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2001 R170 SLK230K 6M Sport
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Discussion Starter #1
Oh man, I started it today. First thing first though...

I have mistaken a sensor for oil pressure. I need to tap into an oil pressure sensor port for the turbo's oil supply. Is there anything I can tap into for this as SLK 230s don't have an oil pressure sensor? I'm thinking I may have to tap into the oil filter cap and pull pressure from there.

Supercharger is removed, overdrive crank pulley is removed and I have sized a belt to connect the alternator back to the crank utilizing the original tensioner. The size is 6PK945. You will not use the upper idler. Install the belt as it if it were going on the outside of all the pulleys, like a triangle. The tensioner pulls perfectly.

Below is how I'm going to construct the turbo up-pipe, but rotating the T3 flange 90 degrees so it faces outboard just under the #1 cylinder exhaust port. I'm using 2.5" stainless exhaust pipe and will be cutting lobster bends. I have a TIG welder, so everything should be pretty. FYI: Mosselman turbo manifolds DO NOT WORK with the SLK. The compressor housing contacts the inner fender.

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The next pics are of the cold side of the intercooler. The MAF must be moved upstream so that the BOV can be installed between it and the throttle body. If you remove the hard plastic pipe from the inlet side of the MAF, the MAF can be clamped into the rubber elbow on the intercooler. You WILL need to remove the plastic cover from the wiring harness to get enough slack to reconnect the MAF. This not only makes it easier to access the BOV, but will alleviate stalling when boost is bled off quickly at lower RPMs. The yellow wire is a MAF clamp set to 4.7v to stop previous boost cut with my ported/compound overdriven M45.

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The finished result will require the use of a 2.5" diameter BOV tube with one 2.5" silicone elbow to connect it to the throttle body duct.

Also seen in this picture is my pre-facelift fuel rail swap/VAG adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
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The black "X" is where I'll be drilling a 9/16" hole to tap with a 3/8" npt tap and installing a 3/8" npt fitting with a 5/8" hose barb. This will be the turbo oil return.


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Lastly (for now) this is the turbo I'm installing. T3/T4 .64 a/r. Should be good for around 20-24 psi.

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More to follow.
 

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1998 SLK 230
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excellent work!

you are lucky your car is LHD. the RHD cars have the steering box right under the exhaust manifold - no room to work at all!
 

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Nice work! For oil pressure: there should be a free port not far from the chain tensioner on the exhaust side of the engine, it's not easy to get to tho

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
 

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SLK R170 230k 1998
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I have done a turbo swap, with a Garret GT28.
Its still a work in progress...after 3 years. mainly due to work and family commitments, and of course trying to work around the ECU!

You can tap the oil feed from a port just below the exhaust manifold. It is hard to see it from above, unless the exhaust manifold is removed.
For the oil return, makes sure its not too high up, or too long, there would be clearance issues.

I'm actually using the mosselman turbo manifold, and my car is a RHD. Like you had said, the clearance with the inner fender can be an issue, but with the internal wastegate, not with the compressor side of the turbo. I had to relocate it (this took up a lot of time, and ended up with a frankenstein looking bracket).

Your turbo does not require water, so that makes life easier.

How are you going to tap the oil return to the pan? it was not possible to just remove the oilpan, i had to get my mechanic to lift off the engine to remove the oil pan (mine is a pre-facelift though, not sure if it would be the same issue with the facelift cars)

If you want, i'll try to take some pictures tomorrow of the oil feed and return.
 

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2001 R170 SLK230K 6M Sport
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Discussion Starter #5
I have done a turbo swap, with a Garret GT28.
Its still a work in progress...after 3 years. mainly due to work and family commitments, and of course trying to work around the ECU!

You can tap the oil feed from a port just below the exhaust manifold. It is hard to see it from above, unless the exhaust manifold is removed.
For the oil return, makes sure its not too high up, or too long, there would be clearance issues.

I'm actually using the mosselman turbo manifold, and my car is a RHD. Like you had said, the clearance with the inner fender can be an issue, but with the internal wastegate, not with the compressor side of the turbo. I had to relocate it (this took up a lot of time, and ended up with a frankenstein looking bracket).

Your turbo does not require water, so that makes life easier.

