiller, which uses the A/C to super chill the coolant in the intercooler. I've split the system and made it so they no longer share the same reservoir.

Now I'm also installing a set of matched ev14 bosch 550cc injectors, and having a new custom tune by Jerry at Eurocherged done, so we'll see how the temperatures are then.
 
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#12 ·
i feel like you're losing air intake velocity speed not only because of the larger diameter piping but because the stock openings on the radiator are smaller in diameter therefore limiting potential flow to begin with....coupled with too large of intake tubing and it's possible your engine might be getting colder air, but it's not getting as much air as a properly designed one
 
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#14 ·
Correct, a smaller diameter with the same pressure, causes a increase in velocity as the diameter of the pipe expands, causing a pseudo ram air effect, as the air rushes in to fill the volume.

More importantly, my system does away with the kinks, and restrictive sharp edges of the stock system. It also produces an amazing supercharger scream, which in itself is worth the work, if not for the performance benefit, and cooling factor.
 
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#15 ·
no i think you've got it all wrong

when the piping opens up larger, it is losing it's velocity

i'm not trying to pick stupid arguments over things for no reason, but would like to take this idea and improve upon it to really build the best possible intakes for our car. i think the answer lies in either getting rid of the stock air intake openings on each side of the radiator, or re routing where the ram air comes in from....
 
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#16 ·
i also think your mindset of thinking a dyno is useless for building a performance vehicle is very far from being true. if you have as much money as you say then you should have no problem testing your vehicle as you do performance upgrades...i mean it only makes sense? what's the point of an upgrade if you can't ever know if it actually did any good.....
 
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#17 ·
It's a reverse funnel effect. And no, there is no other more effecient way to build an intake for the m113k. If you think there is, go ahead and do it, then show what you've made, and prove me wrong.

Data does not lie, the temperatures are low, and there is no heat soak. Iat's return after WOT blasts in seconds, proving the pipes reject heat.


As far as quantifiable performance, my 0-60 times have been reduced by 0.3 seconds due to the work I've put into the car since I bought it. If I could get traction (the car spins the tires up past 45mph if you just mash the throttle) my 0-60 times would be much lower.

Right now my best time is 4 seconds, but I know the car can do it in under 4, with traction.

 
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#18 · (Edited)
It's a reverse funnel effect. And no, there is no other more effecient way to build an intake for the m113k. If you think there is, go ahead and do it, then show what you've made, and prove me wrong.

Data does not lie, the temperatures are low, and there is no heat soak. Iat's return after WOT blasts in seconds, proving the pipes reject heat.

Custom CAI intake temp data driving and WOT proof, 9-12*f over ambient!! The best possible setup. - YouTube

As far as quantifiable performance, my 0-60 times have been reduced by 0.3 seconds due to the work I've put into the car since I bought it. If I could get traction (the car spins the tires up past 45mph if you just mash the throttle) my 0-60 times would be much lower.

Right now my best time is 4 seconds, but I know the car can do it in under 4, with traction.

SICK in-car 0-60 runs (4 sec) CL55 ///AMG Kompressor! - YouTube
Dyno and log you car stock then dyno and log your car after your intake mods and report back.

Short of that you've provided nothing useful.
 
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#20 · (Edited)
blah... i'm not trying to be rude but you're absurd if you think anybody is going to take the time to watch any more videos you post..

and once again you demonstrate this arrogant demeanor that it is simply not possible to build a better air intake than you...i'm a 21 year old college dropout and i bet i can build one that ACTUALLY IMPROVES performance....

did a mod add that little note at the end of his signature on psc? lolol

edit: and again im not trying to be rude, but if you didn't have such an arrogant demeanor you would have an easier time being successful with your designs. i think you might've gotten wrapped up in everybodys talk about how you need colder air and totally forgot (or disregarded) the fact that a very vital factor of a good intake system is the velocity of the incoming air. not just the sheer amount of air that can pass through it. because if you think about it (yes i've done research on the matter) - your intake isn't drawing in any more air than stock (might actually be less due to the loss of velocity) until you're travelling at least 60 mph to create a "back pressure" scenario in which the air is getting forced into the intake (ram air).

