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2001 R170 SLK230K 6M Sport
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Discussion Starter #61
Oh man, that is bad news, this usually happens when the tensioner doesn't get reset in the correct way after removing it

In your case i guess it was running fine, very curious what caused it

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I didn't touch anything there. I have no idea why it did this all of the sudden.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
Anyone have the WIS pdf for R&R cylinder head and timing chain?

@Ndrmini @Subby_
 

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Anyone have the WIS pdf for R&R cylinder head and timing chain?

@Ndrmini @Subby_
I used a youtube series for my diy engine rebuild:

This guy is spot on, has all the important bits covered like torque specs etc, it all matches what is in wis (check out his other vids for the other bits to)


If your wis stopped working, roll back the date to 2008, disconnect from the internet, and put java security on low in the java settings





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Discussion Starter #64
Just bought a used cylinder head as it was cheaper than to piece together mine.

A new (used) camshaft alone is $150 plus all the work to get it right.
 

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1998 SLK 230
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the only thing I can think of is something to do with the valve spring jamming/binding (maybe with high rpm) and with that causing pressure to snap the cam as it rotated?

I've had something similar happen in another car I own - in my case, it snapped the rocker arm and the lifter (it didn't break the cam). In that engine, it bent the valve and the valve hit the piston :(
 

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Discussion Starter #66
It appears that the upper plastic portion of the tensioner guide broke and wedged itself between the tensioner and the chain, causing undue pressure on the intake can causing it to break.

It looks like a botched timing chain job from the previous owner, as the master link in the chain was mushroomed very poorly. I also just noticed there are six oil pan bolts missing too.
 

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Thanks a lot for the update!

A typical case of going to "that 1 mechanic who does it cheaper"


A good example how new guides looks like vs a 20y+ old guides, the front engine cover needs to come off to replace them, it's a bit more work but what happened to you makes me glad I did the extra effort (the new guides are febi, not oem)


Pictures from my engine:




I tried replacing the guides without taking the front cover off but it is impossible and while that cover is off i also did the oil pump tensioner just for piece of mind


How does your engine head look like? Any bent valves?

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Discussion Starter #68
Thanks a lot for the update!

A typical case of going to "that 1 mechanic who does it cheaper"


A good example how new guides looks like vs a 20y+ old guides, the front engine cover needs to come off to replace them, it's a bit more work but what happened to you makes me glad I did the extra effort (the new guides are febi, not oem)


Pictures from my engine:




I tried replacing the guides without taking the front cover off but it is impossible and while that cover is off i also did the oil pump tensioner just for piece of mind


How does your engine head look like? Any bent valves?

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Its junk. Two bent valves, the guides were damaged and the cam journal where the break occurred is damaged too.

I bought a used head with 57k miles on it to replace the damaged one with.

I'm going to take the time to splice in my speeduino harness during this time too, as some of the connectors are difficult to get to.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Just finished disassembly. Wow. That's all I can say. Whomever was in this engine before me was a jackass.

Lots of orange RTV, I found two of the oil pan bolts wedged between the starter and the block, and to make things worse, the pin holding the retreating tensioner is stripped out.

Just kill me now.
 

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Just finished disassembly. Wow. That's all I can say. Whomever was in this engine before me was a jackass.

Lots of orange RTV, I found two of the oil pan bolts wedged between the starter and the block, and to make things worse, the pin holding the retreating tensioner is stripped out.

Just kill me now.
I'd have to agree, any evidence of what else the jackass worked on? Pity , there are so many R170's with engine's untouched except for maintenance items.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
I'd have to agree, any evidence of what else the jackass worked on? Pity , there are so many R170's with engine's untouched except for maintenance items.
All of the covers concerning the clutch are missing, both rear lower control arm bushings were hacked in and I had to replace both knuckles.

The rear o2 had a mil-eliminator on it due to a failed fuel filter/regulator that the ecu couldn't manage a steady fuel trim. So it set trim and catalyst inefficiency codes.

I think I just opened a can of worms.

Light side though, I just purchased $1800 worth of Rennsport cams, a 92mm TB for an LS that I'm adapting and wiring in my speeduino.
 

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All of the covers concerning the clutch are missing, both rear lower control arm bushings were hacked in and I had to replace both knuckles.

The rear o2 had a mil-eliminator on it due to a failed fuel filter/regulator that the ecu couldn't manage a steady fuel trim. So it set trim and catalyst inefficiency codes.

I think I just opened a can of worms.

Light side though, I just purchased $1800 worth of Rennsport cams, a 92mm TB for an LS that I'm adapting and wiring in my speeduino.
It will still be a good project when you finish . I'd check any previous work that may have involved single use bolts - these are a tempting area for shonky mechanics to cut corners by reusing the old bolts. This is especially important if your going to up the power output.
 

