Thanks Kim, these are all good, salient points. It’s helpful to know ballpark costs for the items you mention too. I have mostly pics of the outside and the velour wear-points, which I specifically asked for. There are a couple of wood defects of course and one of the seat belt ‘butlers’ doesn’t work. To be expected. At the end of the day I’d like a good looking SEC which drives well and is reliable. Not looking for a mint cars as it’s so hard (and often heart rending) to keep it that way. I enjoy bringing things back to life with my own hands but of course I don’t want a money pit either. After a discussion about old age timing chains and guides he offered to split the cost of the work with me, so I think we are on the right foot with each other atm. The car is in for it’s inspection today so I can share the list of issues with you all later if you’re interested.My first thought is that the dealer is probably asking too much money for that car. Why else would it sit there for a year and a half? And you have to assume that at least a few serious buyers have looked at it and passed for one reason or other. Obviously in most cases, everything has its price, and that car looks very nice, but it still strikes me as likely that whatever the issues are, that no one was willing to pay the dealer's ask. And the dealer is obviously willing to wait, so consider that.
Second, you almost certainly will have to replace the tires despite tread depth because they will probably be too old to be safe. At the very least, you should check the date codes on the tires before setting off at highway speeds.
Third, the car is likely to need suspension work if it hasn't been done already. Sitting around is hard on shock absorbers, and with the mileage noted, the front end is likely getting long in the tooth. OEM parts for a front-end rebuild -- ball joints, tie rod ends, guide rod bushings, control arm bushings, etc. -- will run about $900 here in the USA, and putting it all together is probably a 10-ish hour job. Shocks will likely run you $75-100 per corner, depending on what you choose. Oh, and you'll likely also need new engine mounts, flex discs, possibly drive shaft bearing, and a steering stabilizer/damper, the latter of which is cheap and easy.
Fourth, given the above, and the comments made by other members, I'd be very loathe to drive that car a long distance until I had some confidence in its overall mechanical capability. Sure, the front-end stuff won't be a problem, and yes, you can likely easily get new tires on the car before driving, but I'd be worried about fuel and electrical gremlins popping up at inopportune moments.
Maybe you can post some more pictures?
Cheers and welcome to the forum!
Where I'm still a W126 wanna-be, and about to drive my C280 to Mexico City.
P.S. I did write this post as general advice on some of the tradeoffs between buying fully-sorted and a project car. You might find it helpful.