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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone

Ever since I bought the car a year ago, I have had an issue with an intermittent vibration. Sometimes it's when the engine is cold (I can feel it through the seat, and the door shakes if it's open - this is even in Park). Sometimes it's when the engine is warm at a stop light. Shifting from D to N seems to reduce it a bit. Sometimes it doesn't happen at all for days at a time. It doesn't correlate to engine or ambient temperature.

Initially I was going to replace the engine and trans mounts but the mechanic says they look fine and are fairly new. Also, with it being intermittent, I didn't think it could be the mounts. If they were bad I would expect it to be more constant.

On Friday I am replacing the spark plugs, spark plug wires, air filter and I am also getting the mass air flow sensor and throttle body cleaned.

I was wondering if anyone can think of any other maintenance activities to do while I am at it? I have a new CPS that I keep in the trunk just in case but I wasn't sure if I should fit this until I need to. I have SDS and there are no errors or codes. I am hoping that it's an issue with the plugs or wires that isn't serious enough to generate a code, but is serious enough for me to feel it.

Thanks
Ollie

(2004 S500 4Matic, 190,000Km, Toronto, Canada)
 

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Get about four feet of 1/4" - 3/8" rubber or plastic hose. Stick one end in your best ear, then use the other end as a probe to listen for the hiss of a vacuum leak. Go all over the top of the engine, and around the engine compartment. Be very careful to avoid moving parts and hot parts! You can tape the probe end of the hose to a wooden dowel or similar tool to make it a little easier to manipulate the probe into tight spots.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The mechanic replaced the spark plugs, and also did the smoke test for vacuum leaks (he could not find any). He also checked 'fuel trim' which was normal.
On the drive home it was fine, but it's intermittent so I am not saying it's fixed yet.

I will reply again once I have used it for a few weeks.

Oh, and the valve covers are leaking a bit. We have cleaned it up and I will monitor to see how bad the leak is. So next job will be valve cover seals.

Funny that on the way to the mechanic my seat base would move back, but not forwards. On the way back from the mechanic it was fine. I put it down to lack of use. I will check the door control module with SDS later.

Thanks again
Oliver
 

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If you've not had the fuel system flushed, try a serving of BG's 44K fuel cleaner. When I bought my '06 S500 year ago, it would occasionally miss during cold starts and when idling. After two tank refills using BG's 44K mine began running a lot smoother.
I went several tank refills without using it and it began running a little rough again. Now I use it every third or fourth fill up to keep it running smooth.
I've been a fan of their products since 1988!
https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/gasoline-fuel-system/bg-44k-fuel-system-cleaner/#bg-product-3
 

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If you've not had the fuel system flushed, try a serving of BG's 44K fuel cleaner. When I bought my '06 S500 year ago, it would occasionally miss during cold starts and when idling. After two tank refills using BG's 44K mine began running a lot smoother.
I went several tank refills without using it and it began running a little rough again. Now I use it every third or fourth fill up to keep it running smooth.
I've been a fan of their products since 1988!
https://www.bgprod.com/catalog/gasoline-fuel-system/bg-44k-fuel-system-cleaner/#bg-product-3
^^ Agreed :thumbsup: Great products and I use them often as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi everyone
I actually bought a can of BG 44K last year but left it on the shelf for some reason - I think I read it was a bit harsh. I ran some techron through the fuel tank and I only every use the Shell Nitro+ fuel.
I will try BG44K before the next big drive. Am I right in thinking it's best to do an oil change after use?
Thanks
Ollie
 

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Hi everyone
I actually bought a can of BG 44K last year but left it on the shelf for some reason - I think I read it was a bit harsh. I ran some techron through the fuel tank and I only every use the Shell Nitro+ fuel.
I will try BG44K before the next big drive. Am I right in thinking it's best to do an oil change after use?
Thanks
Ollie
Yes they do recommend changing the oil after running the BG 44K. I personally sometimes do if I am close to an oil change but if I am not close for an oil change, I don't bother changing it.
 

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The best way to use a fuel system cleaner is during normal short-trip driving, not on a long road trip. You get much more cleaning effect by repeated heating/soaking cycles than from just running it through on a long trip.
^^ Great point!
 

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The best fuel system cleaners contain PEA (Poly-ethyl-amine?? Can't remember...). Chevron's Techron and AMSOIL's PI both have PEA cleaners and work very well.

That said, at some point, injector performance degrades to the point of needing a professional, off the car cleaning. None of the on the car solutions offered by dealerships work as well as a true professional cleaning.

In that case, I recommend this guy:
Hurst Injector Service
125 East Street, Fitchburg, MA 01420 - Tel. (978) 516-0066

He cleaned and flow-balanced the injectors on my wife's Volvo XC. Big difference. The cars idles smoother, and has more power. He can handle any injector.

Cheers,
Astro
 

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Hi,

I once had a Mitsubishi GTO V6 TT Car, I bought it well cheap with a misfire, checked the usual, Compression, Spark etc but no dice.
Apart from "Misfire Cylinder x" no other Codes !!

I removed the Injector from the Fuel Rail and Head, (and now it gets a bit sketchy as my memory of last week is bad let alone 25 years ago) :big laugh: , but .............

I recall I found a tiny little strainer in the Fuel Inlet of the Injector Body, and this was full of crud .............

