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1986 300 SL Euro spec - Signal Red/Black Eng/Trans: Inline 6 (M103.982) / 722.322 Auto
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1,976 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So yesterday I was getting ready to give the old SL a bath when I noticed on of the side guards loose. Upon a bit of inspection, the piece came off rather easily as there were metal screws that have rusted away and it appears as there was some type of glue used to attach the ends of the piece in place.

Luckily it happened in my garage and thus I didn't loose the part.

IMG_5434.jpg

IMG_5436.jpg

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Now, I am considering:
1. Having the door guards (mouldings) either removed completely which would seal up the holes on the doors and side pannels avoiding water to enter and eventually cause rust.... or

2. Sealing the holes and having the mouldings attached using adheisive tape (3M). Thing is Im not sure which tape would be the best option since there are so many different types.

Comments, suggestions welcomed.
 

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1981 380SL
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256 Posts
Those guards are effective for preventing dings.

I would get new connectors, readily available at the usual suppliers or from MB. Are you able to purchase off the internet in Nicaragua and not deal with customs?
 

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1986 300 SL Euro spec - Signal Red/Black Eng/Trans: Inline 6 (M103.982) / 722.322 Auto
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1,976 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I agree they are usefull to prevent dings, but the fasteners at the ends are metal and rusted out and the holes in the pannels seem to be rust prone areas. They are not water tight by any means and do collect dirt and grime underneath.

I dont understand why they were not just "glued" on in the first place.
 

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1986 300 SL Euro spec - Signal Red/Black Eng/Trans: Inline 6 (M103.982) / 722.322 Auto
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1,976 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
After all, it was only 1985...
:p hehehhe....... forgot just how old this car is !!

Im headed to the body shop on Tuesday to see what options they can offer.
 

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1993 600SL, 1973 450 SL,1982 380SL,1998 SLK 230, 1968 Firebird, 2001 Dodge Ram 4x4,2005 Ford Escape
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5,247 Posts
IMHO the 107's are too slab sided without the moulding to break up that side plane. And one small tap by either a careless driver or you opening the door against anything and your door has a nasty ding you can see from space ! The tape isn't a bad idea, but I think just replacing the bolts is probably the best solution. At least you can easily remove for maintenance etc.
 

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1978 450SL--117K
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1,374 Posts
I agree with TD. Best way to go is with the fasteners. They just slide into the slots. You can always seal the holes in the body metal with a non-corrosive caulk.
 

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1993 600SL, 1973 450 SL,1982 380SL,1998 SLK 230, 1968 Firebird, 2001 Dodge Ram 4x4,2005 Ford Escape
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5,247 Posts
Caulking those holes is a great idea. I'll do that when mine goes back together. Good plan :thumbsup:
 

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500SLC #2624. Black on Black.
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5,120 Posts
Don't forget the hose on the back clip to protect your paint...

You are actually probably better to get a whole new moulding (even though they are expensive), as it can be a pain to get the clips into the moulding.
 

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500SLC #2624. Black on Black.
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5,120 Posts
Also, it looks like your paint has been damaged due to the glue on the front (maybe) and from someone not being careful with the clip on the back (or not having the hose on it). The issue with the paint is not directly as a result of the fasteners.
 

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1986 300 SL Euro spec - Signal Red/Black Eng/Trans: Inline 6 (M103.982) / 722.322 Auto
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1,976 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Body shop recommended adheisive tape since the piece is rather small. They will repaint the areas that need it.

Pics upon return.
 
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