Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

SBU reverse lever linkage

2796 Views 19 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  CragDuc
The reverse gear linkage on my mog is sloppy to say the least. Turns out the ball/socket joints are to blame. The balls are metal and OK. However the sockets are plastic and have cracked. I could have lived with it as is, but I decided to replace them.

MB provided replacement part 001 991 1422 (The original one is 000 991 5722)
As can be seem from the pic, the new one is totally integrated and I will have to remove the old ball joints and get a coupling nut as the thread sex is wrong.

I am assuming MB changed this as part of ongoing improvement. But before I remove the old balls, I thought I would check in case someone on the forum has encountered this before - perhaps a technical note somewhere ? Trev ?

Attachments

See less See more
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Was there a "+1" or any notes in the epc on the part you ordered? Quite often if the part has changed and another item is needed in addition there will be a tech note right in the epc or a sub part number under that says "in addition to" or "required for or as of".
Was there a "+1" or any notes in the epc on the part you ordered? Quite often if the part has changed and another item is needed in addition there will be a tech note right in the epc or a sub part number under that says "in addition to" or "required for or as of".
I will ask the vendor.

Found this: I guess I am on the right track as this shows the old and new parts.

Attachments

See less See more
2
Just got to a PC.This is what I get when I put in your old part number:

Line art Text Auto part Diagram Automotive window part


And the new part number:

Text Line art Line Font Auto part


As you can see, they are defiantly different parts, one is male thread and the other female, IMHO you got the wrong part, but I'm no Merc parts person ;) Maybe there's an update your vendor knows about that I don't. If you want to PM me your full VIN, I'll tell you exactly which one is the proper one for your truck (providing the data card is in the EPC) though i suspect it's the one that looks exactly like your old one, and you'll know for sure if you have the right or wrong part, but again just IMO you have the part for the different application.
See less See more
Here's that stock image in a bit higher res, you can see there's two different applications, 305 and 284, I think you need 305 and ended up with 284 if I read your post right. There's also an "up to identity" and "from identity" which is, up to serial number XXXXX and after serial number XXXXX

FWIW when I put your old number in, it does not change up to the new one you received (ie, it doesn't say "replaced by") nor does it say the old one is NLA, again I think they just have you the wrong part.

Attachments

See less See more
Thanks Trev,

Yes, I ordered 305 (part # 0009915722) and MB told the vendor that it has been replaced by 284 (0019911422). So, maybe the MB rep got it wrong. Waiting for vendor to respond, but I am happy to do the swtichover. Just that with a replacement, I would have expected a package with 284 + Nut + washer + technote. That would have been the proper way to offer a replacement part.

I will document the change once done, but so far the bits are being cleaned and painted before start removing balls.
Thanks Trev,

Yes, I ordered 305 (part # 0009915722) and MB told the vendor that it has been replaced by 284 (0019911422). .
Very possible. Sometimes when I order direct from Ma Benz, I give my parts guy a number from the EPC and he says that number has changed to XXXXX, even though my EPC doesn't show that number as a change over, and neither does his, until he goes to order it and gets word from the mothership that it's changed up.

This is why...I'm not a Ma Benz parts guy ;) Though I'm nearly bald and grey enough to qualify!
Very possible. Sometimes when I order direct from Ma Benz, I give my parts guy a number from the EPC and he says that number has changed to XXXXX, even though my EPC doesn't show that number as a change over, and neither does his, until he goes to order it and gets word from the mothership that it's changed up.

This is why...I'm not a Ma Benz parts guy ;) Though I'm nearly bald and grey enough to qualify!
That is interesting. It would indicate they have yet another separate database that handles parts. May be a good security reason.

I have some sympathy for MB because how long does one support a product ? My mog is already 30yrs old, so I accept that some parts are NLA (like my radiator). However, when a substitute is identified it means someone has done some work in linking the obsolete part with the newer available part. It would be just a small step away to complete that exercise in providing a tech note that spells out the extra steps/parts required so that the substitute can be a complete replacement and note than in the EPC.