the fact that your intake design utilizes the stock air intake openings that simply ARE NOT equal to the diameter of the piping you used not only restricts the possible airflow, but probably slows it down. a true 3.5 inch piping system or 4 inch or whatever the hell you used would work if you didn't limit the flow of air with the stock intake pieces....therefore placing this mod on a scale of possible HP gain at high speeds to LOSING performance from the stock set up....

a heavy car like the w215 doesn't need a hp boost at high speeds, these cars kill once you get them off the line. it needs a system that provides more adequate air flow at low speeds to actually be effective and useful on the w215 platform

cheers, i'll let you know when i'm done with my ***$$#%BEST EVER POSSIBLE AIR INTAKE @#%$****
 
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#24 ·
Watch, or dont watch. Just dont be a retard, and try to dispute FACTS, that I PROVE with my videos.

The velocity of air will be determined by the throttle blade opening, surely you know this, only as much air as the engine is requesting can be ingested.

Neither you, nor I know the exact minimum diameter pipe that the engine will be able to use to get all the air it needs, so I decided to use the largest diameter, to allow as much air to come in. It's like oil. If you have a 4qt pan, you have less circulating, and it heats up faster. Same engine but with a 8qt pan, now you have more oil circulating and it heats up slower. The more volume air, the less heat transfer. That's my PROVEN POINT, my videos show.

This design does everything I've asked of it, and performs flawlessly.


It's true the w215 is heavy, but the supercharged version has TOO MUCH torque off the line. It makes peak tq very low in the rpm range, and my car just spins the tires up to 45+MPH, if ESP is off.

Maybe stick to judging your own car, since you have ZERO experience with the 55k cars, and you have shown once again, you dont know what you're talking about.


PS, no, I added that line at the end of my signature, to illustrate now stupid it is to think I havent added 100 crank HP.
People are getting +50RWHP with just a tune and pulley.
 
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#23 ·
Those are CLAIMS that carboino makes.

Isn't that what you disagree with , claims? I never made any Horsepower CLAIMS.

My videos prove my intake temperatures are excellent, and the pipes are much less restrictive then stock.

End of story. Plus my car sounds fucking awesome, so it's a win win win for me! :D:D

Thanks
Aydin
 
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#28 · (Edited)
well your theory basically states forced induction is useless because "the throttle body only allows so much air" or whatever non sense you were spewing out. and you're correct i NEVER claimed to have experience with the m113k.....time to go outside boy i think you're getting delusional again

and funny you say i should stick to judging my own car but honestly i would have NO IDEA who are you in the first place if you didn't come onto MY threads telling me what i should do with my car and how at that. coming from the dude with the ricer intake.....most of what you've said TO ME can actually be found elsewhere on the internet from things other people said directed TOWARDS YOU. ozan's insecure side strikes again!
 
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#29 · (Edited)
I have learned that hes not worth any kind of long well thought out responses. You don't run into this level of clueless that often. i mean what kind of supposed enthusiast is against measuring the performance of the mods you add. the fact that his cell phone is his *only* measuring stick speaks volumes. Only a clueless person uses end data as a measuring stick without knowing how the car performed stock... hell for all he knows his intake could be making less power than a stock airbox....

We all know how well restricted metal pipes keeps intake air temps down :rolleyes:
 
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#32 ·
just because your intake MIGHT be better than whats available on the market currently doesn't make your intake the best possible design, that's just kind of ignorant to claim so actually

i saw you used to have a 740 bimmer, looks like we have more in common than i thought as that was my last car before my w215. i'm also working hard on getting banned over at mbworld so pretty soon we'll be one in the same!
 
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#33 ·
I studied all the other designs first, and made this one without any of the others flaws.

So yes, thats why I say its the best design for this engine platform. I could have made it however I wanted, so I did.

Thanks
 
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#34 ·
i know what you're saying that you believe your design is BETTER than the existing available products. but to say it's the BEST POSSIBLE is just ignorant. there's a difference between being better than what's already out there and being the best possible.

with your logic people like michael jordan could say they are the best possible basketball player. what happens in a couple years when people better than MJ come along? how could be possible be the best possible if it's possible to be better?

really i'm just arguing semantics with you but i hope you see my point
 
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#53 ·
with your logic people like michael jordan could say they are the best possible basketball player. what happens in a couple years when people better than MJ come along? how could be possible be the best possible if it's possible to be better?
That will never happen. :)

Lighten up people....
 
