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Discussion Starter #1
I know someone had a thread about this not so long ago, but I can't seem to find it. So I have a few questions.

1) Can one check the quality of the oil themselves, i.e. by using an oil dip stick? And if so, can it be done by placing the stick through the opening I've marked in red in the picture below (yes, I know the 55 comes with an electronic OIL check activated by the intrument cluster, but what I wanna see is how clear the oil is).

2) Is it through this same opening that one adds more oil?

3) What oil should one add? I think it was Mobil 1, but I would like to know the 'exact' grade of oil, and also how much oil the engine takes (in quarts or liters, whatever you wish to give a number for).

Cheers [:)]
 

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Shinigami - 4/4/2005 2:40 PM

I know someone had a thread about this not so long ago, but I can't seem to find it. So I have a few questions.

1) Can one check the quality of the oil themselves, i.e. by using an oil dip stick? And if so, can it be done by placing the stick through the opening I've marked in red in the picture below (yes, I know the 55 comes with an electronic OIL check activated by the intrument cluster, but what I wanna see is how clear the oil is).
not too sure
2) Is it through this same opening that one adds more oil?
yes
3) What oil should one add? I think it was Mobil 1, but I would like to know the 'exact' grade of oil, and also how much oil the engine takes (in quarts or liters, whatever you wish to give a number for).
sorry cant help you there either (I feel obsolete)
 

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Shinigami - 4/4/2005 9:40 AM

I know someone had a thread about this not so long ago, but I can't seem to find it. So I have a few questions.

1) Can one check the quality of the oil themselves, i.e. by using an oil dip stick? And if so, can it be done by placing the stick through the opening I've marked in red in the picture below (yes, I know the 55 comes with an electronic OIL check activated by the intrument cluster, but what I wanna see is how clear the oil is).

2) Is it through this same opening that one adds more oil?

3) What oil should one add? I think it was Mobil 1, but I would like to know the 'exact' grade of oil, and also how much oil the engine takes (in quarts or liters, whatever you wish to give a number for).

Cheers [:)]
1) A dipstick is available from Mercedes and may be worth the price if you change the oil yourself.
2) No, there is a dipstick tube with a red cap in which most dealers extract the oil.
3) My AMG took 8 quarts of Mobil One grade 0-W40
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Any idea on the price of the dip stick offered by MB?

I think I know what you mean by the red cap. It's the one behind and to the left of the engine (when facing at it from the front).

Changing oil is part of the dealer service and is free over here, unless I want to have extra oil changes. I should get hold of an oil extractor (suction machine, or whatever it is called), but if I find out that the oil is almost perfectly clean (by checking it with a dip stick), then I don't really see the point of changing the oil at the moment when I would be gettign the dealer to change the oil anyway free of charge when I get to 10k miles...

I do need to add roughly a liter/quart of oil regardless...
 

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'14 CLS63 AMG S, '10 GLK350, '03 SL5000
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Don't Pay MB -- Make a Dipstick

I could not find my previous post either, but here it is again. I tried to answer your questions at the end below:

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How to: Make an Oil Dipstick for your 55.

Subtitle: When saying, “OK� is just not enough.

Why MB did not include an oil dipstick with the AMG engine is a mystery to me. As I described in a previous post, I want to know where the oil level really is -- especially when driving on a track where high-g forces may slosh the oil away from the oil pump pickup point.

I ran some tests adding and removing oil to see how sensitive and accurate the stock Oil Level Sensor System is and found that the oil level can vary by as much a 2 quarts (1 quart high to 1 quart low) and the System will display “Engine Oil Level OK.� There is no indication for 0.5 quart high or low. Sorry, but that’s not good enough for me.

All you need for a dipstick is about 30 inches of 14 gauge wire or the equivalent. I tried several different items, including a thin brass rod, but found the best solution to be a thin freebie coat hangar from the local dry cleaner.



Sand off any paint on the hanger and make a small loop in one end for your finger. Then trim off the other end so that it is 23.5 inches from the bottom of the loop to the end of the wire. I flattened the end somewhat with a hammer and then roughened the surface a bit by putting a file on the wire and tapping the hammer against the file. This created small pock marks on the end to capture oil and make it easier to see the oil level.

Lengths may vary from engine to engine, but for my engine, I determined that a notch 2 inches from the bottom of the wire (21.5 in. from the loop bottom) represents a level about a pint below the maximum level. Another notch 1 inch from the bottom of the wire represents the point of about where the sensor will start to display the message to add 1 quart.

I had the MB garage in Las Vegas do an oil and filter change at 2500 miles after the on-track time that I’ve described. They did fill the pan to the upper notch.

