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1974 450SL (US), 2005 SLK200 (UK)
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236 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
See picture. The area is coated with it. I don't see a source for it - any ideas where it might have come from?

Thanks, Andy

2616678
 

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Premium Member
1983 380SL, 2000 S430, 1991 420SEL (retired) - RHD
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5,203 Posts
It's not Ziebart is it ? ie something sprayed from below .Anything else have it underneath?
 

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1984 380 SL
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23 Posts
Is it coming out from behind the pulley there will be a seal there, can you get a finger or cloth behind the pulley to see if it’s damp, pulley could be flinging it out onto your body
 

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1974 450SL (US), 2005 SLK200 (UK)
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236 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
It is very thick and sticky. There is no rust proofing coating under the car. I will check the pulley and see if I can find any more of it. Thanks, Andy
 

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2005 SRT Crossfire. 1973 Euro 450SL
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59 Posts
My bet is the power steering pump seal is going, it looked the same on my 94 XJS a rebuild fixed it. It was also very thick.
 

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1974 450SL (US), 2005 SLK200 (UK)
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236 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
My bet is the power steering pump seal is going, it looked the same on my 94 XJS a rebuild fixed it. It was also very thick.
OK, that is interesting. I have the PS pump out of the car so maybe this is a good time to change it. Andy
 

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'72 450SL, 107.044-12-000422
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200 Posts
Like djenka said.

I’ve had just about every type of fluid leak - coolant, ps fluid, oil, trans fluid. And after awhile, they all look like that. They attract the dust and road grime and the engine heat cooks it.

If you don’t want to preemptively replace parts, I’d just clean it up then watch it to see if you can see any fresh seepage.




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2005 SRT Crossfire. 1973 Euro 450SL
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59 Posts
Mercedessource has a seal change video on YouTube, and sells the seal, if you got the pump out, your mostly done!
 

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European 1974 350SLC ,'78 300CD& '80 300CD sold , '81 240D SWMBO's Car '84 300CD & Euro
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661 Posts
It's almost certainly the pump's input shaft seal .

If you're an experienced DIY'er this is a do it at home job, if not, best just buy a rebuilt pump and swap it out, keeping the old leaky pump until the job is finished to your satisfaction .

IIRC the pulley nut is 22MM, once it's off you gently tap or use a puller to remove the pulley then a seal remover tool or simply screw a sheet metal screw into the face if the seal then yank it our and use a deep socket to carefully press the new seal in .

I've done quite a few of these .

The seal you want is BLUE, this is very important, Mercedes no longer sells it but Peach Parts does, either separately or in the whole pump re seal kit .

Sometimes the thin & delicate O-Ring sealing the back of the pump hardens and begins to weep, it's also a DIY job but much more involved and everything MUST be hospital clean or you're going to loose the power assist when a tiny bit of crud gets stuck in a valve .

I always flush the pump and steering box a few times until the ATF therein remains translucent red and sweet smelling then I clean it all out side and allow to dry before taking the pump off.....

FWIW, if the power steering's ATF is dark, black or brown and smells bad, it's an easy thing to use a turkey baster to drain it out and refill with fresh ATF every oil change until it remains clear and red.....
 

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1974 450SL (US), 2005 SLK200 (UK)
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236 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Thanks Nate. ATF fluid looked good so I think the car has been maintained. I will go to Peach Parts for the seal as you suggested.

Andy
 

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European 1974 350SLC ,'78 300CD& '80 300CD sold , '81 240D SWMBO's Car '84 300CD & Euro
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661 Posts
You're welcome .

If there's any M-B breakers near you a good used pump shouldn't be more than $30 (I have no ida of the exchange rate between Pounds Sterling and U.S. Dollars) but it really isn't a terribly difficult job, just messy as all get out .

DO clean it really well out side before opening it up ! .

I use degreasers and soft bristle brushes (paint brushes) to clean really well ~ you DO NOT want any crud falling off the pressure hose's threads into the pump ! .

I use a degreaser soaked rag too to clean the pulley and underneath the pump where you can't reach with a brush....

Try to find some LINT FREE paper towels too, they'll come in handy when you're wiping out the old crud from the bottom of the inside the pump, underneath the filter .

You'll need a 17MM flare nut wrench or crow's foot to loosen the pressure hose .

I'm sure there's someone who has rusted out R107's for parts......

I find it easier to get a spare thing used and service / repair / overhaul it then install it, no worries about not getting it re assembled in time to drive to work to - morrow .

BE GENTLE / CAUTIOUS when the attaching the pressure hose ! the barrel nut usually doesn't turn very freely so you have to lube it and keep the pipe pulled out as far as possible whilst you gently start the barrel nut's threads ~ DO NOT tighten the nut with any wrench until you've turned it at least four full 360 degree turns by your fingers ! .

If you force it you'll cross thread it and create a whole 'nother massive problem .

Some times I find it best to turn the nut backwards until I feel the threads click, then turn it clockwise .
 
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