I think it may be impossible to get to the cable connection at the T Case without removing the vibration damper. I couldn't do it and I'm fairly creative. To remove the damper you need an open end 14mm wrench and an open end 13 mm wrench. The 14 mm holds the bolt head end from spinning accessed from the back of the damper. The bolts are captive in the flange but they spin. The 13mm wrench fits the nuts on the other end and a long wrench is best for torque. Use very precise fitting tools. If you roach the nuts you are in big trouble. It is very tedious one flat at a time turning. These metric super fine thread sizes are not at all locally available in my area. At all. An MB part that costs a lot for what they are. It is possibe if you have a non fuctioning cable that the drive connected to the T case might be the issue. Once you have the driveshaft off and the damper out of the way you have access to the cable collar nut. Loosen it and the cable can be removed. You can test the drive by rotating the output flange of the T case making sure the cable drive is turning. If it isn't it may be due to a siezed worm gear. I hope your issue is just the cable. Load the end of the cable with grease to minimize the possibility of water entry there. Deep fording can kill the drive. It is somewhat tricky to install the damper because the bolt can slide forward and lock against the case. Wraping a rope around the bolt heads to hold them from sliding might help. It takes patience to take apart and put back on. Best of luck,
-Dai
-Dai
