Hello all. My drivers side door only no longer soft closes all other door and trunk work properly.
Thanks
Thanks
Soft close problem 2004 S430
BUTO651
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W220 S430, W211 E320, W126 560 SEC, W126 420 SEL, W124 300E, W201 190 2.3-16v yep I love them all
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my rear passenger side at times does not soft close & at the same time that happens window will not roll up or down either from drivers door or rear door switch. I do however hear like the motor wants to engage then stops quickly. any ideas?
HI I HAVE A QUESTION FOR U AND HOPE U CAN HELP ME OUT.MY DRIVER DOOR ON 2001 S500 M.BENZ HAS BROKEN SUCKIN PART OF MY LOCK.I AM TRYING TO REMOVE IT FROM DOOR BUT CANNOT DO IT BECAUSE THERE IS NO PLACE TO PULL IT OUT.THERE IS WINDOW GUIDE IN MY WAY AND DOES NOT ALLOW PULL THE LOCK OUT FROM INSIDE OF DOOR.THE WINDOW GUIDE IS ON RIVETES- NOT ON SCREWS.DO I NEED TO DRILL IT OUT TO BE ABLE TO GET THE LOCK OUT?
CAN U SOMEHOW EXPLAIN IT PLEASE AND MAYBE SEND ME A PICTURES OR DIAGRAMS WITH INSTRUCTIONES TO DO THIS PLEASE.IF U HAVE DIAGRAMS FOR THIS CAR WOULD U SEND ME ALL OF THEM ABOUT THIS CAR PLEASE?
WELL THANK U VERY MUCH FOR ANY ANSWER -THANKS
BO
CAN U SOMEHOW EXPLAIN IT PLEASE AND MAYBE SEND ME A PICTURES OR DIAGRAMS WITH INSTRUCTIONES TO DO THIS PLEASE.IF U HAVE DIAGRAMS FOR THIS CAR WOULD U SEND ME ALL OF THEM ABOUT THIS CAR PLEASE?
WELL THANK U VERY MUCH FOR ANY ANSWER -THANKS
BO
Bohous,
Typing in all capitals is regarded on most forums, including this one, as shouting and is rude. Please release your caps lock key when you post here.
Second, this is an international forum. "Texting" abbreviations and slang terms may not always be clear to our members. They should be avoided.
Last, toward the top of the main W220 forum there is a section called "stickies." Those are threads that do not move down the page when they age; they always remain "stuck" at the top. One of those stickies is an excellent thread showing videos of removal of various panels. You may have to remove the door panel to get to what is wrong with your lock. The videos will help.
Also in the stickies is a thread called the W220 S-Class Encyclopedia, which contains organized links to the best of our members' contributions to troubleshooting our cars. I hope you find it useful as well. Among other things it contains links to the full Mercedes Electronic Parts Catalog, which carries a free subscription and has exploded parts and assembly diagrams; and information about how to sign up for a 1-day subscription to the Startek information system, the "shop manual" used by Mercedes shops. Other sources are listed as well.
Your request for "all diagrams" about this car involves a massive amount of information. We are happy to help, but that is a bit much. The links in the Encyclopedia tell you how to get it without seriously inconveniencing our members.
Typing in all capitals is regarded on most forums, including this one, as shouting and is rude. Please release your caps lock key when you post here.
Second, this is an international forum. "Texting" abbreviations and slang terms may not always be clear to our members. They should be avoided.
Last, toward the top of the main W220 forum there is a section called "stickies." Those are threads that do not move down the page when they age; they always remain "stuck" at the top. One of those stickies is an excellent thread showing videos of removal of various panels. You may have to remove the door panel to get to what is wrong with your lock. The videos will help.
Also in the stickies is a thread called the W220 S-Class Encyclopedia, which contains organized links to the best of our members' contributions to troubleshooting our cars. I hope you find it useful as well. Among other things it contains links to the full Mercedes Electronic Parts Catalog, which carries a free subscription and has exploded parts and assembly diagrams; and information about how to sign up for a 1-day subscription to the Startek information system, the "shop manual" used by Mercedes shops. Other sources are listed as well.
Your request for "all diagrams" about this car involves a massive amount of information. We are happy to help, but that is a bit much. The links in the Encyclopedia tell you how to get it without seriously inconveniencing our members.
I believe the post titled "Replacing Front Door Lock Actuator" addresses your question, under the "Body" heading of the W220 S-Class Encyclopedia I referred you to.
One problem we may be having is that I don't really understand the latest problem, from your description, or what it is you are trying to accomplish. My understanding is that your door lock pin on the upper part of the door has gotten pulled into the door. If you remove the door panel, per the video I referred you to, you should be able to put the lock back in place.
