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New to the forum..any thoughts on the following..2000 sprinter 5 cyl 2.9lt NOT commonrail. I have owned this van for 8 years, ex ambulance, now 158K. Trouble started at the end of a 500 km trip. Very little accelaration until 1600prm then drives like normal. Next lights and same thing. No warning lights on the dash. Started and idled well when it first happened. Sent to a non merc service centre that has servived this van for a number of years. He replaced the filter, no change...tested and no fault codes on his diagnostic gear. He sent the van to a diesle pump specialist who advised that pump and injectors seem OK. He sent the vehicle to auto trans specialist thinking the problem may lie there. Tested OK. He then suggested that I send he van to the Merc dealer. I did this who tested and found no fault codes. He had the van a number of weeks and advised that the Injector pump was faulty and needed replacing ($4k) I was sceptica,l having just had his chercked..Mrec dealer later advised he had exactly the same problem on another sprinter that just came in. I said I would wait until he fixed that one before commiting to a reco pump...Merc dealer later advised that the pump on the other sprinter was definately at fault but it was caused by a faulty electronic accelerator controller which sent too much current to the pump and 'fried' the electrics (another $2k to fix) I was again sceptical and picked up the van. When I picked it up it was very hard to start but idles OK and still no power until 1600 rpm. I then purchased a second hand accellerator actuator from the UK and installed that...no change. I went on line to 'ask a mechanic' and was advised that it may be the injectors or the turbo actuator? I ran the van and revved it hard. The pipe from the intercooler to the inlet manifold 'swelled' when I revved it hard. The actuator on the turbo did not move. I could not move the actuator by hand. This is where I think I made a poor situation worse!! While revving the engine I heard a small 'pop' sound and the engine died. I cannot restart at all. I was also told that maybe the 'o' rings on the fuel lines may be leaking air. I replaced the two 'o' rings at the fuel filter. I found that the origional ones were hard and black. The new ones were green. When I re installed the fuel lines to the filter they were considferably firmer to push in. I bled the system of air (?) but still it would not start. I could spray areo start into the inlet pipe and it would start on that but not run on diesel. I took the fuel line off no 1 injector and cranked the engine...fuel squirted out...I then cracked 2 and 3 and found fuel there also...still not starting. I checked the fuses under the steering colum and under the seat. All appear OK. The central locking still activates OK so I assume that the immobiliser is OK...Another thing..while changing the 'o'rings and generally looking around I saw an 'allen key' thing adjacent to the injector pump at the front of the casting the pump is mounted to. I found this to be loose and I tightened it about 3 turns...I don't know what this thing is. (air mix adjustment, timing??) what have I done??? I backed off this allen key to where I believe it may have been, but, still no go. If you have read this far you are a champion! If you have any thoughts I would be greatful.,
 

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It's shocking that dealerships can get away with handing a vehicle back having charged for a load of work and the vehicle to be running (or starting) worse than before!

I take it you haven't had the codes read since it gave up starting? It could be there is a real problem now.

Lack of power below 1600RPM, the turbo on these is not controlled by the ECU but I guess the wastegate or actuator could be stuck causing power loss. I assume these work on vaccum created by the turbo, might be worth seeing if you can get it to move using a hand vac pump on the hose.

The other thing that springs to mind is if the EGR valve is stuck open it would cause problems at low speeds but I'm sure that will generate a code.

Swelling turbo pipes will lose power too. I have no idea what the pop was, I assume you have checked the pipes?

Now the bit I can be sure of - the allen key thing you found adjusts the pump timing, by rotating the pump. Did you screw it up by fiddling with it? _Probably_ not. To adjust the pump you first have to slacken the bolt on the bracket to the engine and 3 bolts through the timing cover to the intermediate flange, if they were all still tight, you shouldn't have moved the pump at all, but best not fiddle with it again!

I don't know about the pop, if you have fuel to the injectors, compression and the starter will turn it over, it should run. Mine gave out in August and displayed similar symptoms - everything apprantly OK but no start, getting the codes read revealed knackered fuel temp sensor in the pump, fortunately these are replacable and a short time after we found it (and the electrician confirmed it) the garage had me up and running again, although with the misfire I am trying to resolve in another thread....
The failed sensor meant that although I had fuel coming out it wasn't at enough pressure to open the injectors, at least I think that was the conclusion.

I think you need the codes checked again, and/or a compression test in case you blew a gasket (seems unlikely).

Just noticed you posted in July - any luck so far?
 
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