[denns]

my 1982 300td wagon sags in rear, how can i fix this? thanks, denns

 

[lietuviai]

Do you know if you have a "level control system" in your car?...

Do you know if you have a "level control system" in your car?

 

[twenty3sky]

level control

Its important to know whether you have a "level control system" because "the sag" can go 2 ways.
If you have a level contorolled car there are more questions than if not... to identify this check if you have several lines running towards your strut ...one from the front & one from the back to the pressure reservoir and one from it to your strut. If you have these then changing your shocks may be pointless and I'm sure someone the wiser will explain.
If you don't see these then changing your rear shocks may be the answer.
Before all this make sure your tires are the same height 175/185?
Good luck!

 

[denns]

Re: level control

Its important to know whether you have a "level control system" because "the sag" can go 2 ways.
If you have a level contorolled car there are more questions than if not... to identify this check if you have several lines running towards your strut ...one from the front & one from the back to the pressure reservoir and one from it to your strut. If you have these then changing your shocks may be pointless and I'm sure someone the wiser will explain.
If you don't see these then changing your rear shocks may be the answer.
Before all this make sure your tires are the same height 175/185?
Good luck!

 

[denns]

saging rear

my wagon has a levaling system,can anyone tell me where to start looking to correct this? thanks, denns

 

[denns]

c-v boots

is there a way to instal these without removing the entire driveshaft? thanks, denns

 

[lietuviai]

You can, but according to the manual, Mercedes recommends removing the entire differenti...

You can, but according to the manual, Mercedes recommends removing the entire differential if you are going to replace all of the c-v joints. I can't understand why. You will also probably need some special tools as well if you are going to just take the half shafts out.

 

[Ler]

There's a few things to check...

There's a level sensor, hydraulic pump, etc. (probably all listed in a manual somewhere), but the thing that's mots likely to go are the "air cells" themselves, one for each of the rear wheels. They're shaped like pressure vessels, and from what I understand, there's a diaphram inside that varies the air/hydraulic fluid volumes to adjust the ride height. When this diaphram breaks with age and use, the rear end sags and feels really bouncy, the feeling that makes you think you need new shocks.

These cost about a hundred bucks a piece I think. You can convert the self-leveling system to a standard spring/shock setup more cheaply, but this supposedly deteriorates the ride quality/handling. Plus, you don't get that cool self-leveling effect.

Request a print catalog from Performance Products:
http://www.performanceproducts.com/catalogRequest.aspx
Their catalog has exploded views of most parts on the 123 cars- I find them pretty useful just to understand how things work.

 

[dlg1968]

RE: There's a few things to check...

Could you tell me more about converting to spring/shock setup what are the pros and cons and how difficult is it to do?
Thanks, Darren

 

[Ler]

RE: There's a few things to check...

I've never seen a converted self leveling system, but I'd imagine that there's quite a bit to change out. These were taken from the Performance website:
<img src="http://assets.performanceproducts.com/assets/bitmaps/92.gif">
The Shock (4) is $275, and the air cell (3) is $105

<img src="http://assets.performanceproducts.com/assets/bitmaps/91.gif">
To eliminate the self leveling feature, I'd think you would need to replace (3) and (4) in the previous schematic with (1) and (6) in this picture (Spring, $70, and shock, $81)

Pros and con?
Usually the SLS sags because of worn air cells only. For $105 each, you preserve the SLS function (compensating for rear loading) and OEM ride quality/handling. You must also continue to maintain the entire leveling system.

With the conversion, $150 per side, you simplify function and maintenance by cutting out the mechanicals. You also lose the ability to compensate for hauling cargo, and may introduce handling and ride quality issues.

Shocks wear and need to be serviced, just like air cells. My car has shown that the SLS is a pretty robust system- the air cells were replaced ~5-7 years ago and since, the car rides like new, firm but compliant, and no sagging. If I were you, I'd get the system checked out and if everything else is still working, stick with OEM.