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Dallas, Texas
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its just gone 11 in uk.....snow and freezing and i went out and checked which wheel was broken....yes its the crankshaft wheel......the belt is off and its really strange.....its as if there is a whee with brooves on it going around a smaller wheel.....the wheel with grooves on have come away and can be actually taken off the inner wheel.....this does not look good....
how is it meant to be attached and can it be replaced simply....
cheers all
gary
Fresh thread just started.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w16...nic-balancer-question.html?highlight=harmonic
 

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2005 E320 CDI, 2016 E250
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3,199 Posts
jpayton...you'd be best suited to ask the S Class section...different motor and assembly.
 

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7 Posts
harmonic balancer problem.....all solved.

quick update.....i could not do the removal of the bolt myself and so i called mercedes benz here in brighton uk and guess what they said they replace free of charge regardless of age of car or high mileage......very impressed !!!!
anyway got cat to them on back of recovery lorry and due to new year and the snow we have had here whole country came to standstill.
rang them today and told that the pully and belt had marked the engine casing and the oil sump.
expensive i thought but before i could ask the manager told me the engine was out the car and the engine casing and oil sump had been changed and engne was going back in today. car will be ready tomorrow all FREE OF CHARGE.
What a result.....well happy and have been totally impressed with mercedes over this.
so tomorrow get the car back and lower the front end by 1 1/2 inches to improve stance.
so all in all very happy an would like to give big shout out to mercedes benz in brighton.....spot on..
have good week all..
gaz:):D;)
 

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I just did this. And it is easy. The instructions about doing the alternator last really helped. There is one more trick: on my 1998 ML320 I could not figure out how the tensioner pulley would be moved to allow you to slip the v-belt over the alternator. It is simple. Put a 17 mm wrench on what looks like a nut on the bottom of the tensioner housing. Do this from the bottom. It is not a nut, it is a casting/extension of the housing. You push counter clockwise, and the entire assembly lifts up under spring tension. This gives you enough slack to slip the belt in place. Hold it up while an assistant slips the v-belt over the alternator. Then let go and it moves back into place. Took five minutes, tops. V belt diagram is the back of the owner's manual, and not referenced in the index at all.

Jeff
 

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1998 ml320, 2009 suziki sx4, 1988 chevy k1500
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14 Posts
Belt Diagram

If you still have your owners manual there is a diagram of how the belt is suppose to go, its on page 116 for a 98 ml320. All you need is a 17mm socket and a long box wrench. The 17mm bolt is to the left off the tension pulley, as stated on here it is a lot easier to get from underneath. I found no need to mess with the security torx in the middle of the pulley.
 

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04 Adventurewagen
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I have designed an all aluminum Idler and Tensioner Pulley with replaceable bearings to fit on our G-500 M113 engines. The same parts are also applicable for some of the ML 164 engine models.

The pulleys are made from aircraft aluminum stock and hard anodized to serve for a long time unlike the plastic ones which might come apart and let you stranded with a big repair bill on top.

Please have a look at Mercedes-Benz G wagen class G-500 G-320 G-55 W463 W460 Parts accessories
 

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My wifes 2001 ML32 just blew out the tensioner pulley bearings and ate up the belt today.

Replacing the pulley should be a snap and I got the pulley off in 5 minutes by removing the center bolt. However the only parts store open on Sunday ONLY sells the whole tension assembly......:mad:

Does anyone know if just the pulley is available? If not getting to and removing the assembly bolts will be a little more difficult to access, plus I would need to pic up the correct sockets for those bolts. Anyone know the correct torx socket size off hand?
I have been lookingon line and cannot find just the pulley. Would consider buying one and pulling the pulley off the assemble.

Oh,
And I went to the parts store first, since I needed the torx security socket to remove the tension pulley. They sold me an idler pulley and since I didn't have the old one in hand and the idler pulley they sold me had grooves in it I didn't think it was the correct part. When I got home I discovered I was right:rolleyes:

Thanks guys in advance!!
 

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Pulley for tensioner is not available as separate part. Get entire assembly. Get E8, E10, E12 and E14 Torx sockets. With belt off check for play in water pump bearings and other pulleys for noise free movement.

 

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99 ML430, 00 ML320, 05 E500 4matic Wagon
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23,340 Posts
There is nothing wrong with that Dayco belt. My personal preference is the Conti Tech belt,
but the Dayco is a decent belt and will do the job. Also you can probably find one locally
at one of the big box auto parts stores.
 

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2004 w211 E320 base
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136 Posts
thx a lot

There is nothing wrong with that Dayco belt. My personal preference is the Conti Tech belt,
but the Dayco is a decent belt and will do the job. Also you can probably find one locally
at one of the big box auto parts stores.
thx a lot your reply is very helpful since no body asked on this thread on what belt to use...lol
 

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2000 ML430 (Sold)
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1,209 Posts
Im running a BF Goodwrench Gator belt from PartSource in Canada. Works great, reliable, and inexpensive.
 

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1999 E430; 2005 ML500
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3,410 Posts
That's a good question. We have 9-years old belt on at least one of our MB and it doesn't look too bad. When you see cracks on the surface, that would be the first sign, but telling the truth, I had V-belt with some serious crack on my tractor. I bought spare one when I noticed that, regardless 6 years later the cracked belt was still on the engine.
My personal advice is, that if you don't know how to change the belt, have it done every 50-60 thousands. If you know how to do it, buy one at 70.000 and carry with you. You might not need it in the life of the car, but risk of getting strangled in the middle of dessert is too high.
Well my fate was different. I noticed some cracking and fraying on the belt on Sunday, so ordered a belt for delivery on Thursday. On Tuesday afternoon the belt gave up the ghost, taking the dipstick handle with it (will probably have to remove the tube to extract it). Got a Dayco belt from Advance, which lasted all of about 5 minutes - hopefully can get a refund.
I'm guessing I have some pulley resistance somewhere, but there were no noises or smoking, and the AC works fine.
 

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2006 ML500 2002 ML320
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Well my fate was different. I noticed some cracking and fraying on the belt on Sunday, so ordered a belt for delivery on Thursday. On Tuesday afternoon the belt gave up the ghost, taking the dipstick handle with it (will probably have to remove the tube to extract it). Got a Driverite belt from Advance, which lasted all of about 5 minutes - hopefully can get a refund.
I'm guessing I have some pulley resistance somewhere, but there were no noises or smoking, and the AC works fine.
See if you can purchase a Gates belt as they are the OE makers. Check all components before installing new belt (as you know).

Below are the parts required if need be, but replace the gasket as they tend to dry out.
 

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1999 E430; 2005 ML500
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Thanks 43. I put the Conti belt on today (with a new idler) and all looks good. There were some strips wrapped up in the back of the alternator pulley, but all else seems good and very quiet.
Now on to the real problem child: '05 Jetta with shi**y brakes and vacuum leaks.
 

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1999 E430; 2005 ML500
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3,410 Posts
Just closing the loop on the broken dipstick. I got the old one out by using hot glue on the end of a 3/8" extension, which had a lot of surface area to work with. Helped the glue cool first with an ice cube, and it worked like a charm.
 
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