Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

101 - 120 of 162 Posts

·
Registered
2002 S 430
Joined
·
247 Posts
It may sense to look around on Ebay. Some sellers offer a package of both size, then you do not wait for the correct part with your car taken apart.
 

·
Forum Administrator , RC Colas® & Moon Pies®
1981 380SL 151K: 2005 S500 116K
Joined
·
39,257 Posts
Thank you, Kerno! You saved me about $1,300. Have you ever thought about running a tally of how much money you have saved all of us who have followed your awesome instructions and saved a bundle? Perhaps enough for a pre-loved SL63?:)

Since this is about helping each other out, I wanted to offer a couple of things that I did that may help others.

First, for safety reasons, I did not just remove the junk broken plastic piece - I replaced it with a metal one (aluminum) that I bought on ebay from a company whose ebay user name is "Rebuild Master Tech" out of Pompano Beach, Florida. They do not include the e-clip and small spring you will find on your broken plastic piece, so make sure you save them when you remove the broken piece so that you can use them on your new metal piece.

Second, I did not have to drill out any rivets at all. I simply swung the black waffle patterned plastic cover and wiggled the broken piece out AFTER removing the e-clip and wiggled the metal piece in. It is not difficult at all but it will need patience. It took me about 10 to 15 minutes in total to remove the broken plastic piece and install the metal piece.

Third, I had to park my car for about a week while waiting for the part to arrive. These guys make different sizes of this part. The main difference is the size of the hinges: one is 5mm and the other one is 11mm. Based on the measurements from my broken plastic piece, I ordered the 11mm part for my 2003 S430. Unless you know ahead of time, you will have to take the broken piece out and measure it and order the correct one. The best part is the cost: $75.00 plus $3.00 for standard/ground shipping. I am sure they can get it to you faster if you pay the extra cost.

I have now driven it for a couple of days and more than 100 miles and it works perfectly fine. To those of you who are hoping your plastic piece is NOT broken or breaking, DO NOT be fooled if it appears to be intermittent. Mine started being difficult to get out of park. It would require force during cold weather days and on nice warm days, it was working just fine. This progressively got worse until one day, it just would not get out of park at all. Fortunately, it was in my garage and thanks to Kerno it only cost me $78.00 and a couple of hours in total to fix. Kerno, if you ever come to the Mile High City, let me know and I could at least treat you to a nice cold beer and a juicy steak! It's the least I can do.

Cheers!
I am not affiliated but I am deeply interested so I went on a hunt. Here is the link for posterity.


Mercedes Benz W215 W220 Park Lock Lever Repair Kit

Contact or Questions:

Rebuild Master Tech

920 SW 2nd PL

Pompano Beach FL 33069

Ph: (954) 934-9000
 

·
Registered
S430
Joined
·
25 Posts
I'm not that handy with tools (well just pc stuff not other mechanics) but with this guide i was able to change it with ease. took me 2 days (about 2hr each) (cause i'm lazy a bit and also didn't want to make any mistakes).

i was able to remove shifter without unhooking the cable from transmission side, took bit of work but got it done. the surprising part for me was when i went to plug everything back in, the shifter cable (that goes under hood to transmission) was pretty easy to snap back on. other than that pretty much everything is same, i only had confusion of which rivets to remove (on the 3rd post on main page/topic) so i didn't took any out and after few steps i figured it out. other than that it was pretty easy to do the job. if the middle console/armrest area was easier to remove, it'll be easier than changing oil on these things.

thanks
CB
 

·
Registered
SL500
Joined
·
3 Posts
I'm fixing this same issue on an 2003 SL500, and I'm stuck at the part where I need to disconnect the shift rod from the transmission.. I've taken a picture of where the rod connects to the transmission, and the single tab lock that is keeping it in place, but I just have no clue how to unhook it.. can anyone help?

I labeled some parts of the clip if it helps anyone explain what I need to do.
This view is from the middle of the car, under the shifter, looking forward along the rod to where the rod meets the transmission.

