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My 1300L speedometer is in kilometers and I would like to have MPH. I checked into having face changed to have both MPH and KPH, but it was pricy. A new unit with MPH from M-B is very pricy. I prefer the speedometer to a GPS alternative. Any solutions you'd care to share?
 

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I'd have to run out to the shop to check the details but I think my 421 speedo has a keyed and hinged face plate. If you can open up the glass covering your speedo you should be able to make a self adhesive sticker to put over the existing KPH scale. If this isn't something you'd be comfortable doing any competent graphic designer or sign place should be able to do this for you. You could even make is fancy or custom if you wanted to by choosing foreground, background colors and interesting fonts. The other advantage of this method is if you don't like the result you can easily remove it. Good luck.
 

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KPH to MPH

While you consider all or any of your options for a conversion, simply multiply your Km reading by 'Six' to get MPH. For examples: 80 kph (x 6) equals 48 mph; and, 37 kph (x 6) equals 22 MPH.

Cheers,
 

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BK Sadler said:
While you consider all or any of your options for a conversion, simply multiply your Km reading by 'Six...
assuming you are running OEM tire sizes
 

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why not use 16's & or 8's, i.e 8kph = 5mph (5.05mph) or 16kph = 10mph (10.1mph), 32kph = 20mph, 48kph = 30mph, 64kph = 40mph, 80kph = 50mph, 96kph = 60mph, etc, etc.

if you use PC's this should be easy, just think of bytes (kb, mb, gb)
 

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...I just stuck a laminated card to the dash that gives me KPH/MPH conversion every 5 KPH. By now, I've seen it so much, I don't need it anymore :)
 

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Mogasaurus said:
...I just stuck a laminated card to the dash...
That is what I did. Mine calculated also for tire change conversion as well. Course it burned up in the fire. I'll be using a GPS for the speedo replacement now most likely
 

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coachgeo said:
assuming you are running OEM tire sizes
Funny - mine was so far out of calibration that switching to 14.5x20's from the 12.5x20's actually brought it to within 1 MPH at 55 MPH.

The overspeed indicator light in the tachygraph (if you have one) is adjustable - you could set that to come on at whatever speed you wanted to be alerted to, regardless of what the meter says - I set mine to a GPS verified 55 MPH.
 

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Resurrecting an old thread......with new product. Those looking for the MPH speedo's might want to contact their spare parts dealers of choice. These units are available at about 13% of the current MB price...... somewhere around $50. Sean, Von, and Myself for sure have them, others may as well.

Expedition Imports Corporation Speedometer - MPH





Cheers,

Scott Ingham
 

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Calculate MPH intervals and make a clear static cling type decal better yet a transfer type decal. Stick it to the gauge glass. Should work nicely, look nice and cost you under 5 bucks

-Ike
 

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Re Resurrecting an old thread. My new 1300L has a non functioning Tachograph/speedometer. I ordered one of the surplus 419 speedometers that Scott from EI had mentioned previously. It fits the hole in the dash but the drive cable appears to be smaller than the one that drove the tachograph (The drive shaft is square and measures 0.266 CM (.10 inches across the flats, I don't have a good way of measuring the new speedometer drive hole). This is a late production 1300L with a UG3/65 gearbox if it makes a difference

Turns out the speedometer cable is not turning so that my next project is to see if it the cable, the ratio converter or something else.
 

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Re Resurrecting an old thread. My new 1300L has a non functioning Tachograph/speedometer. I ordered one of the surplus 419 speedometers that Scott from EI had mentioned previously. It fits the hole in the dash but the drive cable appears to be smaller than the one that drove the tachograph (The drive shaft is square and measures 0.266 CM (.10 inches across the flats, I don't have a good way of measuring the new speedometer drive hole). This is a late production 1300L with a UG3/65 gearbox if it makes a difference

Turns out the speedometer cable is not turning so that my next project is to see if it the cable, the ratio converter or something else.
Do you have the drive box that goes behind the speedo? If not, getting one is a solution. You will also need the adapter nut I think.

Assuming that the box you need is the 1:1 box, (like my U1300L) and that I am understanding correctly that you are facing the classic issue: the male piece is too small.

A cheaper solution than the gearbox from Ma'B, is to get some 3/16" 0.030" wall brass tubing (from memory, double check against your bits). Clean the end of the cable well, and us an appropriate Cyano-Acrylic, or similar, glue to put an appropriately long sheath on the cable end. Obviously this won't work if the male piece is too big, but that seems uncommon...

Worked for me. YMMV.

If you decide not to go that route, and want to buy a near new gearbox, I have one that I will make you a good deal on (I liked my redneck solution better, takes up less space.)

C.
 

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Thanks for the suggestion. Yup it definitely looks like the male cable is too small. No gearbox on mine behind the tachograph, its on the other end of the cable at the gearbox. My limited EPC skills shows a gearbox on the back of the speedometer/tachograph so it looks like I have an oddball. Its an ambulance with stock fast axles which may make a difference. I was told by George Bull (unimog center) that this is a late production 1300L that has some 1350 parts in it (like the gearbox and possibly the remote adjustable headlamps). Strange they would mess around with the tachograph but who knows;)

I will be checking the cable this weekend, if its broke I will get one on order and hope its not in the small gearbox on the speedo cable or something inside the transmission. I expect I will end up needing a speedo gearbox at some point as the speedometer I bought is I assume from the US military 419 stock and don't think the 419s had fast axles. I expect at some point larger tires or an overdrive is in the cards but it sure would be nice to have a working speedometer even if it reads wrong. Once its spinning I can easily make up an adaptor card. It really doesn't match the other gauges (light versus dark background) but sure looks better then the tachograph which hangs out of the dash about 2".

I do like your suggested fix. I was thinking epoxy putty but really would like a way of getting the cable out in the future. I may PM you on your gearbox once I have the fix isolated.
 

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Well, my quest for an indication of speed has gotten more interesting. The cable was definitely frozen so I replaced it. I optimistically took the 1300 for a ride and no speed indication. That's odd, so I pulled the techograph and the cable wasn't turning. On this model the speedometer cable gearbox is bolted to the transmission with two different output shafts. I unbolt the gearbox and find a broken off tang on the input shaft from the transmission. The gearbox is also jammed. So much for a quick fix. Its time to start studying the service manual to see if it shows the speedometer drive.

If anyone has run into this before, there is large nut where the speedometer drive shaft is bolted to the transmission. If I take this off, can I replace this short driveshaft or is it a pull the transmission project?
 

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On my transmission, the shaft (short shaft, speedometer drive) can be lifted out once that big nut and speedometer correction box is taken off.

The UG2/30-8/14,44 looks similar, take a look:
speedodrive.jpg

Looks like a bushing, seal, few other small parts, here's the list (again, for a 417, consult the SEE manuals for those part numbers I'd guess?)

speedodrive2.jpg

Mine turned out to be the speedometer correction box, it was all piled up inside (no lubrication or anything inside, weird...), once I removed the correction box I had my wife drive the Unimog slowly down the driveway while I checked the speedometer drive (though I did lift it out and check it for damage, it was fine, to put it in you have to kind of twist it to get the worm gear or whatever kind of gear to mesh) and was able to verify it was turning just fine, albeit slowly. A tipper box helps with this operation in my case, tipped the box up and out of the way.
 
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