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'89 420SEL, '93 300E and '07 Hyu Santa Fe
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,
Consider me stupid newb who decided to battle with and manage as much as i can merc repair.
Now my rear brake pads are making sqeaking noice... decided to change them myself.

First difficulty...How to remove tire, so that i can access bolts to remove them.

DSC06656.jpg

DSC06657.jpg
 

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Depends on the week
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I don't believe those are factory MB wheels you have there.
In order to remove those center caps you need a special key that came with the wheels. If you don't have that key, you may be SOL. Maybe someone here used to have wheels like those and might know how to open it - other than that, you may want to try a tire place to see if they have something like that around their shop.
 

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1983 500 SEC Lorinser 1971 280se w108
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Just get a set of needle nose pliers open em so the tips are in the holes and turn em

It will just be either a thread or a T shaped tounge holding the cap on

If your pads are scraping you may need to replace/machine the discs aswell
If your tecnical prowess dosent extend to working out how to remove a wheel cap I wonder wether DIY brake work is a very good idea...No offence intended but the brakes are probably the most important item on the car
And if you start and make a mess of the job you wont be able to drive to the brake shop to get it sorted!
Just a thought ,but good luck all the same :)
 

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'89 420SEL, '93 300E and '07 Hyu Santa Fe
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Just get a set of needle nose pliers open em so the tips are in the holes and turn em

It will just be either a thread or a T shaped tounge holding the cap on

If your pads are scraping you may need to replace/machine the discs aswell
If your tecnical prowess dosent extend to working out how to remove a wheel cap I wonder wether DIY brake work is a very good idea...No offence intended but the brakes are probably the most important item on the car
And if you start and make a mess of the job you wont be able to drive to the brake shop to get it sorted!
Just a thought ,but good luck all the same :)
I tried using really thin philips and hammering it one way (tried both ways) loosen them up but didn't try to use too much force as to not damage them.

And no offence taken as i was thinking same and running away from taking this job...But this time decided to take as if you don't try, you never learn....I have three cars and this is one regular item that needs replacing on all so skill learned will be well worth it even if it may cost little initially.

With same thinking i was able to change all my vaccum pods (-center event) without removing dash and it was success and saved me at least $500 in labor and items as i fixed all pods with used ones and i am confident if it comes back i will be able to do it again instead of running to indy.

Sorry for long post and again no offence is taken :surrender: and this is only for people like me who might be browsing these forums for couple of years thinking to do things on own but don't get courage to try it.:eek:
There is one additional thing I like to mention that i have 2&1/2 year son who likes to do everything i do and follow my steps :). So it will be priceless investment to teach him self reliance on as many thing as possible.:thumbsup:

Back to topic
If can't manage to do myself will take it to tire shop to remove caps but pads will be changed by me at any cost this time.
Any help from Socal members as mentor will be appreciated and I'm willing to drive to them if need be as i need to change all filters on my car also.
 

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1987 420SEL
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Those wheel covers look game for some cir-clip pliers. Those types of pliers have small pins on the ends to remove E-clips and such- E-clips are those spring-type clips that snap into a groove on a shaft. They have small holes where they open.

The first photo is from a company called Teng Tools. I have no affiliation, just giving credit where it's due.

Second photo is from Wikipedia.

Do not hammer on the holes; there's not enough of a "rotatable" radius to make it work.

As far as the brake job goes, use a C-clamp to push the pistons back into the bores and just make sure you properly grease the backs of the pads. Be sure the pairs of bolts on the calipers are nice and tight.
 

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As far as the brake job goes, use a C-clamp to push the pistons back into the bores and just make sure you properly grease the backs of the pads. Be sure the pairs of bolts on the calipers are nice and tight.
Make sure to open the brake reservoir cap when doing so, wouldn't want that blowing off.




Yes, I've done it. :surrender:
 

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`81 W123 280E, `83 W126 280SE, `85 W126 280SE, `91 W126 500SE, `96 W202 C180T, `99 W202 C220CDI
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A few pictures of rear brake pad change on my 280SE:





Removal of the 2 "bolts" :





Removal of the spring:






Removal of the old brake pad using a flat screwdriver:



Old vs. new:



Cleaning of the bolts:

BEFORE:



AFTER:







I hope will help you!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks everyone....dan500se those pics gonna help lot of peep like me in future....
I will update you guys once i'm done...will take this job this evening.
 

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'89 420SEL, '93 300E and '07 Hyu Santa Fe
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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Finally those hubs are off.
I asked Enrique(Mr Mb) to favor me and remove it for me and for being such a good guy he is he did it when my car was there for major overhaul.
(front Ball joints, rear links, front flex disk and transmission service)

Attaching some images what it looks like for somebody in future reference.




It's just regular screw underneath with safety mechanism on top (probably anti-theft thing) Enrique told car should have come with it's pliers to remove it but i could not find it in my tool-box..It goes in a small slot right above the bottom most bolt in pic.

Next things will be tackled by me are my first oil change and fuel filter change.
 

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'89 420SEL, '93 300E and '07 Hyu Santa Fe
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Discussion Starter #10
Hit another snag while changing pads....New ones are thick...They are not ready to go in...I pushed pistons inside but not sure all the way...I remember when indie changed front ones, he machined them a little...Do i need to do so on rear as well or there is any trick..

But I'm happy a little as now I know how to take them out and put them back on..old ones are in again but surely need to go asap.
 

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1983 500 SEC Lorinser 1971 280se w108
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You shouldnt need to mill down the new pads!
you need to fully depress the caliper pistons
You should let off the bleeder nipple to release pressure
just get a legnth of clear plastic pipe to go over it so you dont make a mess
You will need it to bleed the system afterwards anyway...
 

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'89 420SEL, '93 300E and '07 Hyu Santa Fe
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Discussion Starter #12
Finally.....Success
I was delaying doing this almost for 4 months as didn't gather courage again to do it and arctic like weather in socal made matter worse (Yes we are that spoiled) ;-) .
I took leverage of disks to depress pistons which i know was not a good idea but i have to change my disks anyway now that they are not that smooth. I can save some dough if i machine them but will see how breaks perform first and will tackle that job.

now 2 things happened.
1. I will be able to sleep better that i know how to do this job in future.
2. I won't be able to sleep better thinking that why i was paying someone to do this job same feeling that i had when i first changed my oil myself.
 
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