Unzoomed for perspective:


close up:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Thank you, Kerno! You saved me about $1,300. Have you ever thought about running a tally of how much money you have saved all of us who have followed your awesome instructions and saved a bundle? Perhaps enough for a pre-loved SL63?:)

Since this is about helping each other out, I wanted to offer a couple of things that I did that may help others.

First, for safety reasons, I did not just remove the junk broken plastic piece - I replaced it with a metal one (aluminum) that I bought on ebay from a company whose ebay user name is "Rebuild Master Tech" out of Pompano Beach, Florida. They do not include the e-clip and small spring you will find on your broken plastic piece, so make sure you save them when you remove the broken piece so that you can use them on your new metal piece.

Second, I did not have to drill out any rivets at all. I simply swung the black waffle patterned plastic cover and wiggled the broken piece out AFTER removing the e-clip and wiggled the metal piece in. It is not difficult at all but it will need patience. It took me about 10 to 15 minutes in total to remove the broken plastic piece and install the metal piece.

Third, I had to park my car for about a week while waiting for the part to arrive. These guys make different sizes of this part. The main difference is the size of the hinges: one is 5mm and the other one is 11mm. Based on the measurements from my broken plastic piece, I ordered the 11mm part for my 2003 S430. Unless you know ahead of time, you will have to take the broken piece out and measure it and order the correct one. The best part is the cost: $75.00 plus $3.00 for standard/ground shipping. I am sure they can get it to you faster if you pay the extra cost.

I have now driven it for a couple of days and more than 100 miles and it works perfectly fine. To those of you who are hoping your plastic piece is NOT broken or breaking, DO NOT be fooled if it appears to be intermittent. Mine started being difficult to get out of park. It would require force during cold weather days and on nice warm days, it was working just fine. This progressively got worse until one day, it just would not get out of park at all. Fortunately, it was in my garage and thanks to Kerno it only cost me $78.00 and a couple of hours in total to fix. Kerno, if you ever come to the Mile High City, let me know and I could at least treat you to a nice cold beer and a juicy steak! It's the least I can do.

Cheers!
Great and detailed post, THANKS Kerno!

I'm about to do the repair and replace this weekend... (W220-2000 -S500)

I found a source for the part 65$ (ships ALL 3 sizes!)
Parts Geek
00 2000 Mercedes S500 Shift Interlock Solenoid - Driveshaft & Axle - Dorman - PartsGeek
Dorman Shift Interlock Solenoid
Sale Price: $65.23
Part Number: 6452-05392236
 

·
Registered
2003 S55 AMG
Joined
·
348 Posts
Damn. I had been wanting to do this for the last couple of years but restled over which one to buy since you don't know until you open the selector module.
About 6 months ago I bought the wider lever at a guess and had to file it down and use washer spacers to make it fit.
Now they sell all 3 together for about the same price I bought for one!
Interestingly the plastic one I removed was actually in great shape and non distructive testing indicated that it still very sturdy and not at all brittle.
Glad it's done though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I just destroyed my center console because I couldn't get my car out of park, no matter how much or hard I struck the shifter with a hammer.

Once you pull up and remove the shift boot, drill a hole in the right rear corner of the shifter housing, immediately below (behind) the right rear screw that holds on the rubber shift pattern plate. You're looking for access to the right of two holes in the stainless plate beneath the housing. Once you have access to the hole, insert a stiff wire (a straightened paper clip should work) with a slight bend in it into the hole. Point the tip of the wire toward the center line of the shifter and you should be able to catch the edge of the broken plastic lever and disengage the locking lever.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
1991 500SL purch 10/2013 w/ 86,500 miles. 2001 S55 purch 9/2014 w/ 47,000 miles.
Joined
·
2,112 Posts
Had my 2001 S55 towed to my mechanic as it was stuck in park. The tow truck operator had to drag it out as it wouldn't go in neutral. Banged the rims up some too on the side of the flat bed. Was very aggrevating.

My mechanic called Mercedes about a new shifter. They wouldn't sell him the shifter. They wanted me to tow it back to Mercedes. $1,500 installed.

