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'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
OK, so I decided to save a buck....common practice when you're poor and raising a two yr old, as an old fart. I went with Kent's Bosch blower motor for $100 which includes a tool to remove the squirrel cage segments. His tool is just a claw foot wrench welded to some mild steel to form a 90 degree angle.

Here's what I did;
Sanded the exposed ends of the shafts back down to clean steel.
Sprayed some PB Blaster on the shaft ends.
Put the motor body in a vice carefully(protect the squirrel cage segments at all costs).
Put Kent's tool on the motor side of the shaft and then using an assortment of screwdrivers turned sideways, SLOWLY pried the squirrel cage segment away from the motor.
Repeated on the other side.
Drove the new squirrel cage segments back on with a socket(a sized, small plastic pipe segment might be safer) and a SMALL ball peen hammer(don't trust myself with a larger one).
Made sure the cage fins are oriented exactly like you took them off.

Now here's where I made my mistake.....I measured the distance carefully from the end of the shaft to the beginning of the squirrel cage collar on both sides and transferred those measurements to the new motor shafts. Put the finished blower back in and it touched the Beher housing. Had to take it out and fudge with both to center them correctly in the housing. I figure the newer Bosch motor is significantly different in dimension than the old motor. In a hurry, didn't test my theory other than you can visibly see the motor works look different between the two.

30 minutes to get the motor out, an hr to fuss with it and button back up. I would suggest putting the cover to the blower housing back on AFTER you run the motor at all speeds and are convinced everything is OK.

Eureka, I have decent air flow once again just in time for winter!

Saved almost $200 this way....didn't even look where the Bosch motor was made....don't care, not a critical safety issue like suspension/motor parts. Kent's a big advocate of aftermarket parts, so expect the worst from Bosch in this instance.

Break the squirrel cage segments and you're screwed...know that going into this. You're stuck with a motor assembly and no source I've ever seen to just buy the squirrel cage portions.

Be better if you could take Kent's tool idea and adapt it to like a pilot bushing puller with a slide impact. Surprisingly, it doesn't take a lot of force to move those cage segments. I sprayed some cleaner on the cages where the PB blaster had spread to....if not, you'll smell oil for a while. Plus, I was concerned that the residual oil might make the cages move on the shafts while in use.

Kevin
 

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'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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10,298 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys! It was kinda fun doing the cage swap....I just wished I had realized how different the motors were with respect to the holder case orientation. The air is so ferocious coming out of the vents now, that I put it on low. That will change when it gets colder. I just went to the coast with the baby and the blower not working. I was a little paranoid the inside glass would fog up on the rainy side, but there was just enough residual heat to keep things clear and barely keep us warm. Sometimes the fan would work a little, but not for long. I played with it for a few minutes with the cover off and I could force spin it and it would take off...screw that, it's due for the trash.

Sorry there were no pics, but I was really up against it time wise and I had to pick up the baby just as soon as I finished!

Kevin
 

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About a dozen 1988, 1989, 1990, and 1991 sedans, wagons, 4Matics and 1 coupe
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5,461 Posts
I have a brand new cageless Bosch motor in my parts stash and have been avoiding doing a squirrel cage swap due to lack of info. It would appear that lack of info has been fixed. Good thing, because the new-to-me white over java leather 88 300E I bought from a forum member some months back seems to need a blower motor.

BTW, that 88 300E will probably be put up for sale so I can concentrate time/funds on the new coupe. As nice as the 88 sedan is (and it is very, very nice inside and out) it's no navy blue over java coupe.
 

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1990 300E
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745 Posts
@Real1shepherd
Hey Kevin,

I know this is an old thread but I didn't want to start another thread on the dreaded blower. I grabbed a blower + regulator from a '95 E320 (the air filter model) so it prolly wont fit my '90 without air filter but I wanted something to play with. I'll practice removing the cage like you did and replace the brushes.

