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Discussion Starter #1
I've had a minor leak (a few drops) in the windshield pillar and noticed a greater leak in the drivers right wheel. I was going to milk this situation until I got a round to it by putting fluid in as needed but I think I may have past the point of return tonight.

As I was putting the top down the hard section locked in the upright position and the front section failed to disengage from the windshield.

Then a good amount of fluid (several ounces) came out of the windshield pillar and on to me.

I tried a few more times to get the top down but had to push (not too hard) the hard section down and was able to get the passenger side to lock but not the drivers side.

I can see how (in the owners manual) to get the top back in place and my first fix will be just to fill the reservoir but it looks like I am in for a lot of cylinder replacements in the coming weeks.

I have had a dozen convertibles and this is the most enjoyable to drive but the most frustrating to deal with, mainly because of the hydraulics.

So my question is... anyone else ever find themselves in a similar situation?

I guess I should just figure out which cylinders are leaking and set about replacing them.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Meant to add this too....

So my questions are...

Anyone else ever find themselves in a similar situation?

How did it work out?

Did anyone ever get parts and create instructions for rebuilding the cylinders?

Anyone use power steering fluid (there are several posts saying it works) instead of the MB fluid and not have it bite them in the ass later?
 

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SL500, CL55, E350, E320
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You can order the part for $127 each from mercedesshop (Phil) - brandnew. The part number is 129-800-16-72. Your windshield needs two of them. Probably only one is going bad but the other might follow soon. Thanks to Bob Terry and Jim, I've saved lots of money on fixing it.

You need some star keys and hex keys beside the regular tools to replace it but it was not that difficult.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Looks like I am in for the two in front and at least one in the back and a few liters of the good fluid.

It's tempting to go for the cheap stuff but the risk/reward isn't worth it.
 

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Go for the OEM stuff if you could. The hydrolic oil costs $22/gal here in the US (dealer price).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What tools do I need before I get started?

I have typical craftsman set and other hand tools.

I guess a metric star set would be one. What else?
 

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jef_1_f - 4/7/2006 3:48 PM

What tools do I need before I get started?

I have typical craftsman set and other hand tools.

I guess a metric star set would be one. What else?
It's been a while I can't remember where it was star or hex keys (or both). Besides that, typical craftsman will do.

Pay attention to everything, except the plastic cover that runs accross the windshield. I had a hard time puttting it back.

Overall, it's not a hard job to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the help everyone. It's too late to buy.. I ordered Friday AM from Phil.

Next weekend is the big day (hopefully 1 day) cause I only put the top up when I park it or it's raining.
 

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1995 SL500
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Well listen to this horror story. I had a slight drip over the drivers side visor. took it into the shop to be fixed, they suggested replacing both of them in the front. so I did, when they tested the system after that , the higher pressure now in the system because the leaks were fixed blew out another one in the back. I just got a call that the larger pistons are also now seaping, so I have a bill so far for $1100+ for the smaller one, and the larger ones are $700 each,. looks like I am in for a $2500 to $3000 bill. the bad news is they can not find the large ones and my car is torn apart. And they just closed for the Easter weekend. No idea when the car will be done and no idea what it will cost me. this is the nightmare I was trying to aviod.. And of course the weather is perfect this weekend in the 80's and I am driving my daughters old jetta..
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The top is a horror story no matter how you go about it.

I miss my Mazda RX7 that had an electrical top and managed to go up and latch with just a little hassle for 20 years without failure.
 

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1990 500SL
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yup. it seems if you replace one, it kills another.... its just a domino effect... mine were ALL replaced in 1996. and im just now replacing them all again. i only have two left to replace....... if you take it into Mercedes-benz dealer. they recommend replacing all at once to save on labor.

oh and if you have a early SL, and are still on the original hydralics, expect to replace a Few latch assembly's as well as the hydraulic cylinders.... the small cylinders (latch the rear windows, and latch the soft top boot cover) have been updated with a new part, and are discontinued. the new design DOES NOT fit in the old latch assembly... part number 129 800 00 72 is no longer a valid part number.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Finally got the job done. It's a 30 minute to one hour job if you have all of the tools. I didn't.

Along with the regular stuff, You will need a # 40 and # 30 torx (just buy a set) and a 7mm open end wrench that is very thin.

I bought one at Ace hardware that worked but it would work better if I hit with a grinder or dremel and took about a mm off.

My recomendations?

Buy the little plugs for the hydraulic lines. You'll save time on cleaning up fluid.

Top is working 100% now and I am praying to the hydraulic convertible top gods to not blow out any other cylinders for some time.
 

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1998 mercedes sl500
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i fixed the hydrulic leak in my 98 sl500 by replacing the MB fluid with NO LEAK BRAND power steering fluid last summer and still no leak, it appear the seal get hard and leak , NO LEAK BRAND power steering fluid soften the seal stops the leak i paid MB dealer 650.00 the first time it happened . this time it cost 6.00 . you will need to add no leak brand power steering fluid to the reservoir in the trunk and allow a couple of days to work its way through the system. good luck
 

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1998 mercedes sl500
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that it ..

yes , thats it, i took out enough fluid from my resoviour to add all of the NO LEAK power steering fluid it took about a week to work its way through but when it did it just stoped and that was last summer.
 

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SL500 03, GR.CHEROKEE LTD 01
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TheVpwr said:
I have most of the hydraulic cil. for the top.
Front 129 800 1672 (two) $140.
If you let me know the part # of the one on the back I might have it as well.

Hey Vpwr, facing pillar leak as well... I would appreciate your advising me if you have part no. 129 800 0774 (left) + 129 800 0874 (right) and cost for these.

Thanks a lot

George ([email protected])

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SL500 03, GR.CHEROKEE LTD 01
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TheVpwr said:
I have most of the hydraulic cil. for the top.
Front 129 800 1672 (two) $140.
If you let me know the part # of the one on the back I might have it as well.


Please disregard my previous thread - i will be needing the 129 800 1672 (two) after all - do you still have them?

Appreciate yr reply.

Regards
George

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there is a shop in my city fix any hyd leak by making a new seals . he did fix mine for only about 20 us dollars and it was a very bad leak near to the rear wheel. it is very simple they can make any rubber seal and doesn't cost alot.no need to change the piston.
 
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