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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I had a bad channel on the Becker amp in my trunk. I pulled the liner and saw this:

Tire Wheel Automotive tire Automotive lighting Hood


Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting Automotive design Motor vehicle


I felt around and found a bit of rust under the taillight.

Tire Wheel Bicycle tire Hood Automotive tire


Looks like this is the starting point, entry from under the taillight gasket. I need to pull the taillight. Who knows what it will look like under that. Car lived in PA all its life. It does show signs of a rear repair at some point in time. It runs beautifully, interior pristine. Want to get this handled asap. Car will likely never see salt or snow again, I have a collection of these cars plus real daily drivers to use in weather. But certainly don’t want to leave this exposed. I don’t really weld, fwiw. I am hoping I don’t need to. But I do expect that there will need to be metal removed.

Does anyone have experience on leak points and rust formation in this area? Trunk has a slight musty odor but I’ve watched the trunk under various rain conditions (including when water just got in and wet my driver side floor pretty bad), and the trunk has stayed dry.

Can the taillight gaskets be replaced?

Thanks!
 

· W163 and General M Gremlin
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

· W163 and General M Gremlin
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There is a left and a right gasket (according to my 95 w124s)
You might want to check your PnPs for a replacement
See what years w124s used the same part #
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
There is a left and a right gasket (according to my 95 w124s)
You might want to check your PnPs for a replacement
See what years w124s used the same part #
Interestingly, the Russian EPC doesn’t seem to discriminate left and right for that seal…

Rectangle Font Parallel Screenshot Number

Nor does Pelican who has them for $33.

All the other parts do, like #3,6,12.
Vertebrate Product Mammal Font Rectangle



So is that gasket a common failure point? If so, why? Too soft? Easily abraded? I mean, these cars seal quite well elsewhere with original seals. Taillights aren’t an open/close or wear type item. So what causes them to go bad?

thanks!!
 

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I would still inquire with them, to confirm.
 
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1989 W124 260E
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Tail light might not have been locked up in to the body, and water leaks past the seals ...first thing i did on my W124 was to pull out the tail lights and coat the seals with silicone grease
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Tail light might not have been locked up in to the body, and water leaks past the seals ...first thing i did on my W124 was to pull out the tail lights and coat the seals with silicone grease
What do you mean locked up?

I will pull the taillight as soon as I have time.
 

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JHZR2 What you find is that over time seals like these , and the same with most seals, the seals squash down . So the fluid - water can leak through ,,in your case , in to the trunk. Tail lights are held in place by nuts on the reverse .You wont see the fixing nuts until you remove the rear plastic cover 2x butterfly retainers And in you case i will bet my cotton socks that by now your retaining nuts will be loose. Looks like a good clean up in side will be your next job . Remove the rust .But go steady dont poke a hole through it ..remember to use a good rust killer .You are lucky in one way its not a load bearing area so you can use filler once rust is taken care of .
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
JHZR2 What you find is that over time seals like these , and the same with most seals, the seals squash down . So the fluid - water can leak through ,,in your case , in to the trunk. Tail lights are held in place by nuts on the reverse .You wont see the fixing nuts until you remove the rear plastic cover 2x butterfly retainers And in you case i will bet my cotton socks that by now your retaining nuts will be loose. Looks like a good clean up in side will be your next job . Remove the rust .But go steady dont poke a hole through it ..remember to use a good rust killer .You are lucky in one way its not a load bearing area so you can use filler once rust is taken care of .
That makes sense. I’ve never really had a car that this mattered on. That includes much older w123 cars. But I’ll investigate and repair from there. My biggest concern is that water seeped into the pinch weld next to the entry point. There is crumbled metal from that sitting next to the weld. Not sure if I will/need to build that back up; certainly want to seal and deal with it properly.
 

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A good rust killer brushed inside the seam . You do this after you clean out as much old paint and rust that you can .paint on the rust killer a few times ...It will only continue to rust if air gets to it . The seam will need covering over well after you have finished .And as for rust killer , dont buy one with acid in it,, with that type you have to nutralise the rust killer with water after . and water will only start of the rust process all over again. because you wont be able to get it out of the seam . .good luck .
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
A good rust killer brushed inside the seam . You do this after you clean out as much old paint and rust that you can .paint on the rust killer a few times ...It will only continue to rust if air gets to it . The seam will need covering over well after you have finished .And as for rust killer , dont buy one with acid in it,, with that type you have to nutralise the rust killer with water after . and water will only start of the rust process all over again. because you wont be able to get it out of the seam . .good luck .
The issue with sealing it with anything is if moisture can get in… alternate route. Diffusion, whatever, then it’s an even more ideal environment. Treating as much as I can and then using a rustproofing oil may be better as it willl creep and seal. Even if I leave it messy under there, wet with the stuff, I don’t think it will matter. May spray the whole area under the side covers with woolwax or another lanolin product.
 

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Rust converter will turn the loose red rust into a hard black non-oxidizing material. Then topping withpor-15 or an epoxy sealer will keep all oxygen away.
An oil is just going to trap the active rust in and allow it to continue to rust.

rust converter spray https://www.amazon.com/GEMPLERS-Converter-Primer-Spray-Aerosol/dp/B01N9ORBE3/

After the above, then woolwax would be a good topping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
An oil is just going to trap the active rust in and allow it to continue to rust.
Not if done right. I agree one should convert, or ideally remove and replace, any metal showing rust. It’s the unseen spots that need oil.

Oil doesn’t trap moisture. Actually paints and coatings do that. A properly formulated creeping oil is well proven to prevent rust and protect metal.
 

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I've been using Carwells T32 (CP90) (oily spray) for eons - in door cavities, boot, undercarriage, etc.
Works to prevent rust attack - especially in and around the drainage holes where things can get clogged up.
Of course, you want to clean the area first, before applying.
 
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