BTW -- they claim that the fleece oil filter designated for the AMG engine is not yet available and that the filter originally installed at the factory was a paper filter. Yet my invoice shows the number for the fleece filter, but I know they had none of these because I tried to buy one. The parts dept. confirmed the fleece filter is not available, at least this garage could not get one yet. They claim that the paper filter provides an acceptable flow rate, does not filter as well as the “soon-to-be-available� fleece filter but is OK to use. And I am really surprised how small the MB filter is -- roughly 1/3rd the size of a typical BMW filter. Hmm -- all the more reason to do an early oil change.

Fleece Filter Number: 000 180 26 09
Paper Filter Number: 000 180 28 09 (AMG A 113 184 02 25)

Please let me know if anyone is able to find the real fleece filter.

============================


1) Can one check the quality of the oil themselves, i.e. by using an oil dip stick? And if so, can it be done by placing the stick through the opening I've marked in red in the picture below
A: No, this is not the opening. The dipstik tube is located at the right rear of the engine. On mine it is plugged with a short red plastic insert that just pulls out.

2) Is it through this same opening that one adds more oil?
A:Oil is added through the filler cap that you have pictured on top the front of the engine.

3) What oil should one add? I think it was Mobil 1,
A: Yes, Mobil 1 0-40, European Blend. Quatity with oil filter change is 8.5 US qt, 8.0 Liter (page 422 of my Operator's Manual.)



Hope this helps.
 

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Good advice.

Thanks for the heads up on the fleece.

I have 6 of the paper ones in my basement. T I change every 5,000 so the paper should not hopefully be a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Wow, nice.

But how does one change the oil filter, and where is it located? I've yet to actually open the oil valve on the front or behind.
 

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Shinigami - 4/4/2005 3:14 PM
But how does one change the oil filter, and where is it located? I've yet to actually open the oil valve on the front or behind.
The filter is in the tin-can-sized housing just in front of the oil filler cap that you have circled in your photo above. The removeable top has a 12mm socket in it.

To remove the filter housing top you'll need a 12mm Allen wrench. But better yet, buy a 12mm Allen wrench, cut off about an inch from the long side of the wrench with a hacksaw (this will take a while) or a cutting wheel on an air tool.

Then insert this piece into the socket on top of the housing. Then you can use a ratchet wrench with a 12mm socket to remove the top and then use a torque wrench to tighten it after you've lifted out the old filter and inserted a new one. Proper torque (as labeled on the housing top) is 25Nm.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Wrenches I have as well as cutting tools (dremels and the like).

So I should change this filter once every 5k miles or so to be on the safe side? And the fleece filters are even better then?

Guess I'll have to do some shopping. Better safe then sorry. At the rate I'm (ab)using my car, I ought to make sure she gets fresh oil [;)]
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Got the oil, will add it in a bit.

The European manual actually states something like 9.2 liters for the oil change...

Does it actually matter if you put in oil when the engine is hot? Or must one let it cool down for an hour first? Oh, and I took a quick look at the oil a few hours ago. It was brownish, still see-through, but not quite as clean as the new bottle I bought.

Oh, and the shop had several different versions of Mobil 1 0-W40 on sale. Some were a normal version, others were labelled "Turbo Diesel", etc... Is there any actual difference between all of these different types? I mean, they're all labelled the same, so I don't see what would really change between the labelling then?
 

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As a rider of old British motorbikes,(1937 onwards) I'll put my 10 peneth in(maybe a bit or a dime)... In the UK we can buy oil from about £4 sterling (about $8 US) for a gallon. This is oil - i.e.basic slippy stuff that goes between bearings, adjacent surfaces etc., If you pay anymore for oil,(you can pay up to £25 plus per gallon(about $50 US.) you are paying for additives to that oil, which include detergents (which clean any combustion residues from non-moving surfaces), anti-oxidants (which make the oil last longer)etc. etc. You end up with all these bits of crap circulating through your lube system, which your oil filter then takes out. When the filter is full, a blow-off valve allows the oil to bypass the filter, so you are then likely to start getting engine/component wear. On my old Brit bikes, me(and most other people who ride them) use the cheapest possible oil we can get, because we don't have oil filters so we prefer the crap to stick to places where it will do no harm. If you're using the most expensive oil you can get, then you MUST change your filter regularly - more often than suggested service intervals.
 

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Hey Shini get the black cap Mobil 1 it is called european formula and its 0-40.
Maybe oil is just oil and maintaining clean oil is the key to long engine life.
However, the synthetic oils are supposed to be an enhanced lubricant offering less friction that is also less suseptible to break down in both high and low temperature environments. Is synthetic oil worth $5US per quart versus regular oil at $1.50 per quart, maybe not, but for my money when I have a $30,000 engine and the manufacturer says use Mobil 1 synthetic I use synthetic.
I have a question about the filter, does the replacement filter have the long plastic end with the two rubber washers on the bottom and the fence looking black plastic jagged top that ties into the cap, or does the plastic top and bottom pull off the filter cartridge and get reused on the new filter cartridge?
 
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