Here're the questions:
  • Amazon has gazillion brushes so can't I simply get a set that matches dimensionally and solder them in?
  • Obviously it'd be easier to remove the cage first before R/R the brushes but I'd like to see if I can do them w/o removing the cages. I think you did this previously and if so, did you spread the brush holder (circled in the pic)
  • Regarding lubrication, I've read some have used ATF with good results so I was going to go that route. I also have 3 in 1 lubricant on the shelf. I was going to drip tiny amount of ATF into the bearing area by leaving the blower in a vertical config on the table and have it soak in. I'll be sure to wipe off excess in the hopes of reducing the cabin smell.
  • Do you know what the differences are between the air filter vs non air filter models? The motors are the same I'd imagine but perhaps the size of the squirrel cages are different as well as the distance apart they sit from one another?
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1987 560 SL, 1990 300E 4Matic
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465 Posts
Good reading through this old thread! I know just how tricky removing anything which is hard plastic from anything it's been pressed on to, or over can be. The saying "Patience is a virtue" always comes to mind. A belated "Like" has been added to your post, Kevin.
 

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'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
@Real1shepherd
Hey Kevin,

I know this is an old thread but I didn't want to start another thread on the dreaded blower. I grabbed a blower + regulator from a '95 E320 (the air filter model) so it prolly wont fit my '90 without air filter but I wanted something to play with. I'll practice removing the cage like you did and replace the brushes.

Here're the questions:
  • Amazon has gazillion brushes so can't I simply get a set that matches dimensionally and solder them in?
  • Obviously it'd be easier to remove the cage first before R/R the brushes but I'd like to see if I can do them w/o removing the cages. I think you did this previously and if so, did you spread the brush holder (circled in the pic)
  • Regarding lubrication, I've read some have used ATF with good results so I was going to go that route. I also have 3 in 1 lubricant on the shelf. I was going to drip tiny amount of ATF into the bearing area by leaving the blower in a vertical config on the table and have it soak in. I'll be sure to wipe off excess in the hopes of reducing the cabin smell.
  • Do you know what the differences are between the air filter vs non air filter models? The motors are the same I'd imagine but perhaps the size of the squirrel cages are different as well as the distance apart they sit from one another?
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View attachment 2619208
I don't know the exact differences between the air filter models and no air filter models, sorry.

As far as the brushes...Kent offers a brush kit and full instructions on how to use his kit. It even comes with a little shield to protect the cage from falling hot solder.

As far as lubrication, I tried about everything; turbine oil, 20wt non-detergent small motor oil, ATF. One of the problems is the odor....whatever you use, the smell immediately manifests itself in your cabin. It will die down eventually, depending on the voracity of the oil you use. All of them work....but the downside is they work for about a yr or so and your sintered bushings will start squealing again.

The best you can do is clean the sintered bushing with a spray solvent that doesn't leave residue.....like brake clean or contact cleaner etc..... make sure everything is dry and relube. My guess is that the original bushing had impregnated dry lubricant and you're trying to convert to wet......so long term this does not work. Replacing the bushing with new oil impregnated bushings would almost certainly guarantee a good repair....along with new brushes. Removing the bushings is not practical to do so.

The Bosch fan motor without the cage is about $100 and at some point, I just defected to that. I don't consider it routine maintenance to go in their every couple of yrs and relube the bushings.

I do know that the motor & shafts were different orientation than the OE....so measuring how the squirrel cage sat on the old shafts was useless. I had to move the cage around on the shafts to fit in the enclosure. One member said 'nonsense' you just measure and everything goes back the same. If the motor/shafts orient differently 'naked' than the OE, then his comment was sheep dip.
 

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W124
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My experience with Mercedes blower motors is that the brushes and the armature commutator are engineered to fail at about the same time. Usually the brushes go first, which sets up the thought that all they need is new brushes. You can probably get a few months or maybe even a year out of a motor with new brushes but it will fail as the commutator reaches end of life.
 

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'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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10,298 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I think it's just not worth the effort to keep the blower motor going...mine went for yrs after the first brush set was replaced. But the issue with sintered bushings is unbeatable unless you drill out the rivets and find a way to replace them. Since the naked Bosch motor isn't horribly expensive, save your cage and reinstall.

