[bigleftie]

I am wondering if I should attempt to replace my shocks and struts on my 2003 CLK500.

I was told by Pep Boys that they need replacement. Since this was a special order, I had the option to order the parts myself and have them install them. I decided to order the parts and save the $210.

Here is my parts order (from RockAuto) if anyone is interested:

MONROE	71486	Strut Assembly	$ 124.79	1	$ 124.79
MONROE	63975	Strut Bellow	$ 14.21		2	$ 28.42
MONROE	39047	Shock Absorber	$ 61.89		2	$ 123.78
MONROE	71488	Strut Assembly	$ 124.79	1	$ 124.79

I am going to be doing my brakes and figured I'd look at the shocks/struts and determine if I could do them while I'm in there.

My research resulted in two guides.

1. A document that describes how to change shocks on a W210. (attached)
2. A Popular Mechanics guide to replace shocks.

I am having problems finding information on replacing the struts.

My questions are:

1. Does anyone know of a DIY guide for replacing struts?
2. Do you have any tips I should know before doing this job?
3. Pep Boys will do the installation for about $300. Would you let them (remember, I'll have the wheels off for brakes already)?
4. How much more time will this add to the job if I do it while replacing the brakes?

 

[keyhole]

Hi - I'm surprised that you took advice on servicing your MB from Pep Boys - most here don't consider that they have the required expertise... How did they test it? Do you think that your front suspension needs attention? What is your mileage?

Ref your questions:

1. W210 and W208 are very similar here. Your DIY is not OK for a W209 (plus no torques are given)
2. Only tip I know is to do both struts at the same time.
3. DIY - if you have the tools & a torque wrench.
4. I would do the 2 jobs separately. Then do a test drive after the first. If you do both jobs together and you have a problem, you will not know which one to re-examine.

This is the WIS drawing for your W209 (I assume page 6 is relevant for W209, although reference to it has been omitted)

 

[bigleftie]

Hi - I'm surprised that you took advice on servicing your MB from Pep Boys - most here don't consider that they have the required expertise... How did they test it? Do you think that your front suspension needs attention? What is your mileage?

This is the WIS drawing for your W209 (I assume page 6 is relevant for W209, although reference to it has been omitted)

I have 94,000 miles.

I usually try a few places to see if they all provide me with the same repair recommendations. Seems some of these places see you roll up in a Benz and think that you want to fork out thousands

Most of the time, I will start by going taking my car to a local place that works on MB all the time. They are a reputable place and I've have very good success using them in the past. However, they are typically about 20% higher than places like Pep Boys.

Problem #1
Symptom: Knocking in the front when going over bumps or uneven pavement
Recommendation: My front bushings needed replacement

Problem #2
Symptom: Both rear tires were wearing on the inside and a knocking sound coming from the rear tire area
Recommendation: Rear shocks are no longer good and require replacing

I then proceed to Pep Boys to get a second opinion and see how much they could do the job for. This time, they confirmed the findings of the first place and provided me with a "special order" parts list. I still wasn't excited about the Pep Boys $1,200 estimate, so I began investigating doing the work myself.

Thanks for your tips and the document. It looks as thought doing the struts might be a bit too much for me to take on. I am still hopeful that the rear shocks and brakes are doable.

 

[560sec944]

I have not done a replacement on a W209, but I have done a lot of coil over strut replacements - you need a spring compressor, compress the spring before removing the nut and you need to be very careful - do not have your head or any body part situated above the spring - just in case. It "could take your head off".

 

[keyhole]

Hi 560sec944 - What you said is generally so with most designs of front struts, I believe.

I think that this W209 design is different. My WIS drawing for 'Disassemble/Assemble the front suspension strut' does indeed call for a tensioning device to compress the spring.

But the WIS procedure to Remove/Install the front strut assembly does not require the compressor tool. Note also that the strut is un-bolted with the car raised from the ground and the wheel removed. Altogether, it appears to be a simpler operation.

 

[bigleftie]

But the WIS procedure to Remove/Install the front strut assembly does not require the compressor tool. Note also that the strut is un-bolted with the car raised from the ground and the wheel removed. Altogether, it appears to be a simpler operation.

If you could share this procedure somehow, that'd be great.

Thanks!

 

[keyhole]

I've already posted it!

Open the .pdf in post #2, and you can read it.

 

[560sec944]

Hey keyhole, right you are concerning a strut assembly. The last time I replaced struts on a car, shock inserts were the only thing available at a reasonable price. The prices for a whole strut assembly have come down enough that it is probably the preferred method.

 

[bigleftie]

I have 94,000 miles on the car.

I'm wondering if the strut mounts go bad - better yet, if there's a way I could determine if they are bad or not.