So I cleaned out said strainer, and then did the other 5, which weren't as bad, but had some particles in them, after this the Car ran sweet as a nut for many years and then I sold it :wink

I would expect all Petrol Injectors have similar, and well worth a look before paying someone else, as you have gotta remove 'em anyways ;)

HTH,
 

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Hi,

I once had a Mitsubishi GTO V6 TT Car, I bought it well cheap with a misfire, checked the usual, Compression, Spark etc but no dice.
Apart from "Misfire Cylinder x" no other Codes !!

I removed the Injector from the Fuel Rail and Head, (and now it gets a bit sketchy as my memory of last week is bad let alone 25 years ago) :big laugh: , but .............

I recall I found a tiny little strainer in the Fuel Inlet of the Injector Body, and this was full of crud .............

So I cleaned out said strainer, and then did the other 5, which weren't as bad, but had some particles in them, after this the Car ran sweet as a nut for many years and then I sold it :wink

I would expect all Petrol Injectors have similar, and well worth a look before paying someone else, as you have gotta remove 'em anyways ;)

HTH,


Yes it's fairly easy once the injectors are out. Our road-side mechs do it all the time, couple of wires, some connectors, a battery, can of carb cleaner, an assistant, plug, spray, helper taps battery in sync in pulses.

There's is a tool on amazon to also do it with one hand. Will post the link.

Also did my ml about over 6 months now and it still runs very very well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Plugged injector... Low power, misfires, false codes. Had this on my ml and it was terrible. A fraction of this will also give you some issues cus this one was abnormal lol



My very own local injector cleaner...

I don't think it's worth it?? But here's something more pro and one person operable. But it's expensive...




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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My very own local injector cleaner.../QUOTE]

Now THAT'S what I call a plugged injector! Wow!
Your home made injector cleaner tool is the better choice for most Do-It-Yourself'ers out there.

A trick I learned from one of BG's vendors back in 1988 when I was first introduced to their products, is to put in TWO cans of 44K during gas\petrol tank fill up, drive the vehicle (that same day) until you're down to 1/2 a tank, and then fill it back up. Then drive the vehicle as you normally would until you're once again at half a tank, then fill it back up again.
Your second fill up of gas will bring the concentration of 44K down to the equivalent of one can per tank. The third fill up will cut the concentration down to the same as 1/2 can per tank. The end result will be a far more effective cleaning on the dirty components while extending the length of time the cleaner is given dissolve the deeper encrusted grime. This can, however, be rather harsh on certain parts of the fuel system, especially the advanced measuring electronics that may be part of the fuel's pathways on certain vehicles.
Alternately, you can put in ONE can of 44K when at 1/2 tank of fuel, drive it until you're down to 1/4 tank, then fill it back up to 1/2 tank. This will minimize the time the electronics are exposed, while still getting the higher concentration across the injectors.
I've found the first method is convenient when going on a road trip, the latter better suited for yearly maintenance.
But nothing beats a full disassembly and manual cleansing of the entire upper engine intake and manifold.
 

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@noetico, that is a great idea. Nothing like a bit of ingenuity.
 

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It's an interesting tool, and I can see its merit, but it is far from the tool, or results, of the professionals.

For $17 an injector, Paul at Hurst Injectors cleaned the injectors in an ultrasonic tank, which removes all the deposits. Some deposits don't respond to solvents alone. He had to clean mine twice to get the results he wanted. He then flow tested them on his Bosch injector machine. So, for a less than the cost of the tool, the injectors were completely cleaned, and flow tested. All the injectors flowed within 0.5% of each other. As I said, a big improvement in smoothness and power.

Now, if the injectors on your car are truly buggered, well, then the tool above will make a difference and improve the situation. But improving the situation is not the same as achieving the best result.

That tool might get them completely clean, and might not. Further, there will be no measurement of cleaning effectiveness and no guarantee that the injectors will flow the same when complete.

This is a case where a professional really does make a difference.
 

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My very own local injector cleaner.../QUOTE]

Now THAT'S what I call a plugged injector! Wow!
Your home made injector cleaner tool is the better choice for most Do-It-Yourself'ers out there.

A trick I learned from one of BG's vendors back in 1988 when I was first introduced to their products, is to put in TWO cans of 44K during gas\petrol tank fill up, drive the vehicle (that same day) until you're down to 1/2 a tank, and then fill it back up. Then drive the vehicle as you normally would until you're once again at half a tank, then fill it back up again.
Your second fill up of gas will bring the concentration of 44K down to the equivalent of one can per tank. The third fill up will cut the concentration down to the same as 1/2 can per tank. The end result will be a far more effective cleaning on the dirty components while extending the length of time the cleaner is given dissolve the deeper encrusted grime. This can, however, be rather harsh on certain parts of the fuel system, especially the advanced measuring electronics that may be part of the fuel's pathways on certain vehicles.
Alternately, you can put in ONE can of 44K when at 1/2 tank of fuel, drive it until you're down to 1/4 tank, then fill it back up to 1/2 tank. This will minimize the time the electronics are exposed, while still getting the higher concentration across the injectors.
I've found the first method is convenient when going on a road trip, the latter better suited for yearly maintenance.
But nothing beats a full disassembly and manual cleansing of the entire upper engine intake and manifold.


I'm so going to find a way to get this 44k. With all your testimony, this product must be fantastic! Thanks!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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