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71 R107 350 SL. 03 Nissan 350Z. 07 Merc C200
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637 Posts
I know, I know..I am an old thread regurgitator...

There were a few variations on a theme here on the box adjustment methodology.

I am tackling this tommorrow...

Whats the definitive tool set for successful adjustment...

Supplimentary Q...Whats the best position in front for the axle stands?

Cheers, Ta.
 

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Previous: 1989 190E 2.6, 1997 E420, 1985 380SL, 1975 450SLC
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747 Posts
I know, I know..I am an old thread regurgitator...

There were a few variations on a theme here on the box adjustment methodology.

I am tackling this tommorrow...

Whats the definitive tool set for successful adjustment...

Supplimentary Q...Whats the best position in front for the axle stands?

Cheers, Ta.
I put my jack stands under the front sway bar mounts.. probably not ideal but I didn't relish the oil pan lift method I had read elsewhere on this board.

As for tools, I had a couple of false starts as described earlier. Use a true wobble, not a U-joint for your 19mm/3/4" crows foot, and use a flare nut version if you can find it. Re the crows foot, the first one I bought had a chamfered edge where it contacts the locknut which resulted in too little contact on the nut. Since you can't really press down on the crows foot from 2ft above to get the crows foot to seat, this was providing dangerously little contact with the nut. I ended up buying a non-chamfered flare nut crows foot set at Harbor Freight which did the trick. Needed a 2ft 1/2" breaker bar to bust the locknut free (the twist in my 2ft 3/8" socket extension bar was considerable!)

You will need two such long socket extension bars as the 6mm adjustment screw doesn't turn freely inside the locknut.

Also, it's a great opportunity to replace your car's steering damper at the same time.. a $30 part, that on my car lightened up the steering and made it much smoother throughout its range.
 

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71 R107 350 SL. 03 Nissan 350Z. 07 Merc C200
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637 Posts
Thanks a lot nathanso...

I guess I also need a 6mm allen key in a socket?
 

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1985 mercedes 380sl
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29 Posts
cruse control

Nascar fan, I am new to the Benzworld, and have been reading past topics. You had a topic on a after market cruse control. I am looking at the same model Rasta 205-1233. One of the problems I have is trying set the 12 switches that on the controler. I need the number of pulses per min. to the speedometer. Can you provide the switch settings on your unit, or provide information on the pulse per min?

Thanks
Tom
 

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1982 300SD, 1984 380SL, 1997 E320, 2008 R350
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366 Posts
If I fail to tighten the jam nut enough, will the steering gearbox leak? I tried adjusting the steering last night but did not have a ball end allen, so I tightened the jam nut back but not too hard so as to have an easier time breaking it loose the next time. But today, I noticed a puddle on the parking spot and there was smoke and smell of burnt oil. Seems to be coming right from under the gearbox.

Follow-up: Ended up grinding the old broken 6 mm allen with dremel to a ball end & it worked. Steering is much better. BUT. With both wheels raised, I found no play when trying turn the left wheel left and right by hand, yet there was about a 1/4 inch of play in the right wheel. My wheel bearings, tie rods, idler rod/bearings and steering coupler are new. If I look down at the idler, it looks like it moves, rocking forward and aft as it lets the right tie rod move from side to side. Should the new idler behave that way? is there a way to stop it from rocking like that?

PS: my adjusting screw turned out more then full turn, almost two full turns, yet the steering feels fine and returns to center on its own.
 

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1988 Mercedes Benz 450SLC
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2 Posts
I have a 1988 450 SLC and the steering is very loose please tell me where to adjust on the steering box
 

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R/C107 Moderator
1986 560SL: '84 500SL: '84 280SL 5 speed: other 107s
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31,989 Posts
I have a 1988 450 SLC and the steering is very loose please tell me where to adjust on the steering box
Apparently it is not a typo as questioned in your other posts and your profile. There is no such thing as a 1988 SLC. Production of the 107 SLC ended with the 1981 model. Post your VIN and we can tell you what it is.
 

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w108 & w107
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90 Posts
Re-igniting old thread after reading through scores of posts, i have a question about this process. I've loosened the lock nut, but the internal allen key bolt won't turn without the lock nut also turning.
Can i remove the whole adjustment assembly and then separate the Allen key bolt from the lock nut on the work bench without losing too much fluid or other re- assembly issues?
Or is this a sign of another underlying issue?
 

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1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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6,738 Posts
I would first make sure the Steering Coupler is tight, AND the Tie Rods are tight.

First Mark the current position of the inner allen screw - I used some art paint.
Then, hold the allen screw with your wrench, and simultaneously loosen the 19mm lock nut.
Next, rotate the allen screw CCW 1/4 turn.
Now, hold the allen screw's position and simultaneously tighten the 19mm lock nut.
Take Car for a test drive to see if Steering OK.
Make sure that Steering is not binding as you steer full Left and full Right.
Repeat to tighten further but if you have to do a full turn, I would check other steering components.
 

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w108 & w107
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90 Posts
Thanks Carl. Yes i checked the coupler, and it's fine. The issue i had was the Allen screw was not free too turn relative to the lock nut. I did manage to free it by spraying WD40 liberally every hour for about 12 hours... ended up making about half a turn on the Allen screw relative to the lock nut. It was late and raining so i couldn't drive it further than a couple of metres in the garage, but I'll try it tomorrow.
 

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1983 380SL, ivory/dk brown, 46k miles, dual roller timing chain. 1986 560SL, red/white, 190K mile.
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6,738 Posts
Here is a way to check Steering Play:

 

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Premium Member
1986 560SL with M120 V12 Engine, 1988 560SL Stock
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9,865 Posts
Re-igniting old thread after reading through scores of posts, i have a question about this process. I've loosened the lock nut, but the internal allen key bolt won't turn without the lock nut also turning.
Can i remove the whole adjustment assembly and then separate the Allen key bolt from the lock nut on the work bench without losing too much fluid or other re- assembly issues?
Or is this a sign of another underlying issue?
You would have to remove the pitman arm and probably the exhaust manifold, which at that point it would just be easier to remove the box and adjust it on the bench. Reseal while your at it.
 
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