My mechanic found that there were kits for the broken part. I ordered an aluminum one on ebay for $32. Part will be delivered Friday.

Mercedes Benz Trans Shifter Selector Park Repair Lever Kit Ctrl 11mm Both Types | eBay

Mercedes should be ashamed that they skimp by putting cheap plastic in a $100k plus car.

I'm glad that Mercedes wouldn't sell them the shifter. Saved $1,000. Screw them.
 

·
Registered
2003 S55 AMG
Joined
·
348 Posts
Good find on the part. That's good that they sell you both because you wont know until you open the shifter if its one design or the other. There is a good you tube video in how to replace the broken part in the shifter if you didn't know already.

MB USA will not sell the shifter because its a theft relevant part that would need to be coded to only ever work with your VIN number. Only the dealer typically has the install (green) key to program the shifter with a one-time operation using STAR DAS. The EIS module and the ECU are also tied into the shifter. In other words if you ever try and use a used item of any one of these 3 items, then you need all 3 from the same donor car. They can never be reprogrammed for another VIN unless you are into reprogramming DSP chips at the circuit board level. Makes me laugh when I see someone on eBay selling them individually as they will never work. Only those sellers selling EIS, Shifter, and ECU + ignition keys together know what's going on.
 
  • Like
Reactions: scottejupiter

·
Registered
1991 500SL purch 10/2013 w/ 86,500 miles. 2001 S55 purch 9/2014 w/ 47,000 miles.
Joined
·
2,112 Posts
Thanks for the information. I'm just glad that they wouldn't sell it as I would be out an extra $1,000 or more. My mechanic was actually quite mad that Mercedes wanted to take away his business. He said there are a few other parts that are like that. Not sure if they are all anti theft.
 

·
Registered
2003 S55 AMG
Joined
·
348 Posts
Your mechanic is more than likely referring to the same parts I mentioned above.
 
  • Like
Reactions: scottejupiter

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
At this point, the only thing keeping the shifter in the car is the shift cable. The cable goes down through the tunnel and attaches to a lever on the transmission. Some people say they were able to remove the cable from the shifter without disconnecting it at the transmission, but I did not seem to have enough room to do so. So, you now need to go under the car and disconnect the one clip that attaches the shift cable to the lever on the left side of the trans. It is a simple clip with a single lock tab, but there is very little room to work. A very long pair of needle nose pliers will help both with the removal and installation. Once the cable is loose, move the lever toward the rear of the car and you'll have room to get it free of the lever.

Right about now, you are wondering why you thought you could do this. But, you can!

Now, back into the interior. The only task left is to disconnect the cable at the shifter. The cable is held on by a single tab on a clip. The clip and the tab simply need to be move far enough toward the rear of the car to disengage the tab from a groove in the cable pin and the cable will come right out. The good news is that it snaps right back together when you are finished fixing the shifter. The photo shows the cable just removed, with the retaining clip in position on the blue bushing in the cable



Now, you should have the shifter out of the car. It is stupidly over designed in many areas, yet has a very flimsy plastic part that fails. The plastic part is buried within the shifter. Here's what I figured goes on in the shifter: At the rear of the shifter is a round solenoid, shown in the first photo below. You can also see most of the black lastic lever in the picture. You just can't get to it - yet.



When you step on the brake and the ignition is on, the solenoid is energized and pushes up on the junk plastic part. When it does, the plastic part pushes a metal lever backwards, allowing the shifter to move. If the plastic part fails, the metal lever does not move and neither do you. Again, my fix involved defeating the brake/shift interlock. I removed both the black plastic lever, the retaining ring that hold it in place, the metal lever that it actuates and the spring that helps move the metal lever.

Turn the shifter over and you'll find three screws that hold it into the housing. Remove those three screws and the shifter will come apart.



Next, remove the two screws holding the detent roller in place, They are marked with arrows. It does not have to be removed, but it will make things easier!



At this point, you can look in the side and see part of the black plastic lever and the e-ring holding it in place. In the picture, the e-ring is down in the rectangular slot in the very center of the picture.



