Of course those days, I just had to drive and/or get it stuck.
Some pics from my old mog days
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
I believe that's the "safari top". Double shell design allows for a void space and voila thermal insulation layer.
The crane pic was from 1991 in Nigeria. Crane a HIAB 050.
The others are from Kazakstan 92-93. +50C in Summer, -45C in Winter.
The double roof is "Tropical Roof" option. It makes the inside of the mog significantly cooler when working in hot climates. The DOKAs were used for us as survey trucks and line checker trucks, so they were spending a lot of time standing in the sun.
Unfortunately I haven't scanned the slides yet that show 416,s on tiny Italian mountain roads or in the middle of Rotterdam.
Of course people only take pictures when you get stuck. My favorite is the water crossing, because the first GAZ getting stuck caused the URAL and then my mog, then the mechanic's mog with the big Rotzler winch to get stuck. finally 2 D9 equivalent Russian dozers took care of the mess (pulling, not burrying!)
The others are from Kazakstan 92-93. +50C in Summer, -45C in Winter.
The double roof is "Tropical Roof" option. It makes the inside of the mog significantly cooler when working in hot climates. The DOKAs were used for us as survey trucks and line checker trucks, so they were spending a lot of time standing in the sun.
Unfortunately I haven't scanned the slides yet that show 416,s on tiny Italian mountain roads or in the middle of Rotterdam.
Of course people only take pictures when you get stuck. My favorite is the water crossing, because the first GAZ getting stuck caused the URAL and then my mog, then the mechanic's mog with the big Rotzler winch to get stuck. finally 2 D9 equivalent Russian dozers took care of the mess (pulling, not burrying!)
HIAB 050
Forgot: Hiab 050 roughly 3t at short rigger (2m), 1t at 5m (20 years ago, so i might be a little off)
Forgot: Hiab 050 roughly 3t at short rigger (2m), 1t at 5m (20 years ago, so i might be a little off)
Looks like my long term memory remembering crane specs after 20 years is doing better than my short term one.
Unfortunately, the Safari Top is just a single layer, fiberglass cap that provides no thermal advantage other than fiberglass vs metal. The raised height does, however, provide a good amount of room for added insulation or soundproofing.
If you see the sunroof pic, you will see where the original metal roof line is, as well as the metal roof support. From the side, you can see how the Safari Top mounts above the gutters...
Attachments
mogless, except for my friends MB4-94. And a bunch of other diesel junk.
Joined
·
2,513 Posts
itjobhunter, the pic you posted, the roof looks different from the ones posted at the top of the thread. Looks to be more of a cap, not a true safari roof like those posted by BloodyGerman.
Hi Von,
Yes, it's a 3 way (I ALWAYS wanted a 3 way, but back to the mog) tipper. I don't have a cylinder for it or hydraulics - that's 3 major projects away!
Bryan
Yes, it's a 3 way (I ALWAYS wanted a 3 way, but back to the mog) tipper. I don't have a cylinder for it or hydraulics - that's 3 major projects away!
Bryan
Safari roof I think is a landrover design, never really seen many other cars/trucks with them. Basic idea safari roof gets hot and thin layer of air in between provides insulation. It basically just prevents the sun heating the cabin too much, Safari roof gets the sun normal roof in the shade.
The pic of the 416 doka is just a modified roof giving extra head room.
sam
The pic of the 416 doka is just a modified roof giving extra head room.
sam
Actually Mack built trucks used by the military during WWII (6X4 commercial variant, LJ I think, not 6X6 NO) that had an extra sheet of steel above the standard hard cab roof as a thermal barrier. You can see pictures in the book US Military Wheeled Vehicles. These were, I think, used in North Africa. Maybe my time frames are off a bit, but that's the earliest commercial vehicle I've seen.
OOOOH, that water one gives me shivers, seeing that quicksand. In was out swimming the Stalwart one time and was crossing a sand bar when I felt the front wheels just suddenly drop. There was not enough water to float and just too much to have enough weight on the axles for good traction, also not a winch point in sight. Quick reverse gear selection and back out with wheels and full reverse water jets saved my butt, don't think the Coast Guard could have helped at all.
1973 416 Doka, 1978 416 Doka, 1980 416 Doka..... Help me, I can't stop buying them!!!
Joined
·
2,711 Posts
Bryan, I don't think that you can dump out the back with that bed, it will hit the frame. I have the same long frame on the new hotrod truck I am building for myself. (look on my website under "Current Projects") In order for it to dump out the rear, I am stretching the spyder frame and moving the rear mounting post on the bed back to match the spyder frame. The dump cyl. will now be on the other side of the "X" in the spyder frame, but you can mount it on either side. Hope to rebuild my bed and do this work soon, and I will post it on my website.
mogless, except for my friends MB4-94. And a bunch of other diesel junk.
Joined
·
2,513 Posts
Von, I ran into the same debacle when mounting the spider frame on my 416, and I seem to recall that docfranco here had a similar bed, with weird pivots and questions. On my 416 there were 2 positions to mount the spider frame. The forward most was as itjobhunter pictured and would only allow the bed to tip to the side because of the long overhang. I chose the rear most position, and extended the front spider frame pivots towards the cab, and built my bed to fit. If you could move the spider frame to the rear, might it not be easier to just cut the pivot sockets from the bed and remount them as needed?
1973 416 Doka, 1978 416 Doka, 1980 416 Doka..... Help me, I can't stop buying them!!!
Joined
·
2,711 Posts
Seth,
On a Doka, the spyder frame is already in the factory rear position. But on the longer road truck frames, where the frame sticks out past the rear wheels. The only way to make the box dump, is to either widen the spider frame, or get another set of mounts that bolt on to the rear of the frame to make another pivot point that is closer to the end of the bed. Which would then give you three per side. I think it is a cleaner job and puts the cyl. where it needs to be, by just widening the spyder frame to fit. I will still need to move the mount post on the bed, but I planned on that anyway. As I plan on leaving two extra inches between the cab and bed, for my exhaust stack! So my new bed star was made to make the change and still keep the cyl. mount where it needs to be.
Folks,
from personal experience (2 years seismic in Russia/Kazakhstan), ZIL and GAZ trucks are not something you want to touch. They make a Bedford look good.
I have never come across a stock GAZ or ZIL with a diesel engine either.
Of course a KAMAZ or URAL are a different story. Those are great trucks.
from personal experience (2 years seismic in Russia/Kazakhstan), ZIL and GAZ trucks are not something you want to touch. They make a Bedford look good.
I have never come across a stock GAZ or ZIL with a diesel engine either.
Of course a KAMAZ or URAL are a different story. Those are great trucks.
mogless, except for my friends MB4-94. And a bunch of other diesel junk.
Joined
·
2,513 Posts
Von, I think I'm following you. Is your yellow doka a standard 416 wheelbase, or the longer one? Seems that with the doka/ standard cab, 406 or 416 wheel base, maybe a hiab crane behind the bed, or a slightly longer 416 frame there a lot of variables to consider as to what bed/frame combo fits what (or was intended to fit), and how it fits/ mounts.
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