If you need to remove and replace the entire mechanism, the references provided should help you. The post titled Replacing the Front Door Lock Actuator discusses your problem, as I understand it, beginning with post #22 - and it does discuss removal of the window tracks. Your earlier posts from 2010 show you're pretty familiar with the mechanism.
If, on the other hand you want to disable the soft close mechanism, I suggest you disconnect the vacuum lines to it, and plug them. If you disconnect them and leave them open you will eventually burn out your PSE pump.
One problem we may be having is that I don't really understand the latest problem, from your description, or what it is you are trying to accomplish. My understanding is that your door lock pin on the upper part of the door has gotten pulled into the door. If you remove the door panel, per the video I referred you to, you should be able to put the lock back in place.
If you need to remove and replace the entire mechanism, the references provided should help you. The post titled Replacing the Front Door Lock Actuator discusses your problem, as I understand it, beginning with post #22 - and it does discuss removal of the window tracks. Your earlier posts from 2010 show you're pretty familiar with the mechanism.
If, on the other hand you want to disable the soft close mechanism, I suggest you disconnect the vacuum lines to it, and plug them. If you disconnect them and leave them open you will eventually burn out your PSE pump.
ok my bad-i need to change the whole lock mechanism-its broken at the bottom of it where the white round thing connects tothe black .
simply told it doesnot suck my door in(soft close).there is a metal bar (guide) for window to slide and its in a way that the lock cannot be rwemoved .so i had to drill out revits to be able to get the lock out-simple as that-but was not sure if it is a must.all the videos here i found is just how to remove interior panel out of door.pictures here are just for rear door which are very well done for the job-but cannot be used for front door lock removal its very different.i will keep looking and will try to post some pictures here so people can see how to do it.but have no pic.yet neithe time.
i dont see reason people to be offendet by writting capitals letters-its even more vissible-but does not hurt me to write this way at all-did not have any idea about forum rules like this-thought just not to say bad words which here is no reason for it -everybody is cool here helping to another.i do not see any slang i have written here it may be because i am not english born speaking person its not my native language,just trying my best with what i know.
have a good day and thanks for keeping informations rolling
simply told it doesnot suck my door in(soft close).there is a metal bar (guide) for window to slide and its in a way that the lock cannot be rwemoved .so i had to drill out revits to be able to get the lock out-simple as that-but was not sure if it is a must.all the videos here i found is just how to remove interior panel out of door.pictures here are just for rear door which are very well done for the job-but cannot be used for front door lock removal its very different.i will keep looking and will try to post some pictures here so people can see how to do it.but have no pic.yet neithe time.
i dont see reason people to be offendet by writting capitals letters-its even more vissible-but does not hurt me to write this way at all-did not have any idea about forum rules like this-thought just not to say bad words which here is no reason for it -everybody is cool here helping to another.i do not see any slang i have written here it may be because i am not english born speaking person its not my native language,just trying my best with what i know.
have a good day and thanks for keeping informations rolling
Thanks for clarifying. Unfortunately I do not have good photos or diagrams to show you. Perhaps someone has the detailed instructions for removing the entire mechanism from the WIS or some other authoritative source, and can post it (or you can sign up for the WIS - Workshop Information System) for one day, and download the instructions. See http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/home.jsp
The instructions I read for other body styles indicated that one had to drill out rivets in the window track in order to replace the lock mechanism - but I do not know if that holds true for the W220.
Please don't worry about English not being your first language. You do very well with it, and we'll keep working with you until we "get" it.
The instructions I read for other body styles indicated that one had to drill out rivets in the window track in order to replace the lock mechanism - but I do not know if that holds true for the W220.
Please don't worry about English not being your first language. You do very well with it, and we'll keep working with you until we "get" it.
I have a question. Sometimes my driver door stops working but pulling fuse 20 always fixes it for an indefinite amount of time(sometimes 30 minutes, sometimes a week) I'm getting a bit tired of pulling the fuse all the time and this is the only door that has this issue of not self closing, I don't think it is the actuator because I can't hear any air and it still works after I replace the fuse, what do you think is the problem and what is a possible solution?
Despite not hearing it, you could still have a leak. It may be a small one. After you reset the fuse, your PSE pump could be running too long; you risk burning it out. The extra running time may close the door, but you're not solving the problem.
Thank you for the reply, I have been wondering what has been going on for about a month now.
How to turn off soft close for an air leaking door
Hi all. I've been a long time member but this is probably my first post. Anyway, I recently developed a problem with my 2001 W220 passenger door. I followed the suggestions for the rear seat fuse reset only to find out that I have an air leak. I was better off not resetting it, but, at least now I know what's the problem. Anyway, how can I disable the soft close for that door again? The reason why I want to do this is to avoid burning my pump. Thank you in advance.
