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Simple SLK Roof Controller - Install

7472 Views 27 Replies 20 Participants Last post by  pablosal
I had ordered the simple SLK Roof Installer from Dirk about a month ago and finally got around to installing it.

Simple lille kit that comes with the contoller, wire taps (red), zip ties, instructions, etc (everything you would expect).

Pry off the surrond encapsulating the shift knob, go against my better judgement and use the wire taps. What do you know, controller does not work. Go back and install the "right way" without the crappy wire taps and everthing works perfectly.

I don't fault Dirk for using the wire taps, many people due (including DickB on his stuff) I just have never had any luck with them. Everytime I use the things I have to go back remove them, and tap the wire directly.

Let me say that the car should have come this way from the factory. It is so nice not to have to hold the roof button to raise and lower it. One touch is all it takes. As a note for anyone interested in the kit it will raise the windows all the way back up unless you intervene.

For those of you wondering why I did not get the Vario Roof commander which offers one touch control, speed limit over ride, remote control, etc. To me it was just not worth the price the unit costs. I generally use the roof lowering as part of my warm up time for the car in the morning. The Vario is a great product and it would be nice to have but for me at ~33x the price it just did not pay off in the cost/benefit analysis.

I have DickBs MP3 adapter and it works great.

Personally I would not hesitate to purchase from either of these gentleman. Although in DickBs favor he has offered a lot of great advice on the board and has been a huge help to people.

In summary:

The Simple SLK Roof Commander is a breeze to install, is the way the car should have come from the factory, and the best part is the price ~$35 shipped.
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Can you post the contact info for this product again?

The guy is in Germany correct?
Does this unit allow for the roof to be lowered remotely?

thanks
koaea said:
Does this unit allow for the roof to be lowered remotely?

thanks
No,it allows you to push botton and let go.
Roof will go up/down.
Shoot an email to Dirk for additional information on the product or to purchase:

[email protected]

Very fast shipping & very helpful guy.

If you want the option to control it with the remote get DickB's Vario Commander. Look at the posts on the board and you will see nothing but fantastic reviews.
02MDSLK said:
Can you post the contact info for this product again?

The guy is in Germany correct?
02MDSLK,
Order 2 and I'll pay you back next time I see you at work. :thumbsup:
possible wiring error

430 said:
Go back and install the "right way" without the crappy wire taps and everthing works perfectly.
Please describe your method of splicing. Did you cut, solder and heat-shrink?

430 said:
As a note for anyone interested in the kit it will raise the windows all the way back up unless you intervene.
Although I haven't yet installed mine yet, I'm pretty sure this is NOT supposed to happen. The relays are supposed to remain latched until the indicator lamp goes out and then release. If your lamp goes out and the relays remain engaged, you have a wiring problem. Or, if upon completion of the roof travel the indicator remains lit while the windows raise, this is also a wiring error.

Is anyone else's SimpleSLK doing this?
My method of splicing is to remove the insulation from a section of wiring (without cutting the wire) then soldering the connections.

I double check the instructions but I don't think there is much way to get the wiring wrong and still have the SimpleSLK controller still work. That does not preclude an issue with the unit itself. I will look into it.
430 said:
My method of splicing is to remove the insulation from a section of wiring (without cutting the wire) then soldering the connections.
Although I don't hesitate to solder connections cars either, some argue that this type of connection is not as reliable as crimping. The solder wicks up the wires and makes them stiff. Vibration can cause problems at the transition from stiff to flexible.

Others have had issues in other applications with the 3M connectors as used in the BVRC, but I have never had a problem, and I don't recall any customer issues either. A key is to use the correct size connector for the wire gauge and to crimp firmly with a pliers BEFORE closing the insulating flap. I detailed this procedure in the BVRC instructions.
My windows don't raise when the top closes. The light goes out and the windows say in the lowered position.
I used the crimp connectors that came with the kit and they can be a pain as I had a wire that made an slight S turn around the metal splice. A little troubleshooting with a meter found it. It's a great deal, used it recently since it's been in the 70's here (it's in the shop today for other issues). You can't beat the price. I'm sure Dick's kit is better but I wouldn't have spent that.
DickB said:
Others have had issues in other applications with the 3M connectors as used in the BVRC, but I have never had a problem, and I don't recall any customer issues either. A key is to use the correct size connector for the wire gauge and to crimp firmly with a pliers BEFORE closing the insulating flap. I detailed this procedure in the BVRC instructions.
I have always firmly crimped before closing the insulating flap. The issue with me is that I always seem to have one or two that just do not make a good connection.

Not sure what the deal is with my installation completing the entire cycle including rolling up the windows. I have an email into Dirk and will re-check my installation this weekend. Although I believe if there is an issue it is with the unit itself and not the install.
With the weather now getting warmer, I am finally going to install this thing. Only problem is that I don't have any instructions with it. I have a sealed package with the black unit, wire connector, crimps, plastic ties, and an adhesive base..but no instructions. Can any one scan and send me theirs or link me online to a set?
Thanks! :bowdown: SimpleRoofSLK
Installation guide

SpitzeStrom_Terp said:
With the weather now getting warmer, I am finally going to install this thing. Only problem is that I don't have any instructions with it. I have a sealed package with the black unit, wire connector, crimps, plastic ties, and an adhesive base..but no instructions. Can any one scan and send me theirs or link me online to a set?
Thanks! :bowdown: SimpleRoofSLK

Hello,

From Dirk's homepage :))

simpleroof.de - Installation

Good luck

Best regards
Rob
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koaea said:
Does this unit allow for the roof to be lowered remotely?

thanks
The "SimpleRoof" system does not, however looking at the "EasyRoof" setup on the same web site appears to add that function. This thing looks amazing - I'm getting one whenever he gets it done.
I got my SimpleRoof module from Dirk today. Installed with no problems, the directions are very straight forward. There is not a lot of room to work on the wire bundle but it can be done without too much hassle. SimpleRoof works great, push and hold the roof button for a second or so and the top operation starts, then you can let go of the switch and it continues to the point where the top is up or down and the main windows are down. Double tap and hold the switch if you want the main windows up. I think I will be very happy with this mod.
Had it for a few months now, most amazing mod for 30 bucks.
Got mine 2 weeks ago, and it's easy to install and works great. Mine didn't reset when stopping the roof half way, so had to restart ignition to get the roof going again. Dirk was very helpful letting me send the module in return for a new one. Now I am just waiting for that new one. Great module for the price!
I just never put my roof up...............unless it rains.
Soldering is always the best way to make connections, especially in harsh environments. Just make sure the solder "flows" thoroughly through the joint, and the joint involves enough wire to be structurally sound.

If crimping, NEVER tin the wires (put solder on them to keep the strands together) before putting the wires into the crimp body. The joint will go resistive (~20ohms) in about 2 years, and be a real pain in the ass.
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