Mine (and the clock) has been tilted a bit since I bought it a few months ago. Finally got the cluster removal tools to replace some lights, and saw that the back cover of the cluster has to come off to get to the tach/clock. The cover is held by really small torx screws, a size I don't yet have a driver for. But once that is off, hopefully it's just another couple of screws that need loosening, rotate the tach and clock, and then re-tighten.
The bad news is, none of the gauges / clock can be turned.
I took my cluster apart tonight after buying a set of smaller Torx bits. The main screws on the back of the cluster are T10, but the ones under the back black cover are T9's.
The bad news is, none of the gauges / clock can be turned. I.E., the tach face is a thick plastic-sticker-like item. It could be possible to "carefully" peel it off and re-apply it, but I'd be scared of curling, bending, cracking or even ripping it. You can see mine is definitely not aligned correctly. I doubt it "slipped" into that position. It's also hard to believe it was originally put on like that. The clock is almost correct, but a lot harder to see it's not quite correct.
I have some more pictures and will make a DIY out of them, because it's really easy to take this apart, with some ingenious on-board connectors.
Who are you going to believe ... me or your own eyes? (Sorry -- an old Marx Bros joke.)
Yeah, I was a little disappointed too.
As you see, there are 3 screws that hold the Tach in place, at clock positions ~11.5, 2 and 4, and no provision for rotating. The plastic faceplate has, just to the right of the top screw, a piece that extends past the circular perimeter, with a tiny hole. I thought this was used in order to go over a plastic pin, aligning the faceplate, but I couldn't find any pin. The clock is similar. with its protrusion at 12, and again no pin.
I think the best way to remove the faceplate would be with a razor blade. I don't think it's attached all the way to the center, but mostly along the perimeter. Another concern would be that it would not stick back on sufficiently.
Maybe one day while going up to Ft. Campbell from ATL I could take yours apart for you?
I had the same turned tach problem. I followed the excellent guide provided by MB220D300D to disassemble the cluster. After playing a little with the label/sticker, I realized it is thicker enough to be separated from the plastic gauge. So, using a butter knife, and with patience, very very slowly I separated the sticker completely, and turn it carefully to the correct position (or sort of). After that, I just gently pressed it against the tach. Finally I just reassembled all for testing. All OK!
I'm attaching a picture, so you can see better this procedure..
This is good to know but isn't this the movement of the gauge that is ultimately having the problem and not the physical silk screen that is turning?
I don't know why the needle would not come to full rest unless it was disturbed but maybe pulling it from the movement and resetting it would be the proper method??? Of course, calibration is then an issue. I don't know, just an idea...
This specific problem is that the gauge looks obviously tilted counterclockwise a little ("X100" label at the "five" hours position), and the needle is pointing near the 5 mark (500 rpm) with the engine turned off.
The tach needle doesn't have anything to rest on, (unlike the needles for oil pressure or gas level, etc.), so in my case, after rotating the sticker, the Tach gauge is still in the same place. As MB220D300D pointed correctly, there is NO WAY to rotate the entire gauge. Is attached to the cluster with three torx screws.
The difference after this fix is: When the engine is off, now the needle is pointing in the 0 (zero rpm) mark, instead of the 5 mark (500 rpm) and the face looks straight ("X100" label at the "six" hours position). No recalibration was necessary.
See attached picture of a spare cluster I bought on e-bay for the lens only. I noticed that the Tach was crooked on it as well. I am not sure what year or model the donor was but there seem to be enough of them to make one wonder about "The best or nothing". By the way I did buy a set of Torx heads and a driver at Harbor freight for about $10 or less so I could remove the lens cover. FYI, you have to remove the "screens sheets" for the idiot lights on both sides before removing the lens cover.
That HAD to have come from the factory like that...a sticker just rotating because it got hot just doesn't jive. And, what others are reporting is that they are all turning counter clockwise so the needle aligns with the 500 just means what, the sticker is heavier on that side???
I think this was some lousy batch that was poorly assembled from the factory. For that to be installed in a car and get out the dealership door is amazing.
Either way, glad it was easily rotated the correct way for you.
Mine is just like QuakerCity's photo as well. I find it irritating but not enough to risk taking apart the cluster.
I agree with Silver Benz that it seems unlikely the sticker could just rotate round by itself. It must have a been a factory fault. I can't believe this passed Mercedes quality control especially on their most prestigious car. Someone must have had a bad day at the factory when applying the dial face! :wink
Is it limited just to this cluster type with the hexagonal shape digital display (as above picture)? Does anyone have a crooked tach with the earlier smaller twin digital display speedo cluster?
Mine has the same problem and it maddening! That this could pass QA is really sad. At least I know how to fix it now if I'm brave enough... I've been searching for weeks for "rotate tach" or "rotated tach or tachometer", bt never thought to look for "turned tach".
Now I gotta go find MB220D300D's post about cluster disassembly...
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