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Discussion Starter #22
A good reason to have good undercoating.
Actually, undercoating can simply mask the issue. Sometimes the rust is growing right under the surface of that beautiful looking black undercoating.
 

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It gives you pause when you read about guys going 100 mph+ in their aging W124s. I hope they don't end up dead or kill someone else.
As long as the aging W124 is in good shape, driving fast is not an issue. Been doing it for 6 years. Rather be in a 14 year old W124 than in a newer Japanese car (as safety is concerned)
 

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my 1994 e220 (w124) has just suffered a failed/rusted spring perch. I'm in the UK, can anyone help me source replacement parts please? 6 months ago i replaced both front springs with after market types, not lowered or anything like that, but when the perch failed, it also snapped the end off the spring. Fortunately, it failed while the car was stationary!!!!
Thanks
Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #25
my 1994 e220 (w124) has just suffered a failed/rusted spring perch. I'm in the UK, can anyone help me source replacement parts please? 6 months ago i replaced both front springs with after market types, not lowered or anything like that, but when the perch failed, it also snapped the end off the spring. Fortunately, it failed while the car was stationary!!!!
Thanks
Dan
My Iny didn't seem to have any trouble finding a new perch. At least I think it was a new one they had welded onto the car. I looked at the repair when they did the job, but now I can't even remember if was a new perch. I'm pretty sure it was a new one, rather than just a repair of the old one that I think was a bit twisted. I will take a look under my car and also ask my Indy on Monday where they sourced the perch.

I also had them re-weld the other front perch, even though it wasn't obviously failing. I think the perches may look ok even though they are about to rip right off of the car. I am just commenting on this because I think you should also weld the other perch. Honestly, for anyone living in the rust belt with snow and salted roads, I think I would weld the perches on a W124 before there is a problem. You could definitely be killed if the thing failed while you were driving at speed. The car just sits right down on top of the wheel, which definitely would not be a good thing if you were going 100 mph.
 

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Yup, about 6 months ago I had the passenger-side front upper perch let go. It made kinda a "twang" sound and I turned to the Wife and said "WTF". And then I found out as it made a kinda "BONG" sound and the spring shot out from under the car and accelerated up the road about 50 yards! Fortunately I was on a city street going about 30mph. Took it to my Indy and he welded a nice sized metal plate addition to the frame rail at the attachment point of the perch and then welded a new perch thereon. Also I ordered new struts and strut mounts (2 each) before he started the repair and had him install those, plus an alignment. $350usd. I purchased the '92 300E in Westchester County, NY about a year ago and knew that there was a "little" rust in spots underneath which I cleaned off (wirebrush) and applied some Krylon Rust Eater to those spots, but the spring perch rust was, as has been implied, UNDER the UNDERCOATING and I missed it. Checked the other side perch while it was on the rack and having the struts installed. CHECKED IT REALLY CLOSELY and it was clear of rust. Now I just have to figure out how to get the little make-believe quasi "glove box" off the center driveline "hump" in my 400E (they put the little make believe glove box there due to the fact that they couldn't figure out how to have a dash-mounted glove box along with a airbag in the dash). I gotta get the little sliding opening "glove box" outta the way so's I can remove the one little stinkin' screw so I can remove the zebrano wood panel that contains the power window switches, etc. so that I can remove the cheapo Becker radio so's that I can finally get some decent audio in that car. But, I digress, as I often do these days..........................
 

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BONG!

As long as the aging W124 is in good shape, driving fast is not an issue. Been doing it for 6 years. Rather be in a 14 year old W124 than in a newer Japanese car (as safety is concerned)
I don't think that "driving fast" is an issue here, as long as you are aware of, and have taken care of, the issue as being discussed. I'd rather NOT be in a "14 year old W124" if the freakin' spring is gonna pop out at 120mph.
just sayin'.....
 

