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P0410 is either DTC 0810 or 0814 = Malfunction of secondary air injection at right bank (0810 or left bank (0814). That's one of the pitfalls of a generic OBDII reader - it's not specific enough to isolate the error. In this case, if SDS showed an error on only one bank, I would suspect a problem with the hose, not the pump, but both together would be the pump. And I'm not sure about that circuit code (was that from Pep Boys? scanner?), but the secondary air injection pump is definitely on relay O.
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
P0410 is either DTC 0810 or 0814 = Malfunction of secondary air injection at right bank (0810 or left bank (0814). That's one of the pitfalls of a generic OBDII reader - it's not specific enough to isolate the error. In this case, if SDS showed an error on only one bank, I would suspect a problem with the hose, not the pump, but both together would be the pump. And I'm not sure about that circuit code (was that from Pep Boys? scanner?), but the secondary air injection pump is definitely on relay O.
That code came off the Pep Boys scanner, which is the same scanner I have. However, the scanner doesn't describe the code- he had to look it up, so whatever database he looked it up in told him it was the R relay. I haven't seen the P0410 come back yet, nor the P0128. No SDS for me, I can't even afford gas for my registered vehicle.

My goal now is to get all the monitors to complete without throwing a code... I need to sell this car ASAP. It's not very responsive to drive cycle stuff.
 

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Hopefully that does it. Tough to drive it around because it's non-op and I can't register it as operational until it passes smog, so I have to be selective about when I drive it. We'll see once all the monitors report in.
You didn't necessarily need to clean the purge valve, but more inspect the vacuum lines and connections it uses. Vacuum leaks here can cause P0410 codes to be stored.

Call the DMV, too. They have a permit you can get for just what you are doing and it's not very expensive. Only good for 14 days or something like that, but that should be enough time for you to get past these hurdles and get it registered.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Ok. Took it on a long, varied drive this morning. Down to two monitors incomplete: Catalyst and Secondary Air.

I went to do the cat procedure described here, and during the 6 minutes of idle speed, the dashboard started flashing BAS, ABS, ESP- Visit Workshop. The lock-to-lock wheel trick didn't stop the ESP, so I turned the car off, restarted (got rid of the BAS/ABS/ESP stuff), and took a reading:

P0720 (My manual says this is the "Output Speed Sensor Circuit Malfunction"). The same incompletes remain.

Ideas, gents?
 

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You are really having a string of bad luck; little wonder you want to sell the car.

Was that a stored code or did it illuminate the CEL?

I'd disconnect the harness from the pilot bushing/spacer/adapter connection at the transmission and see if it's all full of fluid. If so, replace the pilot bushing (get the part at the dealer, it's under $20 and the aftermarket ones suck) and be sure you also check the TCM to see if fluid has reached it. If so, pop the cover off of it and spray it down with electrical contact spray, do the same to the socket, and let it all dry, then reassemble. (You could change the pilot bushing while the TCM and socket are drying.) Then have the transmission codes cleared by a shop with the proper equipment to clear transmission codes; might as well have them check the fluid level while they're there.

Have a read through this FAQ about the transmission, too: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1463460-mercedes-benz-722-6-transmission-faq.html

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
You are really having a string of bad luck; little wonder you want to sell the car.

Was that a stored code or did it illuminate the CEL?

I'd disconnect the harness from the pilot bushing/spacer/adapter connection at the transmission and see if it's all full of fluid. If so, replace the pilot bushing (get the part at the dealer, it's under $20 and the aftermarket ones suck) and be sure you also check the TCM to see if fluid has reached it. If so, pop the cover off of it and spray it down with electrical contact spray, do the same to the socket, and let it all dry, then reassemble. (You could change the pilot bushing while the TCM and socket are drying.) Then have the transmission codes cleared by a shop with the proper equipment to clear transmission codes; might as well have them check the fluid level while they're there.

Have a read through this FAQ about the transmission, too: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1463460-mercedes-benz-722-6-transmission-faq.html

Good luck.
No CEL.

I'll check the TCU for fluid. The bushing looks a little advanced for doing it in the street (it seems to be in the torque converter?).

I've been reading up on the P0720, apparently alot of times it's the conductor plate. I did a conductor plate on a w202 last year... brutal job doing it in the street in front of an apartment complex.

Do you think a P0720 could interfere with the Catalyst monitor coming to ready status?

Regarding the bad luck, omg. Bought it at auction so I can't call it a lemon and get my money back. I've already sunk around $2k into it. Total money pit.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
ATF on one of the plugs going into the TCU. Cleaned the male and female components carefully, but I'm wondering if I should open the TCU to verify that the board is clean? It didn't look like any fluid got to the pins, but I can't be sure. The TCU looks like it should just slide out of its housing, but I don't see any clips/fasteners.

More importantly, does any of this have any bearing on me getting my Cat monitor to completion? As soon as it passes smog, this POS is going on Craigslist. I want my life back.
 

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ECU code P0720 just means "transmission fault". You need SDS (or Carsoft or another tool) that can read DTCs from the TCU.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
ECU code P0720 just means "transmission fault". You need SDS (or Carsoft or another tool) that can read DTCs from the TCU.
Best guess: do you think the P0720 could cause any issues with me getting the Cat to ready, and smogging the vehicle?
 

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Not unless you are in limp mode (i.e. stuck in 2nd gear).
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Update:
Passed Smog!
The method I used to trip the Cat monitor was:

1. Start engine, let it come to temp.
2. Drive 43-56 mph for 3+ min., idle in D for 2 min.
3. Drive 43-56 mph for 3+ min., idle in D for 2 min. Then shut engine off.
4. Start engine.
5. Drive 43-56 mph for 3+ min., idle in D for 2 min.
6. Drive 43-56 mph for 3+ min., idle in D for 2 min. Then shut engine off.

I did it once and it went. Now to sell it. Thanks for your help, everyone!
 

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ECU code P0720 just means "transmission fault". You need SDS (or Carsoft or another tool) that can read DTCs from the TCU.
reading the previous posts I ordered the TCU plug and the icarsoft i980 code reader just in case that's the issue.

what happened today was my son was driving home and he mentioned the car was about to turn off, it was hard to brake to slow down but he made it home driving slow (limp mode?). I checked and there's a check engine light and got the P0720 code using the innova 3130 reader. Can this code reader reset the P0720 code?

Two days prior I had changed all the brake pads, front and rear. Is it possible that working on the brakes could have somehow caused a problem with the output speed sensor? where is this sensor located?

Thanks for your help
 

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This is a transmission fault, but there is a code stored in the ECU that basically says "check the TCU". Use the iCarsoft to scan the TCU and you'll get the code. Also, check for oil intrusion in the TCU.
 
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