How are you going to tap the oil return to the pan? it was not possible to just remove the oilpan, i had to get my mechanic to lift off the engine to remove the oil pan (mine is a pre-facelift though, not sure if it would be the same issue with the facelift cars)

If you want, i'll try to take some pictures tomorrow of the oil feed and return.
Since our oil pan is constructed of somewhat thicker aluminum I'm going to do the following.

Miata guys do this

1. Leave old oil in pan.
2. Grease flutes (to collect chips) on a 9/16" drill bit and drill hole.
3. Grease flutes (to collect chips) on 3/8" npt pipe and tap the hole.
4. Thread a 3/8" npt to 5/8" hose barb fitting into hole.
5. Drain old oil and flush with some cheap oil to remove any chips that may have fell inside
6. Use a 5/8" diameter hose to connect to the drain side of the turbo cartridge.

Also, I'm moving the MAF back to original position, did some homework and I was flawed in my thinking. The MAF needs to be after the BOV.

Thanks for the info concerning the oil feed, made life much easier. The pictures would help imimensely.

As far as your ECU problems, are you still running the diverter valve? I've found if the valve is connected electrically and not mechanically, the engine runs fine, even without having a overboost code unless you boost over 11.5 psi. If you push boost over 12 psi, it would set a CEL, but still will run fine. Have you MAF and MAP clamped your car? Clamp the MAP at 3.7v and the MAF at 4.7v and you shouldn't run into any problems.
 

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2001 R170 SLK230K 6M Sport
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Discussion Starter #6
This one right?
2635939
 

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1998 SLK 230
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That plug from memory drains the block of coolant? I remember something similar when I replaced the coolant years ago
 

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2001 R170 SLK230K 6M Sport
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Discussion Starter #8
That plug from memory drains the block of coolant? I remember something similar when I replaced the coolant years ago
I pulled the plug and it's oil behind it.
 

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W202 230K Sport manual & a few non Merc's
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That plug from memory drains the block of coolant? I remember something similar when I replaced the coolant years ago
Edit: Eightrac, found it.

Subby, do you recall seeing a port on the exhaust side hidden behind the S/C? I ask because the early C-Classes and late W124 E-Classes (both M111's) had an oil light switch and it was located there.

W124 E220 M111
2635965
 

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2001 R170 SLK230K 6M Sport
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111 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Edit: Eightrac, found it.

Subby, do you recall seeing a port on the exhaust side hidden behind the S/C? I ask because the early C-Classes and late W124 E-Classes (both M111's) had an oil light switch and it was located there.

W124 E220 M111
View attachment 2635965
YESSSSS. I just purchased an adapter to fit a 1/8" npt fitting into that 12mm x 1.5 hole. Spendy little bastard @ $14 US.
 

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2001 R170 SLK230K 6M Sport
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Discussion Starter #11
I think I may take a "rubbing" on paper of the exhaust manifold flange to possibly make tube steel turbo manifolds in the future.

Also, waiting on parts I ordered two weeks ago suuuuuuucks.
 

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2001 R170 SLK230K 6M Sport
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Discussion Starter #12
Up-pipe completed. It took 8 hours to cut, weld and wrap. Hard part is done though.

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SLK R170 230k 1998
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A bit late reply, you already found the oil feed.
Your custom turbo manifold looks excellent.

I made a mistake of making the oil retrun too long, so it was hitting the body intially.
SLK Turbo old oil return .jpg

This is the clearance issue with the mosselman exhaust manifold, the turbo per say clears, no issue even when engine is started, just loads of work to relocate the internal wastegate.
20200606_083737.jpg 20200606_083744.jpg


Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18 Show Content
SLK Turbo Manifold Steering Box Clearance.jpg
 

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2001 R170 SLK230K 6M Sport
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Discussion Starter #14
A bit more progress today. BOV done. Fabricated a mount for the front of the turbo that supports the boost controller also.

I'm now waiting on the air filter, a fitting for the oil feed, a silicone boot and a short length of 2 1/4 boost tube plumbing.

It's beginning to look like a factory install.

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2001 R170 SLK230K 6M Sport
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Discussion Starter #15
A bit late reply, you already found the oil feed.
Your custom turbo manifold looks excellent.