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Now I just have to figure out how to get the little make-believe quasi "glove box" off the center driveline "hump" in my 400E (they put the little make believe glove box there due to the fact that they couldn't figure out how to have a dash-mounted glove box along with a airbag in the dash). I gotta get the little sliding opening "glove box" outta the way so's I can remove the one little stinkin' screw so I can remove the zebrano wood panel that contains the power window switches, etc. so that I can remove the cheapo Becker radio so's that I can finally get some decent audio in that car. But, I digress, as I often do these days..........................
There are two screws far forward in the box (inside)
 

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There are two screws far forward in the box (inside)
YES! By Golly, You Are Right. I just didn't have enough ambient light to see them little suckers! BINGO, problem solved. Thanks a Lot! :bowdown: Oh, and by the way, these two screws.........well, see, I'm a member of the ASME, and call my self an engineer, but why would these two screws be the very same screws that you'd screw sheetrock to metal studs with? Perhaps they POSSIBLY could be NOT OEM?:eek:
 

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I'm not sure I'd characterize the Becker as "cheapo", but as Dave suggested, none of the previously mentioned procedures seem very necessary for the task at hand
 

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Ahem. Uh, you know that the stock Becker radio can be removed without pulling any of the aforementioned items, right? It comes out without removing anything else, actually...

:eek:
Yea, I kinda figured that, but I wanted to have complete access to the wiring instead of having to work with whatever amount of it that came outta the empty space and, besides, I wanted to be able to get the window switches out and give them a good cleaning and I needed to get to the backside of the ashtray and replace a wire that had come loose. I'm glad that I did go ahead and pull the whole shebang out. The ground (the major grounding point, I assume, by looking at it) was only finger tight................kinda makes me think that, during the 20 years preceding my "intervention" that somebody else must have been messing around in there! I did find a little hand-written note in a 2"x2" piece of paper that said "Have a Nice Day" with a little "Smiley Face" drawn on it. So cute....!
 

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I'm not sure I'd characterize the Becker as "cheapo", but as Dave suggested, none of the previously mentioned procedures seem very necessary for the task at hand
Maybe I need to retract the "cheapo" comment (since I now have a very good, very marvelous, 100% German, Becker radio for sale..):rolleyes:
 

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My front passenger side spring perch just let go..
So has mine. I searched the forum and found numerous individuals that welded new perch's on. My issue is, I'm not sure there is good metal back there to do that. I can put my fingers right through it.

Question: Is there a strut/coil assembly that can replace this setup for a 94 E320?
 

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I don't know of a "replacement".

I notice that your coil spring is still where it is supposed to be, instead of, like mine, scooting off down the road AHEAD of your M-B (when mine "let go" it did so with gusto). My now favorite mechanical/body shop welded a plate on over the rusted area. They had to go out quite a bit, had to make a fairly large patch plate, to get to "good" metal, then it was just a matter of welding the original perch (the perch had not rusted away, just the mounting area for the perch) back in place. Of course, it required a good front end alignment also. I replaced the rubber coil spring "buffer" that the coil spring sits into and the strut on BOTH sides before performing the alignment. It looks, in your pictures, like the same (exact same) thing has happened to you and the repair that my guys performed would work well in your instance.
 

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Wow, that is really lousy. We will be seeing more and more of this as these cars age. This is not a very well done area on the car. I am not aware of any previous models that had a problem like this. My '89 has a similar issue but it looks like your rust might be a bit worse than mine. Interesting thing is that your perch hasn't started pulling away from the body yet. Maybe its an optical illusion if it is pulling away. I believe a good fabricator (body shop) should be able to repair something like this either with a Mercedes patch panel or by cutting out the offending area from another car. In my case, I am methodically learning how to MIG weld because I am a jerk and want to be self sufficient. I plan to weld in a couple of patches in place of the rust on my car. Then I will weld the new perch on. If this kind of repair costs $500 or so to get done professionally, I should have $500 into it between buying the welder, eating up gas and metal while I practice, and any of the other expenses, like buying a grinder, wire, a helmet, electricity, etc. etc. I'm hoping I can get it fixed and have some tools and experience to lean on in the future.

But back to your situation, I really hope you can get yourself out of this for reasonable cost. Better start driving around to get some estimates before the car can't be moved.
 

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Speaking of cost.........

......my repair cost me $300, including the front end alignment but not counting the new rubber spring mount cups and the new shocks.
 
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