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1990 Euro 560SEL
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My mechanic told me the rear spring struts (auto leveling shock) is shot and he is right. The car now rides like a dump truck over bumpy road.

I looked up the service manual and it lists four different types of struts for our car.

There's the version up to 7/88 with parts number 116 320 45 13 or 116 320 46 13 for the non USA or Japanese version a revised version of 126 320 48 13 for the non USA or Japanese version and 126 320 46 13 for the USA and Japanese version.

My question is instead of using the softer 126 320 48 13 for my 1990 Euro can I use the earlier version, (the 116 320 46 13 in particular which is 30% firmer in rebound and 50% firmer in compresserion rate) with out adjusting other system? This will look like a signficant handling improvement with a simple struts swap.


Thanks.
 

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I Think they might actually mount differently on the lower control arm as the early and later cars had different rear suspension set ups.

I'll look into this and see what i can find out for you.

Jonathan
 

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Smoke Silver '87 560SEC, Black Pearl '87 560SEL
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A hard ride, 99% of the time, is caused by bad accumulators. If he's verified your accumulators are in good shape, then maybe he's right, but I'd look into the accumulators and the self-leveling control valve before I did anything with the struts.
 

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1990 Euro 560SEL
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
mramay said:
A hard ride, 99% of the time, is caused by bad accumulators. If he's verified your accumulators are in good shape, then maybe he's right, but I'd look into the accumulators and the self-leveling control valve before I did anything with the struts.
Yes, I thought about that too. When I ask the mechanic, his response was bad accumulators will produce a bouncing rear end. It is the faulty strauts that gives the hard ride. The fact that body is rock solid but the rear wheels feels jumping up and down each time I drive over an expansion joint feels more like a probelm with the strauts.

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Bad accumulators can give a bouncy rear end but can also give a harsh ride , i.e. the opposite.

They are far far cheaper than the struts and probably due a renewal.

If you remove the small metal pipe going into each accumulator (11mm or 12mm spanner required) see if the oil that leaks out is normal hydraulic oil. If you get milky stuff and some gas/air leaking out too, then the acccumulator(s) is shot.

Also the rubber doughnuts on top of the strut (but below the body) do go bad over time. Very cheap and not too much work to replace. Might as well do these when the accumulators are done.


talbir
 

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Well, bad accumulators Start out by giving a bouncy ride..when they get REALLY bad they turn rock hard. Unless the rear struts are leaking they are not bad..

I'd start out w/ the accumulators..I Rarely see the struts go bad.

Jonathan
 
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If there are no leaks, and the bottle is full then I bet that car just needs an adjustment to the sensor. See it all the time.

I just put new hydro shocks on mine, however it was not because they were bad. It was becuase some jackel tried to put regular Monroe shocks on it!!

Mines was out of adjustment also. They get like that when they are towed or the valve armature gets knocked about in the back.

Are there any leaks?
Is there fluid in the system?
 

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