I made a mistake of making the oil retrun too long, so it was hitting the body intially.
View attachment 2636263

This is the clearance issue with the mosselman exhaust manifold, the turbo per say clears, no issue even when engine is started, just loads of work to relocate the internal wastegate.
View attachment 2636264 View attachment 2636265


View attachment 2636266
Aside from the turbo clocking issues, what else have you run into? I know from experience the ECU (especially mine being a Siemens unit) can be an issue. Do you still have the diverter valve connected electrically? Any boost cut things???

I used to run into boost cut with my previous setup when the diverter valve was installed. I did find that the ECU only used it to boost cut though and not reduce throttle, fuel or timing in any way.
 

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Aside from the turbo clocking issues, what else have you run into? I know from experience the ECU (especially mine being a Siemens unit) can be an issue. Do you still have the diverter valve connected electrically? Any boost cut things???

I used to run into boost cut with my previous setup when the diverter valve was installed. I did find that the ECU only used it to boost cut though and not reduce throttle, fuel or timing in any way.
I had tried using a voltage clamp back when i had oversized crank and undersized supercharger pulley, higher RPM it was a bit erratic. Prefacelif doesnt have a MAP sensor, so i guess clamping MAF means car cant meter the air fuel mix proper. I'm not sure why i experienced this, but on the forums some had good results with the MAF clamp.

my pre-facelift has the Bosch ECU, so flashing it is a headache, very few ppl have the equipment to do at that time (back in 2013 i think). Read took 30 mins, Write took 10mins, so imagine the time it would take to tune (and no one wanted to do it). So back then i ended up installing a piggy back (Unichip).

Then i went turbo.

Initally i had the diverter valve in place, no BOV. It never did cut boost, even upto 1.2 bar. Then again, without a MAP sensor, my car doesnt know how much boost its getting. I finally disconnected the diverter valve as i felt its limiting low RPM boost build up (its always open, and only closes on certain throttle position vs RPM). However, i had to keep it electrrically connected, plus a resistor to the supercharger clutch (pre-facelift woes), as i felt it switched to a different Fueling map when either one are disconnected -> observed by eyeballing AF wideband gauge. I'm not sure if it pulls timing.

But i still had fuleing issues, even with the Unichip, which basically alters fueling via the MAF.
So i did a piggy-back for fueling with another controller whic directly controls the 4 injectors, and it made tuning much easier -> plus i could now tune the Fueling my self (Unichip needed you to be an authorized tuner, or buy the software and cables at a rediculous price).

The most important thing i learnt from all the above is, the ECU loves to relearn and mess with anything you had tuned previously.
Unlike most cars, open loop is also affected by the long term fuel trim. So every time i tuned the fueling, it would last for about 20 mins, and the become kinda eratic. I finally had to unplug the O2 sensor, and run the car in constant Open Loop , until now.

I think i'm going to go complete stand alone next.

What is your plan for the ECU?
 

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SLK R170 230k 1998
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Forgot to add to the above, since my fueling control is direct to the injectors (not via MAF), i didnt have to keep diverter valve electrically plugged in either
 

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2001 R170 SLK230K 6M Sport
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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
I had tried using a voltage clamp back when i had oversized crank and undersized supercharger pulley, higher RPM it was a bit erratic. Prefacelif doesnt have a MAP sensor, so i guess clamping MAF means car cant meter the air fuel mix proper. I'm not sure why i experienced this, but on the forums some had good results with the MAF clamp.

my pre-facelift has the Bosch ECU, so flashing it is a headache, very few ppl have the equipment to do at that time (back in 2013 i think). Read took 30 mins, Write took 10mins, so imagine the time it would take to tune (and no one wanted to do it). So back then i ended up installing a piggy back (Unichip).

Then i went turbo.

Initally i had the diverter valve in place, no BOV. It never did cut boost, even upto 1.2 bar. Then again, without a MAP sensor, my car doesnt know how much boost its getting. I finally disconnected the diverter valve as i felt its limiting low RPM boost build up (its always open, and only closes on certain throttle position vs RPM). However, i had to keep it electrrically connected, plus a resistor to the supercharger clutch (pre-facelift woes), as i felt it switched to a different Fueling map when either one are disconnected -> observed by eyeballing AF wideband gauge. I'm not sure if it pulls timing.

