Since the TD-signal (voltage between terminal 1 & 2 at diagnostic socket) is so weak after the engine cooled down, I suggest to pull the CPS plug from the EZL and check the CPS’s resistance between both contacts at the coaxial plug (like shown in the video). It should always be between 680 and 1200 ohms (both cold and hot)!
Btw – I like the methodical approach of trouble shooting in this video.
Only one thing l didn’t like: the cable coming which connects the coil with the distributor should not be used for a spark test! As I mentioned in post 32, that can fry the EZL.
And: when he tested the voltage between both coil terminals 1 & 15 (up from 22:00 in the video), he cranked the engine. That's not really necessary – the key in “ignition on” would be enough. (The voltage should be zero then)
Liviu165’s suggestion to check for proper ground connection is absolutely eligible!
I did mention the coil’s connection to ground in post 29. But liviu165 is right – also the engine’s connection to ground via it’s ground strap should be checked. It is possible that the spark plugs depending on the engines heat don’t have connectivity to ground via that strap.
Also the EZL’s connection to ground should be checked (but I think that's probably okay).
Other things that should be checked, when the engine does not start (with the key switched to “ignition on”):
Btw – I like the methodical approach of trouble shooting in this video.
Only one thing l didn’t like: the cable coming which connects the coil with the distributor should not be used for a spark test! As I mentioned in post 32, that can fry the EZL.
And: when he tested the voltage between both coil terminals 1 & 15 (up from 22:00 in the video), he cranked the engine. That's not really necessary – the key in “ignition on” would be enough. (The voltage should be zero then)
Liviu165’s suggestion to check for proper ground connection is absolutely eligible!
I did mention the coil’s connection to ground in post 29. But liviu165 is right – also the engine’s connection to ground via it’s ground strap should be checked. It is possible that the spark plugs depending on the engines heat don’t have connectivity to ground via that strap.
Also the EZL’s connection to ground should be checked (but I think that's probably okay).
Other things that should be checked, when the engine does not start (with the key switched to “ignition on”):
- voltage between terminal 4 of the diagnostic socket and ground (should be battery voltage)
- voltage between terminal 5 of the diagnostic socket and ground (should be battery voltage)
- voltage between terminal 4 & 5 of the diagnostic socket (should be zero)
That’s actually the same test as done in the video between both coil terminals (terminal 1 & 15) - pull the EZL plug (with terminals 15, 16, 31 and TD) and check voltage between terminal 15 & 31 (should be battery voltage at “ignition on”)
