[frazierfrazier]

Pretty sure the clunk is my sway bar bushings. Everything else looks relatively new but these things have obviously never been changed.

Pelican Parts sells this kit: Sway Bar Bushing Kit 1153200047 - Febi Bilstein - Mercedes-Benz - 115-320-00-47 | Pelican Parts

It's only $13.25, while the genuine Mercedes parts are... almost $150.

$14 sounds great, and I'm sure to notice an improvement seeing as mine have basically turned to dust. I don't want another URO experience, though... thoughts?

 

[okyoureabeast]

I've had good experiences with Febi products in the past.

Heck, i've even had good experiences with Uro products too, but that's a different story.

You'll be fine going with Febi.

 

[reno4u2]

I really like the polyurethane bushings from Energy Suspension...two years ago they were $30 for everything. Here's the info.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c107-sl-slc-class/2672186-sway-bar-links.html#post14706218

I guessing that the 380SL and the 560SL shares the same bushings but don't know for sure.

 

[PanzerPuff]

I really like the polyurethane bushings from Energy Suspension...two years ago they were $30 for everything. Here's the info.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c107-sl-slc-class/2672186-sway-bar-links.html#post14706218
I guessing that the 380SL and the 560SL shares the same bushings but don't know for sure.

I second the vote for poly. That is what I have now on my 560SL. Works great.

 

[Elmer Fudd]

+1 on Poly

I had them fitted everywhere i could find them made for. Don't forget the engine and gearbox mounts if you are going in deep.

 

[frazierfrazier]

Ah, I already went ahead and purchased the febi kit before I saw the poly recommendation.

Any helpful threads for replacing the engine and transmission mounts? Parts suggestions?

Not sure if it needs to be done. Sometimes I think the car has stalled because the idle is so quiet and smooth. (Even with my muffler delete)

 

[PanzerPuff]

If you are going to do the engine mounts you may as well replace all four front subframe bushings, part 32 in the EPC diagram below. These things tend to give up on the 107, just search subframe bushings there are many strings about it.

 

[dr_b]

This is what I learned doing my engine mounts very recently:
Passenger side took me over a week, driver side was done in 45 minutes. I soaked the 8mm mount allen screws (6mm allen hex key ones) for several days, I'm getting more patient as I get older. So I was sure that they would come out without any issues. The outer hex key got stripped at first try on passenger side. So I though I could just drive a torx socket into it. Big mistake! I would say, under no circumstances those screws should be impacted from top. This is because they do not thread directly into the subframe. They thread into a rectangular washer looking piece that is pressed into the subframe from behind. So guess what happens when you smack them from up top. You guessed right, they get free from the interference fit from the frame and fall into the abyss. I was lucky enough to fish it out from the tube socket where the 10mm engine mount bolt goes through. But it is useless at this point since I would not think of a way to press in back into place. So I used a J-bolt for this location. Other screws came out fine. This made it easier for me:

- Do one side at a time
- Support under subframe with floor jack
- Take off the 2 bottom shock nuts
- Unthread the top nut from the sway bar link, remove top bushing and put nut back in for a few turns
- Unscrew the subframe mount bolts until only a few threads are holding it
- Remove center engine mount bolt with 10mm hex socket
- Lower subframe
- Lift engine on that side from bottom of oil pan with a bottle jack. A 2x4 piece in between to distribute force

 

[yka]

Thank you for sharing your experience. Con grats , job done.

When I changed my 560SL engine mounts there were couple of hidden small allen bolts " behind" the engine mount. It was much easier to reach these hidden small allen screws after turning the engine mount by long stick. The allen screw head became almost visible and it was also a bit loosened thanks of engine mount twisting/turning.