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1922 Ford T no OBD, no ECU, no SCN
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Same topic goes in 210 section, that shares the engine.
The tensioner has big hex for pulling the tensioner out and smaller center bolt is locking it.
You need a long box wrench to take the tension off and than you can slip the belt off. I think for easier job you can pull the tensioner out and lock it in this position with smaller bolt, what would leave you 2 hands to deal with the belt, but I never actually tried this method. Sizes wary supposable 13-17 mm for tensioner and smaller bolts come with different sizes and shapes.
 

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1922 Ford T no OBD, no ECU, no SCN
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37,855 Posts
Wait. There must be a reason why it is safety bolt. That doesn't look like tension mechanism. Might be just the rerouting wheel. It looks quite different on my 99 and 01 engines.
I am not familiar with your set up, but if you are not sure what is the tensioner, push the belt where you can and see what pulley will move. That would be the tensioner. Your picture is dark, but there might be spring mechanism behind the wheel.?
 

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1922 Ford T no OBD, no ECU, no SCN
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37,855 Posts
That's a good question. We have 9-years old belt on at least one of our MB and it doesn't look too bad. When you see cracks on the surface, that would be the first sign, but telling the truth, I had V-belt with some serious crack on my tractor. I bought spare one when I noticed that, regardless 6 years later the cracked belt was still on the engine.
My personal advice is, that if you don't know how to change the belt, have it done every 50-60 thousands. If you know how to do it, buy one at 70.000 and carry with you. You might not need it in the life of the car, but risk of getting strangled in the middle of dessert is too high.
 
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