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#36 ·
Wrong, POWER is not the only measurable criteria.
There is heat transfer (or lack thereof) flow capacity, fit, intake sound produced.. and of course torque and HP, which depend on it either restricting flow, or allowing access to the engine for all the air it wants. Being that my design is a full 0.5" larger in diameter then the other designs on the market, I'm not worried about total flow capacity either.
This intake has proven that with the killer chiller installed, IAT's are now below ambient.
That would not be possible if the design generated heat and negated the performance of the KC.


Thanks,
Aydin
 
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#37 ·
LOL

You haven't added any flow capacity because you're 1 still using the stock throttle body and 2 your intake is under 3" where it passes by the radiator. Everything translates to power air temperate velocity and volume. But of course someone who tunes their car with a cell phone wouldn't know this.

You're funny,
 
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#38 ·
Wrong again.

I use Flashtune v2. I'm actually Eurocharged's first customer to use this new interface on the OSX operating system.
All my custom tunes get written this way.


My android devices, consisting of a Nexus 7 (Tablet with 7" screen) and my galaxy s3 phone, display the Mercedes factory sensors data in realtime (exactly like how you can read the sensor data with the Mercecdes STAR SDS computer)

I just wirelessly connect via bluetooth, so there are no wires in the way.

I have not added any aftermarket sensors, all my IAT data, for example, is pulled from the inlet air temp sensor, located under the supercharger, here.

Image



But you would know this if you had any experience working with these engines.

Do you understand the what you're looking at or do you need me to explain it for you more?

The intake is larger creating more air volume, meaning it's harder to heat up.
I'm not going to keep explaining what you can't comprehend.

It's the same principal why automakers use 8qts of oil instead of 4qts oil. It circulates more volume, and there are many good reasons to do so.

Bottom line is, my IAT's are over 30*f lower then yours.
Lower Iat's translate to MORE POWER, better running, and less wear on the engine.

You can have your opinion, no matter how wrong it is, but don't try to dispute facts.


Enjoy the free education I'm giving you,

Aydin
 
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#39 · (Edited)
Wrong again.

I use Flashtune v2. I'm actually Eurocharged's first customer to use this new interface on the OSX operating system.
All my custom tunes get written this way.

Eurocharged AMG Flash tune v2, DIY ECU writing! - YouTube

My android devices, consisting of a Nexus 7 (Tablet with 7" screen) and my galaxy s3 phone, display the Mercedes factory sensors data in realtime (exactly like how you can read the sensor data with the Mercecdes STAR SDS computer)

I just wirelessly connect via bluetooth, so there are no wires in the way.

I have not added any aftermarket sensors, all my IAT data, for example, is pulled from the inlet air temp sensor, located under the supercharger, here.

Image



But you would know this if you had any experience working with these engines.

Do you understand the what you're looking at or do you need me to explain it for you more?

The intake is larger creating more air volume, meaning it's harder to heat up.
I'm not going to keep explaining what you can't comprehend.

It's the same principal why automakers use 8qts of oil instead of 4qts oil. It circulates more volume, and there are many good reasons to do so.

Bottom line is, my IAT's are over 30*f lower then yours.
Lower Iat's translate to MORE POWER, better running, and less wear on the engine.

You can have your opinion, no matter how wrong it is, but don't try to dispute facts.


Enjoy the free education I'm giving you,

Aydin
You're not moving more air on the stock throttle body and your intake is reduced under 3 inches at the radiator. Why do I have to keep explaining this to you?

I've been building turbo/blower cars for 15 years this stuff you're doing now was novel and ground breaking 15 years ago.

Again you're not doing anything ground breaking new or all that novel.

Dyno your car and report back, run a number at the track and report back.
It's a Shame you're not local i would love to give you a lesson on what a fast Benz looks like:thumbsup:
 
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#40 ·
You mean you pay other people to do the work you can't do yourself. That's okay, just don't act like you understand things that you don't. You only make yourself look silly to those of us who are in the know.

I never said I was doing anything ground breaking. Just good design. CAI's have existed for years, so it's not new at all. Never siad it was. I just modify this car and share my results, how to's, and things with forum members, and I get great feedback! It's very rewarding. But also, It's absurd that you care so much about what I'm up to. I mean I'm flattered you're so interested in my work, but now it's just becoming troll status, since you have nothing to offer. At all. Whatsoever.