Given I'm going to be in there already, I wanna order the mounts and deal with them at the same time instead of doing the whole job twice.

Thanks!

 

[keyhole]

bigleftie - Do you understand how the W209 front suspension works?

I only ask because there are no separate mounts. The 'shock mount' is a part of the strut assembly and comes with it. It is the bundt shaped dish at the top of the strut.

If you want to know the names of all the parts of your front suspension, go to somewhere like parts.com and call up a part. You can see a drawing of the part with all the adjacent parts, with prices.

 

[bigleftie]

bigleftie - Do you understand how the W209 front suspension works?

I only ask because there are no separate mounts. The 'shock mount' is a part of the strut assembly and comes with it. It is the bundt shaped dish at the top of the strut.

If you want to know the names of all the parts of your front suspension, go to somewhere like parts.com and call up a part. You can see a drawing of the part with all the adjacent parts, with prices.

Honestly, the answer to your question is NO... I don't know. But, I'm learning with the help of you guys.

I do see the bundt shaped dish at the top of the strut. And, I see that there is a rubber piece in the dish.

Here is an image of the 2003-2006 Mercedes Benz CLK500 Shock and Strut Mount - Sachs - Front, Direct OE replacement that I am referring to:

Here is the picture that came up when I was looking for the struts on my 2003 CLK 500 on parts.com

#17 is the strut mount. I am not by my car now, but I am going to look to see which of these parts are under the hood and which are under the car. I can't remember from here. Are you saying that this piece is accessible from under the hood?

Edit: I looked under the hood where the strut comes through. It looks like the strut mount is the last part that must be replaced from underneath while the strut is removed. I guess my question is how to tell if it's worn or damaged and whether or not it needs replacing.


Thanks - had no idea about the pictures on parts.com. Very helpful!

 

[keyhole]

I guess my question is how to tell if it's worn or damaged and whether or not it needs replacing.

I imagine an experience tech would:

a) look at the miles on the clock.
b) test drive the car over some bumpy road section, and listen for clunking noises from the front. And 'feel' for any knocking via the steering wheel.
c) bounce the vehicle at the front corners, checking the response.

Of course, suspension slack is also caused by worn bushings in the upper/lower control arms, and those can be examined from beneath the car by physically shaking the suspension. Unless the strut has collapsed, there is not much gained by a visual inspection of that before it is removed.

 

[bigleftie]

If you were shipped a brand new strut and it was defective, would you have anyway of knowing it was defective before installing it?

I had a brand new strut put in - and they are telling me the strut is defective and seems to have lost it's gas charge.

I wonder if this was something they caused or, at least, would have been detectable at the time the part was inspected after it was removed from the box (before doing the installation).

Thanks!

 

[keyhole]

If you were shipped a brand new strut and it was defective, would you have anyway of knowing it was defective before installing it?

Probably not. The only real way to test such a unit would be to install it, I guess. Unless there were obvious sign of damage/leakage.

They will replace it foc, I hope.

 

[Jfscars48]

Let me state that my mechanical skills are just above novice. Now let me state that I am incredulous that someone would take a MB to Pep Boys for service. This could wind up costing you a whole lot of money. You need to find a GOOD Indy and pay a fair price. You don't want to be conducting training for Pep Boys. My 2 cents.

 

[jtothar]

I had the knocking in the front on my 03 500, My Indy replaced all front bushings and new front a-arms which are integrated with the ball joints for $1000 total. Knock has never returned.

Edit: to sum up, it was not the struts. Not that Pep Boys would have a clue about this car...

 

[keyhole]

jtothar: I think that you took the right path there.

There probably is a piece of kit in a racing car stable that could flex the suspension in such a way that the individual component causing the knock could be identified.

In real life, all the suspension ball joints, bushings and struts on a car with MY 2003 (and very high mileage) could be ready for replacement. To single out one or two is probably a bad move if you intend to keep the car.

 

[NickLouis]

I just need a little better clarification on spring compression part of this install. With the car raised up on jacks and tires off, I would imagine the shock and springs are not under full tension. At this point would you still need to compress the spring, to further relieve tension off the shock? Also vis-versa when re-installing, I'am guessing the spring has to be compressed to get the shock in correctly. What if the new shock and spring are installed un compressed along with all other components, would the weight of the car compress it and then you could properly torque the retaining nut on top?

 

[rudeney]

The front shocks are a "cartridge" style. The entire shock/spring assembly is removed from the car in one piece. To re-use the spring and replace just the shock, a spring compressor is needed. On the rear, the shock can be removed with the spring left in place.

 

[NickLouis]

okay now I understand. When replacing both the shock and spring, the spring would be installed prior to installation on the car.