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Discussion Starter #1
I have tried searching this here first but nothing is quite like this issue . If I do not drive my car everyday , they next day it will not start until a very long while or It will start and run rough and will stall anywhere, either straight on a road , turning or if I put it into park or reverse from drive ..say like at the store.

IF it dies you ARE STUCK for at least 30 minutes then it will roar back to life but ONLY if you pump it and you will have to try sparingly several times to accomplish this. It never gets hot . It can be cool and do this.Once it come back on it runs normally.

Then it will run and you can drive anywhere and start it up again fine. Now it is starting to do this everyday even if I have driven it the previous day . It DOES need a new fuel filter and think this may be the problem but I live in a very salt water/salt air area right beside the ocean and my husband thinks this may be electrical .

whats embarrassing was on Thanksgiving it stalled at the grocery and my husband, after 45 minutes of trying, towed us home with the trusty tank of our old 300SE that the kids say smells like an aquarium on wheels :surrender:

then I got home and it started right up like nothing had ever happened???

any ideas would be appreciated
 

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92 190e 2.6 Sportline, 2005 clk55
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I would say change the fuel filter and also check the fuel pump, regulator and check valve. it is located under the car by the drivers rear tire.
 

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1993 190E 2.6, 1990 300SEL, 1992 300SE, 1992 400E, 1987 190E 2.6 murdered by my brother.
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You say Deep South...are you in Louisiana or Gulf Coast Mississippi? Lots of humidity down there. When was the last time your husband cleaned the AFM or air flow meter which is where the butter fly is that is under the air filter box? That area will get gummed up with varnish and soot and even motor oil because the motor oil vapors go into the air filter box. You can see the black breather tube from the valve cover going onto the top of the air filter box. On super hot days or super cold days it can cause the car to not crank or even stall because its sticky. Get some carb/choke cleaner and spray the top of the disc and then open it and spray the inside and wipe as much gunk out as possible. You can start your engine without the air box on...just dont drive it around as you dont want any large debris going inside the engine and seizing it.

These cars rarely have electric problems unless someone hacked up the original wiring inside the vehicle. When was the last time you changed your cap and rotor, spark plugs and spark plug wires? Dont forget these cars are high performance vehicles but they are also getting close to 20 years old. No Toyota or Honda would have lasted this long. You dont see a lot of those types of cars around from the 1980s anymore. Mercedes are well built.

When your car stalls again take out each spark plug wire and put in an old spark plug. Touch the exhaust manifold to ground them and have someone crank the engine and shut it off right away. This is to check for spark. Do it for each cylinder. If you get spark check to see if it is a strong or weak spark. Strong looks like lightening and weak isnt that bright. If some have spark and some dont then check your spark plug wire for resistance. They do go bad and not all at the same time.

If none have spark then check your ignition coil. Where is this you ask? Follow the middle wire on the cap and it will go to this black box like thing next to the ABS unit. Lift up the cap and you will see it. Stamped BOSCH. Make sure you unplug the battery first so you dont ride the lightening!!! I am not sure how to check to see if this ignition coil is busted other than to check for resistance in Ohms. So it could be the coil.

The next thing that could go wrong is the EZL or electronic ignition control module which is this black box on the drivers side fender that has a lot of round plugs coming out it. If this thing is busted it could be very pricey for a new one so shop around for a used one or even go to your junkyard as there are a lot of 190E 2.6's there now. At least in California. If you get intermittent spark then this is the unit to change.

Another thing is the crank position sensor. It will give a symptom of like the car is running out of gas or not getting enough gas. It is just a magnet that sits on top of the transmission.

You should ask your kids whats flyer than a G6? A two.six!
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
update to my problem

Well now it wont start at all or only intermittently .It sounds like it wants to start and even has small backfires or something that sounds like small backfires .. So far the breather tube ( it had been ripped and taped to where you couldnt tell it apparently by the previous owner) , Spark plugs, OVP, MAS relay, Fuel , oil and air filters have all been replaced .. You can smell gas when you go to crank it and it will after a VERY LONG time start after pumping it to death but wont stay on. I even swapped batteries with the 300 SE and the 190's battery cranked the 300 just fine ,, very frustrating .

One weird thing about this is that we replaced the OVP that we had extra for the 88 SE and it ran great for 3 wonderful days ,, then it just went to he** in a handbasket..... I am still going down the list of suggestions but if this update yields anymore clues for any of you ,, please let me know.

Runninebel,, I am in Port Aransas ,Texas,, an Island off of Corpus Christi so it is very damp here all the time.
 

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1991 190e 2.6 automatic
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one thing to remember is, even if you replaced your ovp, the new one might have already died. i remember i replaced my ovp 6 months ago just to be safe since my old one was maybe original. Turns out my new one died just recently, and i put my old one back in and it works. ( symptoms were: hard cold start.. like you would need to crank it a lot of times to get it to start. and when it starts, the rpms are very low.. and it runs very sluggish, but doesnt stall )

when i did have a stalling problem, i replaced and cleaned a bunch of parts so i am not sure what exactly cured it but i replaced spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, wires. I had the intake system cleaned ( search seafoam ). i never touched my fuel mass unit, or adjusted fuel, i never touched iac valve ( symptoms would be high idle if it sticks open on a cold start which i am having right now lol)

if you havent changed your distr cap and rotor, do so and put good silver or copper non resistor spark plugs in there. unplug all electrical connectors that are important and clean them if they are dirty. im not sure if this helped any.
 

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1992 190E 2.6
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I had a simlar problem a few months back and it was my coil. I also replaced the cap and rotor first. When was the last time you replaced the cap, rotor, and wires? If they need to be replaced anyway I would try that. Coil is expensive so I would not tell you to change that without testing it which I don't know how to do. But that was the problem with mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Every suggestion /reminder helps . Thank you for ALL the suggestions,, we are going down the lists on this thread ,, because you all are right ,, this particular car has alot of it's originals... Rotor and cap are next and Im going to go ahead with the coil too.. Husband has suspected this long ago...and for some odd reason we have a large german made salvage yard - with the occasional Volvo of course ....in Corpus Christi ??? Strange but true .. if i cant get it on ebay I go there.


I am still not entirely certain about the battery either ,, I read about the possibility of an internal short on an old post deaing with OVP's and wondered if it would still test as a good battery but would still be frying the OVP ,, but first things first .
 

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Mercedes 190 Sportiline, BMW R1100RT
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Similar issue

We have a W210 Sportline. I has performed really well until about a year ago.

It began to stall as we slowed, say at the traffic lights. Then, if you were waiting at the lights and there was no stall, on moving away the motor would 'stutter' then either move off or stall. This is quite a safety issue. :(

So, some expert said the slow idle valve need replacing: that done the car went well for a few weeks and the problem returned. Ah, then a new distributer cap and spark plugs. One more a few weeks and the problem returned. I then undid all the electrical circuits I could find and cleaned the contacts. Guess what? two week and the prodigal problem has returned.

Added to that it is difficult to start when the ambient is cold. When it's warm it's no problem.

Sorry no real answers here, but if my tail resonates that's good: some expert may have the 'golden spanner" :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I think I got it

new cap new rotor = new car ,,, so far so good . now that ive replaced o much ,, I got an excellent deal (36.00) on a new coil so I snagged that too but havent put it in .. We will see but felt SO good just to barely touch it and it fired immediatley and ran sooo smooth.
 
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