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SL320 1994 (129.063), CLK320 2000
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi, new here but need some help..

Top compartment cover not releasing when opening or closing the soft top. Everything else works OK (or seems to). On opening, the windows drop, roll bar drops but the rear compartment pulls tight instead of opening.
If I manually open the cover and lift the pins clear of the latch, then the top raises verticle. The roof then continues as expected until the compartment cover needs to close again. I remains verticle and if i release and then push the top switch again it is pushed verticle again as though it doesnt think it is open. If I manually push it down to the centre latches and push the top switch again the cover latches correctly and the rear bow drops and latches. The windows then raise again.

The same thing on closing the soft top. Rear bow raises but again the compartment cover pulls tight. Manually unlatch and pull the pins clear and the cover will raise vertically as normal (After pushing the switch again). The soft top will then unlatch at the front and fold away completely. The compartment cover again will not close automatically. When pushed it as far as the pins locating in the latch the cover then locks Ok again.

I have reset all errors and have a single pulse indicating all is well. Tested left and right "closed" and "Locked" switches and the compartment "open" switch and all tested OK.

Hoping someone can help with this one....

This was bought as a project and the soft top has never worked correctly, but everywhere I look it seems someone has been there before. (Top controller only held in with one nut but the other lying next to it etc)


Many thanks for taking the time to read this

Keith
 

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03 SL Kleemann, 97 SL320, 95 E320 cab, Tesla X, Ferrari 360, etc
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949 Posts
no error codes

KeithUK,

thank you for the detailed description - it helps a lot. First off, this is a very unusual scenario.

The sad part is that somebody has already "worked" on the system without fixing it. That makes it harder to narrow down errors that wouldn't show in your current code reading.

Do you know which codes the controller showed before you erased them?

Ideally, can you borrow a controller from another '90-'94 model and see if that will work?

Klaus

Top Hydraulics | Rebuilt Convertible Top Hydraulic Cylinders - Top Hydraulics, Inc
 

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Registered
SL320 1994 (129.063), CLK320 2000
Joined
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
KeithUK,

thank you for the detailed description - it helps a lot. First off, this is a very unusual scenario.

The sad part is that somebody has already "worked" on the system without fixing it. That makes it harder to narrow down errors that wouldn't show in your current code reading.

Do you know which codes the controller showed before you erased them?

Ideally, can you borrow a controller from another '90-'94 model and see if that will work?

Klaus

Top Hydraulics | Rebuilt Convertible Top Hydraulic Cylinders - Top Hydraulics, Inc
Hi Klaus

Firstly thanks for reading and replying.

I do not have a test controller sadly.
I had a list of codes as long as my arm but sadly they have been destroyed. I did clear all of them and 2 & 3 returned. I checked the centre latch switches and all were OK at the SWITCH. Have not tested at the controller. Have reset these and have a single pulse now. I Have tried the top many times since including holding the top switch for upto 80 seconds but no more errors.

Thinking I can rule out the Bow extension switch (not tested though) as the rear cover reacts when bow is verticle (although pulling the cover down instead of releasing). Am I jumping the gun or does it seem to point toward the latch valve ?

Not sure which direction to go or how to test the valve ?

Was hoping to be told to have a few beers and press a magic button somewhere then go in doors and tell the missus "Ive fixed it". Maybe asking too much there.:crybaby2:

One thing I have noticed is that when manually releasing the cover (after the bow is verticle) the latches are pressurised closed not sure that helps at all?

I am hoping the last person to look at it was as clueless as me, and not clever enough to ask the right people for help.

If i do need to check at the controller is there an easy way to get to the plug connections other than a break out box? Or will i need to undo the loom and check the cables by colour ? Have removed the plugs and cleaned the connections. (always worth a try !)

Looking forward to some words of wisdom :bowdown:

Thanks

Keith
 

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SL320 1994 (129.063), CLK320 2000
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Just reading Alldata and it is saying something that may explain my problem but I dont really understand the following :- "to save one solenoid valve the rod side of the cover(closed) is connected to the control line (open) for the cover lock, because the cover can be closed only when the lock is open"

This is under hydraulic circuits part C.

As my centre lock does not release correctly (but pulls tight) and when the cover is "open" will not close under its own steam but needs to be pushed (but needs to have the pressure released first or you can not push it closed) could it be related at all ? perhaps something blocking the valve assembly internally or a solenoid not working correctly ?

I dont seem to be able to find a diagram of this particular part of the hydraulic circuit. Does anyone have a diagram or can explain to me in simple terms how this part of the system works ?

Sorry for the messy descriptions but hope it makes sense to someone with a better knowledge of the system than me.

Thanks to anyone brave enough to a punt at this...

Keith
 

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03 SL Kleemann, 97 SL320, 95 E320 cab, Tesla X, Ferrari 360, etc
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949 Posts
musical chairs with the valves will prove whether or not you have a compromised valve

Just reading Alldata and it is saying something that may explain my problem but I dont really understand the following :- "to save one solenoid valve the rod side of the cover(closed) is connected to the control line (open) for the cover lock, because the cover can be closed only when the lock is open"

This is under hydraulic circuits part C.

As my centre lock does not release correctly (but pulls tight) and when the cover is "open" will not close under its own steam but needs to be pushed (but needs to have the pressure released first or you can not push it closed) could it be related at all ? perhaps something blocking the valve assembly internally or a solenoid not working correctly ?

I dont seem to be able to find a diagram of this particular part of the hydraulic circuit. Does anyone have a diagram or can explain to me in simple terms how this part of the system works ?

Sorry for the messy descriptions but hope it makes sense to someone with a better knowledge of the system than me.

Thanks to anyone brave enough to a punt at this...


Keith
Keith,

I believe that your top has an electrical problem, but the thought of a plugged valve had occurred to me. This would be nice and easy. However, the cover pulling down is a common sign of the controller perceiving that something is illogical.

A simple way to see if any valve is plugged or stuck without having to chase down which valve has which function, is to play "musical chairs" with the valves in the two valve blocks. The valve blocks are behind the carpeted panels above the two storage compartments. If you swap all valves around in the valve blocks at the same time (but leave the wires where they belong), then a plugged or stuck valve would move your problem to another cylinder set... :)

The valves (solenoids) unscrew with an Allen wrench and pull straight out of the valve block.

If this doesn't change anything, and you still don't get any error codes, then I would try a little harder to locate a working controller for comparison.

Klaus

Top Hydraulics | Rebuilt Convertible Top Hydraulic Cylinders - Top Hydraulics, Inc
 

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SL320 1994 (129.063), CLK320 2000
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Klaus

Will have some Musical chair partying later this weekend Thanks for that. My local Indie reckons 2 hours labour and he will have found the problem ! Maybe a thought but I really do like being beaten by these problems.

Trouble is there are too many unknowns with the system at the moment (hence youre reccomendation of a known working control module).

Thanks for your help and I will keep you informed.

Keith
 

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SL320 1994 (129.063), CLK320 2000
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7 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Hi Kaus

Thanks for the help. Removed Y3 solenoid and it is duff. Swapped with another and Woohoo it releases.

Hindsight is a wonderfull thing, just feeling I should have checked there in the beginning.

Many Thanks

Keith.
 
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