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1998 SLK 230
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again i have copped it in another car where they decided to re-use the headbolts when replacing the head gasket - they are one time use bolts ONLY. head gasket didnt last long but long enough to be out of warranty
 

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Discussion Starter #74
again i have copped it in another car where they decided to re-use the headbolts when replacing the head gasket - they are one time use bolts ONLY. head gasket didnt last long but long enough to be out of warranty
Those and the exhaust cam bolts. I just had to order those too.
 
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Discussion Starter #75
New head is all cleaned up and installed with the exhaust manifold and turbo on it. I had a hell of a time trying to figure out why every time I pinned the intake cam, I'd stretch the chain over to the exhaust side and all of the sudden I'd be 40 degrees out of time.

Someone at the breaking yard removed the cam phaser instead of the exhaust cam sprocket to remove the timing chain and didn't reinstall it properly. Good thing I caught it as the three "tangs" weren't anywhere near their respective receptacles. This would have been disastrous. This was a pain in the ass to reassemble properly and right now the car still isn't timed properly. I can't seem to judge the 20 degree/pin hole alignment properly as I'm blind or something.

Aside from that, I accidentally located a very poor repair to my front bumper cover. I meant to step onto my step stool and caught the bottom lip of the bumper cover instead, ripping the lower portion right off. It appears that it was secured using glue, bondo and portions of a bumper cover screwed to it from another car. I also broke my grille, so I'm just going to make one from expanded aluminum and paint it black. It was already damaged when I bought the car, so no great loss there.
 

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I remember my first time when i tried putting the intake camgear assembly on when testing some agressive camshafts... IT AIN'T EASY!!!!

The lockout pins can be off by a very tiny bit, that is normal, if the engine head has been machined to much you'll also end up with it being a bit out of timing (a friend had the camshafts out of timing by 9 degrees after resurfacing the engine and the head, this was with a new chain)

9 degrees is still good according to wis, 10degrees is the limit

I hope you'll have it back up and running soon

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Discussion Starter #77
A better picture of the turbo up pipe assembly. It was easier to install the cylinder head with the assembly fitted to the head than to install it after the head was installed.
2641762
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Ok, got the cams in and now the valves touch on the intake side? I can pin both cams and the crank is at 20 deg. ATDC and I can only rotata through about 50 degrees of rotation before valves touch on the intake side. Could the cam phaser be out of time?
 

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Discussion Starter #79
I figured it out. Things to remember when timing this engine:

1. Make sure you are turning the engine in the direction of rotation when setting the crank to 20 deg ATDC. If you don't there WILL be slack in the chain on the intake side no matter what you do.

2. ENSURE the intake camshaft VVT actuator is in full ADVANCE when you pin the camshaft to the head. The locking tang will be on the right side of the slot when looking down from in front of the engine. If it's in retarded position, it can make the intake cam up to 20 degrees (two sprocket teeth) retarded. The best way to ensure this is correct is to set the crank to 20 deg ATDC, pin teh intake cam to the head and then use the nut on the front of the camshaft adjuster to rotate the adjuster to full advance by turning it clockwise. It's approximately 1/4" travel from retard to advance. Dont force it as the nut is only torqued to 45 ft.lbs. If you don't do this correctly, the valve WILL hit the pistons. This is also especially crucial for those with aftermarket camshafts like myself, where the lift and duration are much more than the factory cams.

3. Installing the tensioner with my turbo installed is a PITA. I think I birthed many new expletives in the last 3 hours.
 

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Indeed, aftermarket cams are tricky on these, mine didn't even come with the pin alignment hole, so i had to mark the camgears instead

Also pay great attention if the lobes clear the head, on mine I have to remove some material on the exhaust cam side so the lobes would clear the engine head

There also might be some lifter problems, they run low on oil pressure due to the lower base diameter of the sport cams and they don't line up with the head oil feed hole (on mbslk they had the same issue)

My car idled like absolute +&*= with them with a crazy loud exhaust note, i removed the exhaust sport cam, still crappy idle (I blame my light flywheel for that) so right now i'm running the oem cams again, sold the sport cams and awaiting a less agressive intake cam (currently being made)

The specs of the sport cams i got: (and sold)
Intake:
Degree :: 266
Spread:: 120 - 100
valve stroke:: 10.4
stroke in TDC :: 0.2-2.4
valve timing:: 13/73 - 33/53


Exhaust:
Degree :: 262
Spread:: 110
Valve Stroke:: 10.4
Stroke in TDC :: 1.1
Timing:: 21/61 - 61/21



Lobes touching the head:




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