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Unimog Moderator
250GD Wolf
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Apparently....not all mog speedo's are dead on. Mines...a wee bit off :)

Here's a quote from the Unimurr site on the install:

Furthermore, for people who want to use a bicycle speedometer for accurate speed measurement: The steel strip is a great bracket for the speedo sensor.
 

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U1450L DOKA
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11,625 Posts
And most bicycles are faster than most UNIMOGS....


I get it, but I also think, the more I travel in a UNIMOG, how the speed of travel is the very
Least important component of the trip.

Funny, because before I ever got one, I was fixated on how to teach the world about how to
Get sensational top end.

If is is a huge issue, get a UGN or call the Hellgeths.
 

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Unimog Moderator
250GD Wolf
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I concur. I drove mine to work and back today, got 1/2 way home before I remembered I hadn't yet engaged the overdrive in 8th, was cruising at 87km/h, not a care in the world. Flipped the switch just to drop the RPM's and kept it at 87 for the rest of the journey.

Back to the brake squeal, mine comes and goes, right after I did my brakes, nothing, then, 2 weeks later, started squeeling, now, nothing. My mechanic suggested chamfering the pads (not sure, didn't want to seem like I didn't know what he was talking about, so I nodded), he said that would help, I said it didn't bother me that much.

Sure makes people at cross walks think twice....

What's really funny, is at the local cruise night, I fan-dangled my way in line behind a convertible Mercedes car (forgive me, didn't see the model), older model. When I pulled up behind him, the brakes let out an ear piercing HUUUUUNNNNNN!!!!!!, him and his wife whipped around, and we heard him say "huh, his brakes squeal too!" Maybe its an old Merc thing ;)
 

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U1450L DOKA
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It is a Mercedes thing....
But still fixable.
Chamfering is just taking a file to the leading edge of each puck and putting a 45 degree
Angle, or rounding into a bullnose, depending on the expert, so there is a relief , and the
Rotor slides by the puck, and does not grab the 90 degree edge, making it dig and release,
Causing either a chatter or a Squeel .
Works sometimes on some cars with some pucks....
It's free....
 

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2015 Rubicon Unlimited (Let the shame be upon me!)
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Your mechanic is right, ish. As sometimes happens with a fresh cut rotor and box new pads, the two faces are damn near parallel which can lead to a the very leading edge of the pads touching first. I've never gotten a good answer as to why the pads do this but it leads to chatter and squeal. The simple solution is to break that edge a bit; hand file, bench grinder, tack hammer... The further solution is to cut some slots in the pad material, like 7/8 of the way down to the backing pad. These serve the same purpose as slots in the rotor; dust ejection. My old 635 would bark and chatter with track biased pads on fresh rotors until I stared doing this with brake changes, shut it right up.
 

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Unimog Moderator
250GD Wolf
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Or...use the exhaust brake for 95% of the braking, I'm getting really good at it...
 

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2015 Rubicon Unlimited (Let the shame be upon me!)
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You could do the same thing with some 20's and lo-pros.



Those might look mighty perty bolted up to the rockwells.
 

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Unimog U1300L Year unknown, but it has a Bundesheer rebuild plate dated 96
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Well My U1300L fronts squeal too!! but I know why, I used car type pads as replacement for the original Unimog ones which were well worn. This is to fit the fatter car pads you have to take out the shims, which I did (If you dont the pads will be too tight in the caliper, bind and get hot.....well mine did) without the shims the pads work great, but are prone to squealing, I could have chamfered but didn,t bother, may do so when I take the wheels off to do a really good check just before winter. (I think I have to replace the rear pads at about that time). On the up-side, the brake squeal suits this part of rural Eastern Poland well, errant pedestrians who may well step out in front of you are warned off at a goodly distance by a quick dab of the brakes.....likewise deaf or just plain stupid deer on the forest tracks which will not repond to the noise of a biggish diesel engine, will jump and flee at a quick dab of the sqealers.
 

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UNIMOG, Gelaendewagen
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The bedding technique Trucktor mentioned sounds legit, but isn't this procedure a little bit like "glazing" the brakes, which is no bueno?
 

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'78 Mog 416.141 DoKa
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Resurrection of an old thread alert.

My front brakes have been squeezing something fierce.
Since I'm late to the thread, someone may have already said it....but:

Go out on a nice straight road with nice wide shoulders, run the truck up to speed and HAMMER those brakes a few times. Whoa it all the way down to a crawl, then GET OFF the pedal and roll along for a while before running up to speed and doing it again.

You're sure it's pad squeal and not metal contact ?

(edit) Browsed the whole thread now - yes, doing a leading edge chamfer has helped some of my odd-ball rides in the past...

OH - if trying MY sure-fire bedding technique, be ready for some "odd handling characteristics" if you have uneven braking force from side to side :eclipsee_steering:
 

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UNIMOG, Gelaendewagen
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I'm pleased to report that the bedding technique worked like a charm. Still a little squeking while soft braking, but the howl is gone. Hopefully it stays that way. Thanks for the words of advise.
 

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'78 Mog 416.141 DoKa
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Did you pull the pads and file a chamfer on the lead edge, too ?
 

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UNIMOG, Gelaendewagen
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I started to, but found that they were pretty stuck with the anti squeal goop I initially put on. I figured I'd give this a shot first, then if needed id pull the pads and bevel them. Then last resort would be to bridge the calipers. As I said, I hopefully they remain quiet. I ended up doing ten hard stops from full speed and allowed everything to cool before coming to a full stop. It sounds like it sometimes can take a couple of rounds of this method to completely do the job.
 
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