Anyway - onwards we go :smile
Oh I have the same sentimants. How about ordering a RIDICULOUSLY expensive, direct from MB Ujoint that:

1. Doesn't come with new clips (whatever, I can live with that)
2. Doesn't fit without machining, no notes, nothing.

If it weren't for this forum...I'd have been lost.
5
The vendor confirmed that it was only once they ordered the part that MB came back with the alternative part. And no tech note available:frown

Anyway, it is done without too much trouble.

I had to machine a coupling nut to fit the front ball joint onto the existing shaft. The new part was too long so I cut the thread to suit.

The ball on the lever came off by means of drilling out the swaged back - it has a central dimple so using a 12mm drill I removed just enough to clear the swage and the rest pushed out with no trouble. The hole is exactly 10mm which matches the new parts - good news as I was a bit cynical and expected the worst. I also modified the new part by cutting a slot into the 10mm bolt end. Reason is to be able to hold the bolt still when tightening or loosening the nut. I can well imagine that with time, the nut corrodes onto the bolt and it will then just spin upon loosening.

Removing the ball on the gearbox was not so easy and the trusty old angle grinder had to do its thing ! The problem was then to get the remaining bit out of the lever - rusted, so I had to push it out using a ball joint remover. Once more hole was 10mm - good news. I was then able to fit the shaft using the original coupling nut - this nut has opposite hand threads allowing adjustment of the shaft length without removing anything.

So there it is - job done :smile

Attachments

See less See more
Interesting. Must be a recent change. I got a new one last spring of the old style.

C.
hey while you're in the area you could upgrade your main shifter with the "gearshift vibration absorber"...I kid you not!

I spotted it in the EPC looking for something else, thought I'd share. Weird.

Attachments

See less See more
  • Like
Reactions: 1
That looks interesting, wonder why there would be that much vibration to require that. The gearshift does transmit a lot of noise into the cab, but never seen one vibrating enough to even consider adding a "gearshift vibration absorber", maybe it is to slow down the army guys from trying to shift too fast
Iain, as trivial as it sounds, once you've got everything else nice and quiet the buzzing gearshift becomes an irritation. The reshimming of the back-end of my gearbox made a significant difference to the buzzing. At 90kmph cruizing there is still a buzz that I'd like to eliminate so I'll explore this option.
The that damper for the raised cab trucks, to let it pull on the gearbox lever without overtravelling the shift dog?

C.
Nope, specifically says anti vibration. Are the raised cab trucks not just a sunken well (ie, the shift plate is actually in the same spot, the cab is raised, and a "well" is put around the shift plate)?
EUROII was as much (as near as I can figure) about the noise in the cab for the occupants as it was emissions (was it even about emissions? I've never googled it...). Lots of EUROII stuff is sound deadening, I've covered a few items before: http://www.benzworld.org/forums/unimog/2164609-square-cab-factory-sound-deadening.html

This is just one of those items.
Some of the trucks with the cab lift have a shift plate lift also. Some do not. 10 million snowflakes....

C.
I saw what you had added to your gear shift to minimise the noise when I was up as Urs's place. I would add a wrap of mass loaded vinyl over the soft foam you added. Mass Loaded Vinyl « « Solavis Conservation Systems Pty. Ltd. ? Call 1300 127 227
Mass damping helps a lot more than absorption for those type of noises.

Iain, as trivial as it sounds, once you've got everything else nice and quiet the buzzing gearshift becomes an irritation. The reshimming of the back-end of my gearbox made a significant difference to the buzzing. At 90kmph cruizing there is still a buzz that I'd like to eliminate so I'll explore this option.
All of my insulation is a composite using closed cell foam and an MLV core. MLV is then new lead. Very effective. Over my gearplate I have the foam plus a rubber backed commercial carpet tile. I'm sure a decently thick layer of MLV would be better.

At 2200 revs my truck is pleasantly quiet inside. At my 2600 cruising speed the engine or fan gets quite noisy. Fast axles will do the trick.
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top