[Poundy]

Think I need help again :bowdown: I stripped the door panel down to lubricate the drivers side window. I have reinstalled everything but the seat control buttons now seem to have a mind of their own and don't always go in the direction pressed. I was sat in the drivers seat and pressed the button for more legroom and finished up trapped against the steering wheel chin against the window I thought I was never going to get out My Daughter was of no help she was just rolling around the garage floor in a fit of hysterical laughter shouting SELL IT and get a Hyundi Luckily the button had a change of mind and the seat went in the right direction.

Should I have done something to re-set the control buttons.

 

[TUGBOATING]

Hi poundy,yep these seats do seem to have a mind of there own,i cannot solve my problem nothing seems to be constant,everytime the symptoms are different,the only thing common is the power supply,i need to know where the relays are so that i can eliminate them,thinking of changing the seats for "orange boxes",not so complicated...good luck.

 

[cec96sl500]

Poundy, lol I am still laughing. I can't help you with your problem but your story was hilarious!

 

[iresfrank]

Think I need help again :bowdown: I stripped the door panel down to lubricate the drivers side window. I have reinstalled everything but the seat control buttons now seem to have a mind of their own and don't always go in the direction pressed. I was sat in the drivers seat and pressed the button for more legroom and finished up trapped against the steering wheel chin against the window I thought I was never going to get out My Daughter was of no help she was just rolling around the garage floor in a fit of hysterical laughter shouting SELL IT and get a Hyundi Luckily the button had a change of mind and the seat went in the right direction.

Should I have done something to re-set the control buttons.

Too bad your daughter did not have a video camera. That would have been great on youtube

 

[Poundy]

cant decide if I should be looking at the switches or the controller underneath. Read an article where a lady was driving in the fast lane and the seat started moving forward on it's own. She managed to park it on the centre reservation before it locked her up. How scarey would that be

 

[TUGBOATING]

electric seats fault.

Hi Poundy,i have similar problems with my seats,i have tried everything,the only thing i hav,nt tried yet is changing the four capacitors in the control boxes, i,ve got a gut feeling this is where my problems lie,i,m ordering some from the uk,will post and let you know how i get on,wont be for a few weeks though.never did find out where the relays were.......

 

[Poundy]

Tugboating we have solved my problem. My daughters guy is a lift tec and sorted it for me. We found if we put pressure on the 6 pin plug behind the door panel switches it would perform properly. There is a bit of a void where the wires go in and they have a tendency to let the female pins lift in the socket. He lifted the cap off the 6 pin plug re soldered the wires because they looked a bit dry, squeezed the sockets slightly so that they were a better fit and put a thin plastic spacer between the fold over top and the female pins to take up the slack in the 6 pin female plug.
It now works perfectly, I thought I would be up for at least a door pad or a underseat controller.

SORTED FOR FREE :thumbsup: hope this helps.

 

[Poundy]

Well an update to my story
You may recall we resoldered the 6 pins in the plug that goes in the seat (pictured) adjuster door switch and solved all the movement problems :thumbsup:

About 3yrs later the guy who did my fender bender finished up trapped in the same position as me in post 1
When I collected the car I had to remove the switch and squeeze and mess with it so I could make enough room to get in and drive home. I then pulled the plug as this is not something you want going wrong while driving, it seems any memory or switch movement sends it further and further forward.

I have learned a bit more since then, and my soldering knowledge is better thanks to e-420

So what I found, is a similar problem with the same result. I found the 6 pins in the back of the switch get stressed probably from pulling the tight fitting plug a few times when removing the door panel is necessary.

If you look closely at the solder joints, you may be able to see the cracks around several of the centre pin areas, causing the malfunctions.

I heated the solder up to a nice shiny liquid and all is back working correctly again. It is now safe to get back into the driving seat :thumbsup:
TIP: if you do this once the 2 pieces are lose keep them in the upright position when taking the top of so you don't lose any little pins inside.

 

[macysum]

Well an update to my story
You may recall we resoldered the 6 pins in the plug that goes in the seat (pictured) adjuster door switch and solved all the movement problems :thumbsup:

About 3yrs later the guy who did my fender bender finished up trapped in the same position as me in post 1
When I collected the car I had to remove the switch and squeeze and mess with it so I could make enough room to get in and drive home. I then pulled the plug as this is not something you want going wrong while driving, it seems any memory or switch movement sends it further and further forward.

