[sparky1016]

Just replaced all 4 upper control arms and two rear suspension tie-rods.
Went to local alignment shop for 4 wheel alignment, but after an hour of wait, was told the technician can't finish front camber & cast, saying they don't have the alignment spec for ML320, WTF?

Small town alignment shop, but looked like they have most up-to-date equipment, still don't have the spec???

On the way home(it's late Saturday afternoon on holiday weekend, everyone is already closed or booked), BAS/ESP MIL lit up - C1140-12 (N49 steering angle sensor). Noticed the steering wheel wasn't lined up, about 10-15 degree to right, should have turned back . . . is this merely telling steering wheel isn't straight?

I found my old alignment print-out from last one 06-2015 which shows the specification for ML320, can this print-out be used for the shop to enter the spec values manually and finish the job? Is it SAFE to drive with this MIL on? Thanks for your help.

 

[mattml430]

Sounds like they have moved something to cause that. Do not pull the steering wheel off to correct it. It will have to be realigned. Try spinning the wheel lock to lock 3-4 times it may reset itself but will not straighten the wheel up.


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[Noodles]

We had that problem when we first bought the 2000 ML320 used. A well done alignment got the steering wheel straight and the fault was gone.

 

[sparky1016]

I'm going back there on Wednesday ASAP for re-alignment. I hope the shop will be able to get the correct alignment done with the specification I supplied. ML is out of service for the weekend. :bash:

But I'm happy to know it will correct itself once alignment is done correctly.

 

[Noodles]

The system freaks out when the wheel is at an angle while the truck is going down the road.

I can't remember if I had to clear my code or not, but once driving it in less than a mile it was fine and the BAS/ESP lights were off.
Make sure they have the wheel centered and use one of the posts to hold it centered to do the alignment. That way the wheel ends up straight
and no freak outs from the SAS.

 

[sparky1016]

Rob, I tried to reset the BAS/ESP light with my Autel MD 802, but no success.
I still don't understand why the alignment shop was unable to get the ML aligned with their state of art equipment. I was told to take it to MB dealer, but in the past I have done many alignments at local indy shops, never at MB dealer.

Do you think it's safe to drive for 26 miles or should I have it towed? I do have AAA+ 100 mile towing coverage. Thanks.

 

[sparky1016]

Well, I saw the tech had a long post to keep the wheel centered, wondering why the steering wheel is off centered now.

Also, as I noticed BAS/ESP light coming on driving home, pulled over and restarted (MIL went off, but back on shortly after). Upon gradual accelerating shifting was crazy, this can't be related to incomplete alignment, right?

 

[dramos]

I've posted same experience on this forum.

Nothing else but your wheel alignment is the culprit. Once it's properly done the lights should go out after driving for a while.
That particular code -12 doesn't reset with lock to lock

I believe if you're an experienced driver you can still carefully use the ML without causing any extra harm to it.

Best of luck.

 

[Steve Lauhoff]

I am late to this party but I am experiencing similar issues. I did some front suspension work and needed an alignment. I took it to a general tire shop near where I live and after the alignment, my steering wheel would go from TDC to -20 to -30 degrees. And then, without any indication, I would find it back at TDC. Then, as I was making a right turn, I experienced a bump and what I can best describe as a loss of steering 'feeling' while on the curve. I started another thread here and went down a whole list of things. Ended up replacing the steering rack and then drove it again. Same issue on the right hand curve. I noticed this time, however, that the noise came from the ABS kicking in. I had Yaw Rate sensor, Front right speed sensor, and Steering Angle sensor errors after scanning. I found a YouTube video where a ML owner described that the Yaw Rate sensor failure was common and caused unanticipated braking - just like I had experienced. So I removed my Yaw Rate sensor and the right turn problem has ceased. I still get the -20 to -30 steering angle change and it happens after I run over uneven terrain. Eventually it goes back to TDC. After reading the comments here, I am wondering if a bad alignment has triggered all this ESP system whackiness. For those who fixed their problem with a new alignment, was there anything specific that they did that may not have been done in your first alignment? It seem to me that the root of my problem may be there. Thanks for any feedback you can provide.

 

[Witek_M]

I took it to a general tire shop near where I live and after the alignment, my steering wheel would go from TDC to -20 to -30 degrees. And then, without any indication, I would find it back at TDC.

Something is shifting under load. To set camber and caster they had to loosen upper control arm bolts on all four corners.

Don't overlook rear suspension. Loose rear tie rods or loose rear subframe will results in same symptoms.

 

[Steve Lauhoff]

I’m going to get another alignment and tell them to tighten down everything. Good point on rear suspension and subframe.

 

[Witek_M]

I’m going to get another alignment and tell them to tighten down everything. Good point on rear suspension and subframe.

PM sent.

 

[Steve Lauhoff]

To update this, I finally got a solution. I decided after everything I tried to go back and retighten all the suspension bolts. Had a little play in the UCA bolts but tightened them to spec. But the real problem turned out to be the sway bar in the back. Those linkages needed a lot of tightening. Once I did, the problem went largely away. I was having a little lateral movement in the front, so I tightened down those sway bar bushings. I was getting a lot of clicking when I would stop and I thought that might be it. It sway and clicking have largely ceased but I can still feel/hear some. May not be the sway bar making the click. I tightened them down good. Anyway, mystery solved. Check your rear sway bar links if you are having this problem. I had asked the places I got an alignment to do that and they told me they had but obviously not.