But you are free to do whatever you want with your car, I really could care less.

How fast is your 0-60 time? Got any videos? These cars will all do over 180mph STOCK.

I'm never planning on driving that fast, so what I'm interested in is good torque, and maximum efficiency from what I already have. QUICKNESS is important, which I've already achieved. That's my modding strategy. And it's clearly working.

Now it's back to tuning the pressures in the Killer Chiller system.

Have a great day, I know I will!

Aydin
 
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#41 ·
You mean you pay other people to do the work you can't do yourself. That's okay, just don't act like you understand things that you don't. You only make yourself look silly to those of us who are in the know.
If looking silly is your concern you should probably stop posting and making videos that offer no usable data.
I'm pretty sure my car is quicker and faster than yours in every measurable way possible period. My car is built using proven methods and modifications "from people in the know" as you say, and there is no guess work. My CLS will destroy your car in any kind of speed contest.

Lets not compare apples and oranges ok buddy:thumbsup:
 
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#42 ·
flow capacity and the actual flow velocity are two very different (although important) things. the stock design probably provides better velocity than your design to be honest, although yours is CAPABLE of providing more air. the problem with your design is that you're losing velocity by upgrading the pipe diameter(in relation to the stock air inlets on the radiator) and only becomes effective at high speeds when air is being forced into the air inlets
 
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#44 ·
You CANT have more flow velocity, of there is not enough CAPABILITY.
;)

So by incresing the diameter it allows potentially more air to enter that space.

My modified engine calls for more air and fuel, and this is part of the solution..
I just installed much larger injectors (550cc) and had the ECU tuned again for them. The air / fuel ratios must remain in the correct parameters (11:1-12:1 or so) So If I suddenly just dump tons of fuel in, without allowing for more air, the engine will not run right (too rich) bud it DOES run right. Amazing actually. If I did not increase the airflow, this would not be possible.
So you can see, using logic and critical thinking, that my intake does deliver the needed air.

Velocity is created by the throttle blade opening and the engine demanding the maximum airflow at wide open throttle- so that's the only time the demand really matters.

The air IS being forced into the air inlets. That is what forms the basis for supercharging. :rolleyes:

No it, not "only effective at high speeds" because the peak torque stock is 516lb-ft @ 2,650rpm. It's effective at all times.

My system had modifications that include over revving the blower, via a smaller snout pulley, causing more PSI boost, so having everything tuned correctly is critical.

I'll upload a video of my 0-60 in 3.9 sec run. On the street. :thumbsup:
 
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#46 ·
Great. Then that settles it. Have a nice time with your car and your ice dumping.

I dont need and IATs from when the car was stock, because I'm not driving a stock car. I can prove it's performing better then ever, with -20*f IAT's, and have it all on video.

Lets see a stock car to do this


With modifications like intakes and performance parts, form follows function, unless you're not going for the best engineered, and want to sacrifice design for aesthetics. That's not what I go for.

Image


Image



Works for me.

Aydin
 
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#49 · (Edited)
Works for me.

Aydin
we are glad it works for you, there's nothing wrong with that. but when you go around boasting you have an unbeatable design and have nothing to show proof besides some temp readings, you're likely to get flamed. especially with your internet reputation (that you hold so dearly i might add)

have you considered adding side skirts to match the front? i normally wouldn't (negatively)tell people what i think of how their car looks but since you think you should tell other people what to do with their cars maybe you need some of your own medicine

the mismatched body kit reminds me of these ford rangers with the oversized front bumper and uneven skirts and rear

Image


everytime i see your car i think of a ford ranger lmao
 
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#48 ·
your videos are irrelevant and to be completely honest i haven't actually watched a video of yours since the time i told you to stop driving like an asshole on residential streets....just because you think the car runs "good" and can get fast times doesn't mean it's running at it's properly tuned potential, hence why i think i could get faster times out of your own car than you could lol

my non supercharged amg engine is getting low 5 second 0 -60 times.....the fact that you have double my horsepower (according to you) and only losing 1 second on the 0-60 compared to me is hardly anything to brag about...

i'd love to see the look on your face when i take on the project of porting my heads and boring out my block, and getting better naturally aspirated 0-60 times than your "perfectly (cell phone) tuned forced induction car"
 
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