I have learned a bit more since then, and my soldering knowledge is better thanks to e-420

So what I found, is a similar problem with the same result. I found the 6 pins in the back of the switch get stressed probably from pulling the tight fitting plug a few times when removing the door panel is necessary.

If you look closely at the solder joints, you may be able to see the cracks around several of the centre pin areas, causing the malfunctions.

I heated the solder up to a nice shiny liquid and all is back working correctly again. It is now safe to get back into the driving seat :thumbsup:
TIP: if you do this once the 2 pieces are lose keep them in the upright position when taking the top of so you don't lose any little pins inside.

After Poundy referred me to this page and his procedure I pulled the driver's seat adjuster off today on my '90 Roadster and don't have any of the same cold solder appearances.

I've put two close-up's of the solder joints (one w/ flash the other w/o) to illustrate my conclusion. Does anyone see bad connections in these pictures? Maybe somewhere else on the pcb or in the wiring harness??

I'll go ahead and re-flow the solder on these six pins and hope this solves my forward-only seat movement. Since it was a very rare occurrence (once/yr?) I may not know for a long time.

 

[e-420]

Having spent 40 years in the electronics industry. Resolder. Many of the pins look like marginal or bad joints. Cant tell for sure without better pictures but they are not joints that would pass our inspections

 

[macysum]

No joy after re-flowing solder on the seat adjuster PCB. I also took apart the six-pin connector to see if there was a cold solder joint in one of the socket connections (see attached pic). A couple of the sockets didnt have much solder in them so I re-flowed and added solder to them.

After reassembling and installing the panel back into the door to my great dismay the seat would only go forward

I went back inside and left it alone for 15 minutes and now all I get is a sound of the relay clicking under the seat for the forward/rearward drive motor. The steering column still operates correctly as does the headrest.

Any suggestions where next? (Get out the ETM disk and trace it to under the seat?)

 

[e-420]

it is possible that the seat for/aft switch is defective and not making contact in the back position.

I remember looking at my switch when I changed light bulbs, but don't recall exactly how it made contact for the two positions. Dig out ETM and check for switch continuity in the for and aft positions.

 

[macysum]

it is possible that the seat for/aft switch is defective and not making contact in the back position.

I remember looking at my switch when I changed light bulbs, but don't recall exactly how it made contact for the two positions. Dig out ETM and check for switch continuity in the for and aft positions.

Today I swapped the Left and right Electric Seat Adjustment (ESA) Control modules (N32/1 & N32/2) and both now work properly ??

Using the test procedure in the Star Classic Service Manual, section 15.1, to measure resistance on ESA connector 1 (pins 4 and 3) I got 2.2 KOhms unswitched, 44 Ohms in forward position and 17 Ohms in reverse...all correct. I'm perplexed.

I suspect the fault will come back to the drivers side and at least now I've eliminated the ESA and know it's either the fore/aft (S91) switch or the wiring/solder joints connecting the switch to the ESA.

Any suggestions where to look next? Back to the door switch panel - perhaps suck out all the solder there and resolder all the joints from scratch?

 

[RKH]

How about the connectors ? You had just removed, swap and reconnected them and both works. Could be just dirty or loose connections. Give them a good cleaning.

 

[scottejupiter]

Norm, I thought you just sat on sheep and didn't bother with a car seat down under.

My window squeaks too. Was planning on taking the door apart once work slowed down. Now maybe I think I can live with it.

 

[RKH]

Squeaky window while moving could be just rubbing against weather strips, try silicone spray.

 

[scottejupiter]

Tried that. Didn't work.

 

[RKH]

The adjustment of window can be done from the outside without removing the inside panel. Have you determined where the squeaking (rubbing) location/area is from ?

 

[macysum]

How about the connectors ? You had just removed, swap and reconnected them and both works. Could be just dirty or loose connections. Give them a good cleaning.

Yeah - liberally applied DeOxit with Q-tips on the pins sticking out of the ESAs while I had them exposed. They looked somewhat oxidized but aluminum looks like that after years and they don't brighten up much after cleaning.

Did the same on the door switch pins when I had them open. I think (hope) I've eliminated that.

 

[scottejupiter]

The adjustment of window can be done from the outside without removing the inside panel. Have you determined where the squeaking (rubbing) location/area is from ?

It happens even when the top is down so it's not hitting rubber there. It starts a few seconds after it starts moving up but before it hits the rubber near the front of the car. I tried silicon paste around the bottom of the rubber and that just made a mess of the window. Also tried to spray WD40 down underneath and that did no good.