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2003 S500
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The pawl must move freely on the pivot. Having to drive it onto the pivot probably means that there is a manufacturing error in the aluminum pawl. If it can't move freely. it won't work properly.

Sounds like a manufacturing error followed by an installation error...
 

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The pawl must move freely on the pivot. Having to drive it onto the pivot probably means that there is a manufacturing error in the aluminum pawl. If it can't move freely. it won't work properly.

Sounds like a manufacturing error followed by an installation error...
If it's a manufacturing error I'm fine with that.

But if it's an installation error then I'm perplexed.

Literally I did the following Assuming shifter out and free:
Removed 3 torx holding shifter to shifter housing
Removed shifter housing
Removed 2 rivets securing heat shield
Removed torx securing heat shield to brain
Removed 2 torx securing plastic waffle plate
Removed waffle plate
Removed 2 torx securing Spring detent
Removed Spring detent
Removed e/c clip from broken plastic lever
Removed plastic lever
Install aluminum lever
Align little lever spring
Install e/c clip
Reinstall spring detent
Reinstall waffle plate
Reinstall heatshield
Rivet heatshield
Reinstall shifter housing to shifter
 

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2003 S500
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"The aluminum piece was very very tight and I had to basically drive it down on to the pivot that it rides on in the shifter."

Installation error.
 

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"The aluminum piece was very very tight and I had to basically drive it down on to the pivot that it rides on in the shifter."

Installation error.
So procedurally it is correct and my problem is likely due to the fact that their is too much drag on the aluminum lever?
 

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A customer came to me with the problem that the shifter is in free mode where it will freely shift to any position with no key or brake press required. If I get the aluminum replacement part and install it, will it then allow all the mechanisms to work properly again? Forcing the shifter to stop in park until the brake was pressed?
 

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A customer came to me with the problem that the shifter is in free mode where it will freely shift to any position with no key or brake press required. If I get the aluminum replacement part and install it, will it then allow all the mechanisms to work properly again? Forcing the shifter to stop in park until the brake was pressed?
bump
 

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Outstanding Contributor
2002 S430
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I would love to be able to help you, but all I know about your problem is it may not work. My shifter is the same, its the way it was when I bought the car. From what I have been told by a company that does the repair there must be something else that has been removed to prevent it locking as just removing the lock pawl doesnot result in the shifter moving freely. You would be best to track down a company that does the repair and talk to them about it, if you don't get a reply here. Remember though that there is 3 different versions of the locking pawl.

Dean
 

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Thanks !!! Brilliant

Who the hell comes up with a piece of sh** plastic BS part like that. It was with great satisfaction i threw it away. The shifter is one of the most overconstructed pieces of mecanics i have ever seen.
Thank you so much for the brilliant writeup you saved the day or the month actually.:grin
 

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97-SL600, 01-S600, 00-E3204matic, '06 SL55
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Who the hell comes up with a piece of sh** plastic BS part like that. It was with great satisfaction i threw it away. The shifter is one of the most overconstructed pieces of mecanics i have ever seen.
Thank you so much for the brilliant writeup you saved the day or the month actually.:grin
who, indeed..?!
my considered guess it is the US fed gov just doing what authoritarian governments do so as to justify their existence.. control you.. federal regulations so the really stupid don't fall into the survival of the fittest trap of death before copulation.. :)

what i did with mine when it locked in park, after a tow job to my home and into the garage was take the whole thing apart and cut and file the offending mechanism out of existence..
 

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Forum Administrator , RC Colas® & Moon Pies®
1981 380SL 151K: 2005 S500 116K
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It may have been covered in this thread already but I am wondering what damage, if any, may be caused by bumping down on the shift lever. I was in the pick and pull last week and needed to get a car out of park so that I could remove the center console. I pulled the shift knob off and hit the top moderately sharply with a hammer and it moved easily out of Park and into any gear position that I tried. Once back in Park, it locked again and would not move until I hit it.

What's the damage potential? I'm afraid that if I was somewhere and the lever would not come out of Park, I'd be very tempted to try it just to get the car moving.
 