Now we get to the interesting part. You'll notice that the top of the shifter is completely covered with a curved stainless sheet metal cover. We need to get under that cover. It is held in place with one screw at the front and two rivets. Remove the screw, ignore the rivet on the near side and turn the shifter over. There is a rivet just forward of the round solenoid that has to be removed. Take a 1/8" drill and drill it out until the head is gone. Once you get rid of that rivet, the only thing left holding the cover on is the rivet into the plastic side panel. That rivet stays. We're going to remove the side panel. The panel slides onto three tabs in the base. Insert a screwdriver and evenly pry the panel off the three tabs.



The panel also supports the main pivot shaft in the shifter, so pry it off the shaft as well. When you've done that, the assembly should look like this:



Now, remove the cover and side panel and set them aside. You can now remove the black plastic lever. When you do, the metal lever just beyond it is spring loaded and will move up and lock the shifter, since it is the black plastic lever's job to push it down to unlock the shifter. Here's a shot of the metal lever and the e-ring that holds it in place:



Remove the e-ring, the lever and the fine wire spring that activates the metal lever. I assume you've already removed the black plastic lever and thrown it as far as you can. One poster said his shifter worked fine with the metal lever left in, but I'd be afraid that that since it is the actual "lock it in park" lever, I'd rather remove it than take a chance on it latching and leaving me stuck in park all over again

Now put everything back together. Start by putting the detent roller back in with its two screws. Next, replace the side panel and cover assembly. I did not replace the rivet I drilled out. Reassemble the shifter and head back to the car. Make sure that all three or four wiring harnesses at the front of the shifter and any cell phone harnesses are visible at the rear of the console before you bolt the shifter back in. It is very easy to trap one under the shifter. Ask me how I know! All of the parts that snap together do so with out much effort. If something does not want to go together, find out why, don't force it. For example, the uppermost wood trim piece has a rubber tail on it than can be out of position and block the clips. It won't go on if the tail is in the way. Also, the carpeting at the front of the console slides into two grooves in the console. It is easier to make sure it is in the grooves as you are installing the console than shoving it in after the console is bolted down.
The shifter lever locking latch you replaced was it an alumunim 5mm or 11mm for the 2004 s500 mercedes benz because in doing reseach it seem as if there are two replacement sizes out that has been continous... which one do I order?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Good morning, I'm Ty from the U.S. I'm familiar with the removal of the shifter and stuff I was just wondering when ordering the metal shifter lever locking latch should that be 5 mm or the 11mm for my Mercedes Benz 2004 s500 or I guess the W220 model?
 

·
Registered
2003 S500
Joined
·
2,790 Posts
One vendor sends you both sizes, for little more than the cost of one lever. No way to know which size you have without taking the shifter apart and looking. Having both takes care of the problem...
 

·
Registered
2003 CL55 AMG
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hi Guys, i'm not really handy with tools at all so I would be a little shakey about attempting this by myself. Anybody know of any mechanics in the New York area that can do this easy fix?

Thnx
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Awesome post. very detailed.

Fixed my S430 which would not budge out of Park. The hammer trick did not work either. I had to take out the shifter still stuck in park and then rest was straight forward.

Removing Centre console took more time than taking out shifter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
how can i get my pin to move so that i can get the nut at the base which is at the top out??
The trick is to remove the 2 nuts completely, then push the gear stick towards the reverse as much as you can push. This will give you enough room to engage the nut. Now keep pulling the shifter upwards as you unscrew the third nut.

get someone to help you in holding the gear stick down and to pull the shifter upwards.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
So I purchased the correct aluminum 11mm replacement piece (non offset) for my mom's 2003 SL500.

I caught it early, the plastic piece in her car had not completely broken.

The aluminum piece was very very tight and I had to basically drive it down on to the pivot that it rides on in the shifter.

I have reassembled everything but now it does not lock in park. I understand how the plastic piece locks the metal hammer in place preventing it from moving, and when I move it into the lock position the shifter does what it's suppose to (out of the car). What could I have done wrong?
 
101 - 120 of 162 Posts
Top