Could you give us more details about your timing chain replacement...ie: some steps involved,.. and a timeline in what it took to complete this job ?
Spark Plugs
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A150, A180 and B200 CVT, A140, A160, A170,A190 And A210
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Replacing the timing chain was the easy part compared to the spark plug job, honest.
i took many pictures as I promised earlier, but lost most of them.
Watch this video of stretched chain.
https://www.facebook.com/aclassForrera/videos/1669639303135169/?t=6
i took many pictures as I promised earlier, but lost most of them.
Watch this video of stretched chain.
https://www.facebook.com/aclassForrera/videos/1669639303135169/?t=6
Is replacing the timing chain much like the earlier MB engines, remove chain tensioner, find joining link, attach new chain to link, rotate engine till new chain in, join link and replace tensioner?
The old engines were a breeze to work on, these don’t seem as friendly lol.
A150, A180 and B200 CVT, A140, A160, A170,A190 And A210
Joined
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607 Posts
They're not that easy unfortunately.
The point I was making is that replacing the spark plugs on B200 turbo is very hard, even with dealers standard.
This car was meant to have the plugs replaced 2 years ago at the dealer as part of a major service, but I had doubts and I think when the mechanic realized it was a mission impossible he left both turbo and steering rack heat shields loose, which explains the rattling noise.
Also ht lead number one was loose and triggered misfire fault code.
That's my problem when it comes to others working on my cars,...because it's not their car,.... they often don't take care...
I always have to recheck the work that was done by others....and if possible, I always try to do the work myself..
Yes, it is indeed the hard way. I tried the M-B way, but couldn't get the car high enough safely to even have a chance at lowering the subframe. The car actually slipped off the jack stands at the front (I was raising the car back and forth switching between front and back since my floor jack only went so high.
I saw a video of a guy pulling the engine and transaxle from the top. Was like a one minute youtube video, didn't help much. Out of options, I had to at least try.
I've added a couple more short videos on my channel. One is about the fender bracket and the other about the steering shaft to steering gear input shaft.
I hope to take videos of the assembly. I'm just too busy learning and trying to take everything out.
Too many steps but not crazy bad. No real surprises. Wasn't happy that the whole steering rack had to come off. A few more to go. My notes so far. Yes, quite rough:
edit: Not sure if in notes but the condenser needs to be disconnected. So obviously you need to pass by an AC shop to have the system emptied/collected. Bottom fitting to cylinder (receiver/dryer?) was tough to disconnect after removing the bolt. Also, the bumper reinforcement bolts, one of them, doesn't come all the way out with the headlight lenses on. You may be able to remove the plastic with the headlights on it if you don't want to remove the headlights (screwing up your headlight aim). No guarantees you won't end up messing the aim anyway.
I saw a video of a guy pulling the engine and transaxle from the top. Was like a one minute youtube video, didn't help much. Out of options, I had to at least try.
I've added a couple more short videos on my channel. One is about the fender bracket and the other about the steering shaft to steering gear input shaft.
I hope to take videos of the assembly. I'm just too busy learning and trying to take everything out.
Too many steps but not crazy bad. No real surprises. Wasn't happy that the whole steering rack had to come off. A few more to go. My notes so far. Yes, quite rough:
edit: Not sure if in notes but the condenser needs to be disconnected. So obviously you need to pass by an AC shop to have the system emptied/collected. Bottom fitting to cylinder (receiver/dryer?) was tough to disconnect after removing the bolt. Also, the bumper reinforcement bolts, one of them, doesn't come all the way out with the headlight lenses on. You may be able to remove the plastic with the headlights on it if you don't want to remove the headlights (screwing up your headlight aim). No guarantees you won't end up messing the aim anyway.
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It's really not too bad - I know I'm repeating myself. It's just many little steps. Some are easier than others. You run into some snags, but you figure them out. I added a couple YouTube videos of the fender to bumper bracket and the steering shaft to rack input shaft, because I had to figure those out without seeing them before. Sometimes it's the routine stuff that gives you problems. For example, the driver's side tie rod didn't want to release from the steering knuckle. I have the proper tie rod/ball joint tool, but I had to apply quite a bit of force (while tapping the knuckle on the side to create vibration) for it to pop. Also, I wasn't looking forward to removing the inner tie rods (yet another step). Luckily, once you remove the long heat shield on the rack, you can slide it over to the passenger side and pull it off with the tie rods still on by fishing it out through the center. I'll add a video about that during installation.