Hi all. I've been a long time member but this is probably my first post. Anyway, I recently developed a problem with my 2001 W220 passenger door. I followed the suggestions for the rear seat fuse reset only to find out that I have an air leak. I was better off not resetting it, but, at least now I know what's the problem. Anyway, how can I disable the soft close for that door again? The reason why I want to do this is to avoid burning my pump. Thank you in advance.
If the air pump runs for more than the needed time to pressurize a line whether it was a door or a seat it will de-activate that line in order to protect the pump untill you fix that line. this happened to my driver's door lock; the pump kept on running for all the other doors and when I replaced the soft closing lock in the driver's door everything went back to its normal position:thumbsup:
Alternatively, you could pull the fuse and leave it out until you have made the repair. There is not a simple way to deactivate soft close for just one door.
To do that would require going into the door and disconnecting the vacuum lines, and plugging them. If you're going to do that, you may as well fix the leak.
To do that would require going into the door and disconnecting the vacuum lines, and plugging them. If you're going to do that, you may as well fix the leak.
Warren, correct me if I'm wrong. In my car when I had a problem with soft close for the driver's door when I was unplugging and replugging the fuse I could hear a hissing sound from the driver's door for about 5 to 10 seconds and after two to three repetitions the soft closing stops working for the driver's door only untill i changed the lock which was broken from inside.
Did the pump in that case deactivate that vacuum line?
The pump itself cannot selectively disable an individual vacuum line or door. In all likelihood, you leak was small enough that the pump could develop enough vacuum for the soft close for the remaining doors, but not the driver's door.
when my driver door soft close mech.broke it was a big brake not at the tube but at the bottom of the large plasticconnection.this is what i think=when you shut your door all the way in it will actually by-pas soft door clossing so there is no way to here any sound of leak-but if you only shut your door half way the door makes hissing sound for a while than sould stop itself.actually my passanger door just broke recently about a month ago so I did nothink to it yet and dont know if ever will.but my pump does not run forever or any longer than should. I think if you just close your door all the way you will be fine
I have problem after fixing my driver door myself I could not get my door lock out of door so i cut the yellow line in the middle with knife-than i pu it back together and at the cut install rubber hose (very tight)with clamp on each end-now when i disconect battery and reconect the soft door works for about 10 times to close the door than it stops working and i have to shut my door just like it was a regullar car. at the same time i took lock out of door i forgot to disconnect my battery and i had to disconnect airbag wire-now inside my car is +SRS+ light on -does ayone know or has imiges of removat door lock properly?how to instructiones for MB 2001 S500.and can you help me to erase SRS light please + can you tell me how to disconnect the yellow tube for the mechanism so I can put a new one please and thank you everyone
thank you
I have problem after fixing my driver door myself I could not get my door lock out of door so i cut the yellow line in the middle with knife-than i pu it back together and at the cut install rubber hose (very tight)with clamp on each end-now when i disconect battery and reconect the soft door works for about 10 times to close the door than it stops working and i have to shut my door just like it was a regullar car. at the same time i took lock out of door i forgot to disconnect my battery and i had to disconnect airbag wire-now inside my car is +SRS+ light on -does ayone know or has imiges of removat door lock properly?how to instructiones for MB 2001 S500.and can you help me to erase SRS light please + can you tell me how to disconnect the yellow tube for the mechanism so I can put a new one please and thank you everyone
thank you
Best car forum ever!
All but one door was not soft closing and the trunk lid was also not soft closing.
I pulled the Yellow 20amp fuse, waited a few seconds, replaced it and all doors and trunk lid are soft closing!
I heard the pump run for about 5 seconds after I closed the drivers door and that pressurized the system.
Several opening and closing cycles of all doors and trunk lid later and it continues to function properly.
Thank you BenzWorld!
All but one door was not soft closing and the trunk lid was also not soft closing.
I pulled the Yellow 20amp fuse, waited a few seconds, replaced it and all doors and trunk lid are soft closing!
I heard the pump run for about 5 seconds after I closed the drivers door and that pressurized the system.
Several opening and closing cycles of all doors and trunk lid later and it continues to function properly.
Thank you BenzWorld!
W220 S430, W211 E320, W126 560 SEC, W126 420 SEL, W124 300E, W201 190 2.3-16v yep I love them all
Joined
·
44 Posts
just had the same problem & all I did was pull the 20 amp fuse waited 5 minutes put it back in and now it is working. we will see just how long it will work for or if there's another problem. thank you
Hi,
Good info in here as usual. I disconnected the battery and my front passenger door soft closed properly; however, I heard a hissing noise for about 5-10 seconds after it was shut. I'm guessing there's a leak and I was wondering if anyone knew the approximate cost to fix this problem, thanks.
Good info in here as usual. I disconnected the battery and my front passenger door soft closed properly; however, I heard a hissing noise for about 5-10 seconds after it was shut. I'm guessing there's a leak and I was wondering if anyone knew the approximate cost to fix this problem, thanks.
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