taking the car for a run,645 kilometers so far. it felt like it was surging slightly the whole way. then i had to back up on the hwy for a ways and it was very pronounce.otherwise its been running good. does anyone have ideas why this is happening?
surging
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
The EHA is the black Bosch Fuel pressure controller on the CIS. The O rings leak, and so does the unit so spend the coin (number 2 fire hazard in the engine bay) and buy N-E-W!
But before you do all that, be sure all electrical items for IDLE are in proper order: ICV is clean and proper voltage | Grounds are in tact and clean from the starter to the engine bay | wires for ignition are not arcing (check in the dark) and last but not least the COIL.
There are other issues as well, but wiring to and from these components get baked and fragile. These are suggestions of things, your actual results may vary.
But before you do all that, be sure all electrical items for IDLE are in proper order: ICV is clean and proper voltage | Grounds are in tact and clean from the starter to the engine bay | wires for ignition are not arcing (check in the dark) and last but not least the COIL.
There are other issues as well, but wiring to and from these components get baked and fragile. These are suggestions of things, your actual results may vary.
All of the above. If you need a new EHA, they aren't expensive really. Used ones are not worth the time IMO.
The vacuum connector is was thinking of is in the abyss and hard to manoeuvre. On the throttle body itself, down from where the idle valve is.
You could also check the one that goes off to the transmission, at the rear of the engine itself.
The vacuum connector is was thinking of is in the abyss and hard to manoeuvre. On the throttle body itself, down from where the idle valve is.
You could also check the one that goes off to the transmission, at the rear of the engine itself.
To follow on the thoughts here, something is causing a demand or "hunt" for idle. So many things that are electrical, temperature based communication of data to the ECU and the Idle Speed Control Relay. So check the simple things first, electrical connections and vacuum. When checked move to ignition wires to and from cap to engine and coil. Be sure no gas is dripping from the EHA or the Fuel Pressure Regulator. How long has it been since the fuel filter was changed along with accumulator.... (Rhetorical thoughts) Injector seats and cups get hard and brittle too.
well I'm back from my 1200 mile run. car liked it for the most part but still has the surging, high idle, running rough on start, & hard shifting to drive & reverse ( which i believe to be due to rpm at 10.000 ) But could also be due too vac line to transmission! Have my work cut out for me, & believe a fuel filter should be first. car averaged .25/mile. always use premium which is 91 octane, but run into a husky that stated premium was 94 octane.
just turn car on and remove the electrical from the Idle Control valve. If the idle stays the same (may go up briefly) then reattach it and go to the passenger floor board. Remove the plastic faux floor with a 10mm nut driver, pull the idle speed relay out and replace it with a spare. I suspect its gone bad.
well this is what i found, not sure what I'm looking at or for. the one with the high low dial? if not it what does it do? or the one that is higher up. well after all this it only loaded 1 pic & its upside down, maybe it is good enough for our purpose. if not i can give it another shot tomorrow.
Attachments
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