Don't forget to replace the OE reg or you'll likely be back in for that too. I made that mistake the first time.

Kevin
 

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'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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Discussion Starter #12
I got a Meyle blower/fan cage combo and been just dandy. No messing around. Think it was less than $150.
You need to follow that statement up with a 'where'? Did they use a Bosch motor and if not, what brand was the motor?

Kevin
 

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'95 E300 DIESEL, '91 600SEL, '92 600SEL
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17,151 Posts
^This X 10. And Meyle being a reboxer brand like Febi/Bilstein & co., even if they did use a Bosch motor there is no way to be sure they don't change to a different supplier by next week or by lunchtime.
 

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2008 E320 OM642 Bluetec1992 300D 2.5 Turbo (Sold @ 248k running strong), 1985 240D (sold)
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120 Posts
When I did my '92 W124, there was a number stamped in the motor case. I searched for it on the 'net and came up with a Siemens motor. When crossing it, I found it matched several car manufacturers and I purchased a cageless Cadillac motor for about $35 as I recall. That was 2002 or there abouts.
As Real1shepard said, the cages had to be adjusted as the motor sat slightly off center in the cradle compared to the old one. But, it was quite variable from low to high and high demonstrated more flow than the OE.
If you're going to try to go cheap on the purse, you'll have to spend time doing research and mods. These days I just buy the correct part.
 

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'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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Discussion Starter #15
When I did my '92 W124, there was a number stamped in the motor case. I searched for it on the 'net and came up with a Siemens motor. When crossing it, I found it matched several car manufacturers and I purchased a cageless Cadillac motor for about $35 as I recall. That was 2002 or there abouts.
As Real1shepard said, the cages had to be adjusted as the motor sat slightly off center in the cradle compared to the old one. But, it was quite variable from low to high and high demonstrated more flow than the OE.
If you're going to try to go cheap on the purse, you'll have to spend time doing research and mods. These days I just buy the correct part.
Siemens is a famous Euro electric motor company. I can verify that if spec-ed by an entity they can make trashy stuff. On the whole though, their motors are thought to be equivalent to Bosch or better.

In Euro vintage electronics for example, their motors are very durable and highly regarded.......except for one I have in a tape deck that's a real POS....but that was Tandberg's fault for cheap spec-ing the motor. Hall effect DC motor no less.

Kevin
 

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1989 W124 260E
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real1shepherd would it be possible for a picture of the tool you used to remove the cage with?.. May be its possible for me to knock one up to do mine .
 

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'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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Discussion Starter #17
real1shepherd would it be possible for a picture of the tool you used to remove the cage with?.. May be its possible for me to knock one up to do mine .
I'll see if I can find it. It was from Kent @mercedes Source DIY. Just a steel shaft and a fork offset about 90 degrees.....be easy to make.

Sorry my tutorial didn't have pics with it. Usually, I'm not that organized or inclined until after it's all done...lol.

Kevin
 

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1990 300E
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Kevin - thanks for the info. Might you have the instructions from Kent on the bushing swap?
 

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'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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Discussion Starter #19
Kevin - thanks for the info. Might you have the instructions from Kent on the bushing swap?
No bushing swap, just the procedure for soldering the new brushes in. I was saying that if you wanted to service the motor correctly, you'd drill out the rivets, find the appropriate pre-lubed sintered bushings and replace.

I put all of Kent's stuff in a box somewhere....haven't seen any of it since the move. You buy his brush kit though and you should get the tutorial.

Kevin
 

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'92 300TE 4matic 280,000miles, '92 300TE 4Matic 'Ice Blue Metalic' 101,000miles
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Discussion Starter #20
real1shepherd would it be possible for a picture of the tool you used to remove the cage with?.. May be its possible for me to knock one up to do mine .
I cannot find the tool since the move, sorry. I think he has a pic of it on his website. It was pretty crude...round metal shaft with a fork welded to it that goes around the motor shaft....pulls up against the squirrel cage shaft female plastic.

Kevin
 
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