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You should carry a rubber mallet in your car if you own a w220 or w215

You can bang the shifter to get it out of park and the only part that may be damaged is the plastic piece Inside the shifter (that's already damaged and broken since it's the part preventing you from getting out of park )

Obviously if you have keyless go , do not strike the button on top of the shift knob !


If you use a metal hammer you might Danage the shifter itself
 

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Forum Administrator , RC Colas® & Moon Pies®
1981 380SL 151K: 2005 S500 116K
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39,257 Posts
You should carry a rubber mallet in your car if you own a w220 or w215

You can bang the shifter to get it out of park and the only part that may be damaged is the plastic piece Inside the shifter (that's already damaged and broken since it's the part preventing you from getting out of park )

Obviously if you have keyless go , do not strike the button on top of the shift knob !


If you use a metal hammer you might Danage the shifter itself
Good to know. Since I have replaced my solid shift knob with one from a 210, I wouldn't bang on it since that would likely dislodge the star emblem but would, instead, remove the knob and hit the shifter post directly. Either way, I'm off to Harbor Freight.



1 lb. Fiberglass Handle Rubber Mallet
Pittsburgh® - item#95083
Rated 4.68 out of 5 stars
This rubber mallet hammers without damaging materials
Only: $6.99
 

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2002 S 430
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247 Posts
The mallet is a welcome quote :)
Actually the hammer cannot even damage the black plastic. No direct contact. The hammer may release the blocking by Newton's law, the whole box moves a tiny bit down while the blocking arm moves relatively up and lets the shifter arm free for a split second.
BTW, the shifter box is not just a clicking turning mechanical device, it contains fairly sophisticated electronics, so sledgehammers are not recommended.
Bigger force by angry frustrated users is not more help than just a moderate hit. 
 

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2013 S550
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11,069 Posts
Dig, I'd use the hammer only in an emergency. Much better to open up the shift quadrant and remove the broken plastic link (be aware that doing so without replacing the link means young 'uns - or even us old farts - could shift the car into gear without pushing the brake pedal).

There are links to replacement parts sources; post 15 above for a plastic one, and there are metal ones (which tend to be expensive - also note, there are two different sizes of the linkages (post 100 above). Hmmm - while reviewing this thread, I came across your post at 102 above. It had one of the better--priced metal ones, at $75 (I have seen some advertised for $225) Some of the link sources provide both sizes in a kit.
 

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Outstanding Contributor
2002 S430
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1,934 Posts
To add to all this there is in fact 3 different types. 2 are 11mm hole through the top 1 of which has a notch taken out of it and the third is a 5mm.

See here.

And here for more types.
 

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Forum Administrator , RC Colas® & Moon Pies®
1981 380SL 151K: 2005 S500 116K
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39,257 Posts
Dig, I'd use the hammer only in an emergency. Much better to open up the shift quadrant and remove the broken plastic link (be aware that doing so without replacing the link means young 'uns - or even us old farts - could shift the car into gear without pushing the brake pedal).

There are links to replacement parts sources; post 15 above for a plastic one, and there are metal ones (which tend to be expensive - also note, there are two different sizes of the linkages (post 100 above). Hmmm - while reviewing this thread, I came across your post at 102 above. It had one of the better--priced metal ones, at $75 (I have seen some advertised for $225) Some of the link sources provide both sizes in a kit.
Indeed. I was merely inquiring for emergency purposes. I'm also thinking of getting some treated 4X4 wooden blocks and long zip ties in case of catastrophic airmatic failure on road trips. :wink
 

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2013 S550
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Don't forget the duct tape and baling wire! And similar to the hammer, Brogan maintenance has been known to work in a pinch. :devil

...But don't tell Spacey or Mara that you're doing it. :nono:
 

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Forum Administrator , RC Colas® & Moon Pies®
1981 380SL 151K: 2005 S500 116K
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Last month, I was passed on the Baltimore Beltway by an early 220 that was fully pancaked, doing about 70 mph. The smoke coming from the wheel wells was alarming.

But that's a subject for another thread.
 
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