I'm taking notes, and as much as possible, put bolts back in their spot after the part is removed, or label them (especially trim clips).
Cordless electric impact and a couple of air tools help quite a bit.
I'm taking notes, and as much as possible, put bolts back in their spot after the part is removed, or label them (especially trim clips).
Cordless electric impact and a couple of air tools help quite a bit.
Sorry to continue off topic, but the engine is out!
Didn't take many pics, will update when I have some time.
Had to remove the air pump (under the w/w tank) because it's in the way. Also unplugged the ABS module to get the plug and harness out of the way.
Supported the engine, removed rear and front mounts completely, and had to remove arm on front driver side that attaches between the mount and the engine.
Disconnected the AC compressor refrigerant lines (system was empty) and plug. Removed nearby ground wire.
Raised the engine and had to tilt it as the transaxle has to clear the subframe. Removed the belt (should have done earlier).
Removed AC compressor, then alternator. With engine lifted away, you have access to the starter wiring. Engine out.
Didn't take many pics, will update when I have some time.
Had to remove the air pump (under the w/w tank) because it's in the way. Also unplugged the ABS module to get the plug and harness out of the way.
Supported the engine, removed rear and front mounts completely, and had to remove arm on front driver side that attaches between the mount and the engine.
Disconnected the AC compressor refrigerant lines (system was empty) and plug. Removed nearby ground wire.
Raised the engine and had to tilt it as the transaxle has to clear the subframe. Removed the belt (should have done earlier).
Removed AC compressor, then alternator. With engine lifted away, you have access to the starter wiring. Engine out.
Thanks for taking the time to explain this so well..I knew that with all part tolerances so tight,..it would not be a picnic...
Great work..(so far..)..and good luck...
I guess if I had removed the stabilizer bar mounts, I could have lowered the subframe. Nothing else was on it, once the engine was supported and the engine mounts removed. Would have made the engine easier to slide forward (the transaxle was lower than the subframe and was catching it).
Will hopefully have some time in the next couple days to 'open er up'.
Will hopefully have some time in the next couple days to 'open er up'.
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So, I've had the Baby Benz for 10 days now. The rough running related to a code P0304, which is a mis-fire on cylinder #4. Suspecting the spark-plug, but now knowing if the car had new or old plugs, and if it might be a plug-wire or coil, I picked up a single AC Delco Iridium plug on the way into my shop. I'll show the new plug and the old plug. The computer was reading 8.5 litres/100k on the way to work, with AC off, and 7.5 litres/100k on the way home with AC on, after changing that one plug. So, I bought 3 more plugs.
Have you ever seen anything this sad? What are the odds that plugs have never been changed? (car has 154,000 kms on it)
The new plug can be seen in a socket on top of an HP large-format plotter (for sale ... cheap!) and behind it are the wheels off my '93 300CE Cabrio.
How do you think they'd look on the B200? (300CE photo thrown in to see them on a car)
Have you ever seen anything this sad? What are the odds that plugs have never been changed? (car has 154,000 kms on it)
The new plug can be seen in a socket on top of an HP large-format plotter (for sale ... cheap!) and behind it are the wheels off my '93 300CE Cabrio.
How do you think they'd look on the B200? (300CE photo thrown in to see them on a car)
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So to pull my unserviceable CVT transmission out I am going to have to pull the engine? Seems like it would be easier to sell the girl for parts.
You don't have to remove the engine. There is a revised service procedure. But you still have to lower the axle carrier (where the control arms, steering box, and engine/transmission mount). So the engine DOES have to be supported (from bottom), as well as the rad/condenser from the top). A few other things have to be done before lowering the axle carrier. Very labour intensive, and you NEED a hoist.
I am now officially advising anyone not to do a big job like this unless crazy or crazy competent.
I am now officially advising anyone not to do a big job like this unless crazy or crazy competent.
Back on topic, lol!
When I replaced the spark plugs, two of them broke at the insulator where it meets the metal where the socket goes! Even the easy stuff sometimes goes sideways. I think I may have been a little rough when pulling the spark plug boots (at the boots mind you). Had to use needle-nose pliers to pull the insulator from the boot. I was using the proper socket (with rubber insert) by the way.
When I replaced the spark plugs, two of them broke at the insulator where it meets the metal where the socket goes! Even the easy stuff sometimes goes sideways. I think I may have been a little rough when pulling the spark plug boots (at the boots mind you). Had to use needle-nose pliers to pull the insulator from the boot. I was using the proper socket (with rubber insert) by the way.
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