But i still had fuleing issues, even with the Unichip, which basically alters fueling via the MAF.
So i did a piggy-back for fueling with another controller whic directly controls the 4 injectors, and it made tuning much easier -> plus i could now tune the Fueling my self (Unichip needed you to be an authorized tuner, or buy the software and cables at a rediculous price).

The most important thing i learnt from all the above is, the ECU loves to relearn and mess with anything you had tuned previously.
Unlike most cars, open loop is also affected by the long term fuel trim. So every time i tuned the fueling, it would last for about 20 mins, and the become kinda eratic. I finally had to unplug the O2 sensor, and run the car in constant Open Loop , until now.

I think i'm going to go complete stand alone next.

What is your plan for the ECU?
I currently have a stage 2 tune from a reliable source, save for the boost cut that only affects the diverter valve? Did you ever figure out how the car actually performed the boost cut? I've found with my Siemens ECU that it just opened the diverter valve only to cut boost. All fuel trims, ignition timings and basically everything else stays the same. I've forced the ECU to boost cut with the old supercharger over boost and logged data that way. The throttle body continued to fully open and short/long term fuel tables stay the same.

Are you using a SAFC?

EDIT: Also, I have a KESS v2, WINols (that I have no idea how to use) and ECUtitanium that I have used. Siemens has locked everything down aside from spark and fuel maps, as the ECU is continually adjusting. I fully believe that my ECU will work fine, and only have a lit CEL for the lack of a diverter valve, fuel trims too rich (stage 2 tune) and one for no downstream O2.
 

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99 SLK 200 K (M111.943, Eaton M62, 5 Speed Manual) SL55 AMG look, 18'' AMG style 4
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I had tried using a voltage clamp back when i had oversized crank and undersized supercharger pulley, higher RPM it was a bit erratic. Prefacelif doesnt have a MAP sensor, so i guess clamping MAF means car cant meter the air fuel mix proper. I'm not sure why i experienced this, but on the forums some had good results with the MAF clamp.

my pre-facelift has the Bosch ECU, so flashing it is a headache, very few ppl have the equipment to do at that time (back in 2013 i think). Read took 30 mins, Write took 10mins, so imagine the time it would take to tune (and no one wanted to do it). So back then i ended up installing a piggy back (Unichip).

Then i went turbo.

Initally i had the diverter valve in place, no BOV. It never did cut boost, even upto 1.2 bar. Then again, without a MAP sensor, my car doesnt know how much boost its getting. I finally disconnected the diverter valve as i felt its limiting low RPM boost build up (its always open, and only closes on certain throttle position vs RPM). However, i had to keep it electrrically connected, plus a resistor to the supercharger clutch (pre-facelift woes), as i felt it switched to a different Fueling map when either one are disconnected -> observed by eyeballing AF wideband gauge. I'm not sure if it pulls timing.

But i still had fuleing issues, even with the Unichip, which basically alters fueling via the MAF.
So i did a piggy-back for fueling with another controller whic directly controls the 4 injectors, and it made tuning much easier -> plus i could now tune the Fueling my self (Unichip needed you to be an authorized tuner, or buy the software and cables at a rediculous price).

The most important thing i learnt from all the above is, the ECU loves to relearn and mess with anything you had tuned previously.
Unlike most cars, open loop is also affected by the long term fuel trim. So every time i tuned the fueling, it would last for about 20 mins, and the become kinda eratic. I finally had to unplug the O2 sensor, and run the car in constant Open Loop , until now.

I think i'm going to go complete stand alone next.

What is your plan for the ECU?
Sorry to intercept the turbo thread, but I think that bikz feels frustrated like me with Bosch ME2.1.
Shortly, I haven't turbo, I totally like the boost in low rpm, so when I double pulleyed and ported sc, the 2.0L injectors made ridiculous lean above 4000 rpm. So after all this that you describe I ended up to standalone Megasquirt MS3.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Sorry to intercept the turbo thread, but I think that bikz feels frustrated like me with Bosch ME2.1.
Shortly, I haven't turbo, I totally like the boost in low rpm, so when I double pulleyed and ported sc, the 2.0L injectors made ridiculous lean above 4000 rpm. So after all this that you describe I ended up to standalone Megasquirt MS3.
Do SLK200K's have throttle by wire or cable throttle?
 
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