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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, I'm looking for a couple of new or used early type square dash switches for my SBU. I don't care what the icon might be or if they light up, just need good switching condition, I'll do the rest. Anyone out there have a couple from an old rusty SBU cab they'd be willing to sell? I was quoted $70+ for new and can't justify that at this time. Thanks, Tony
 

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1980 U1000 Turbo...
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You too?
I have bveen after the same here in the UK. I just want all the acessories to be switched by one type of switch!
 

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'76 1300L,HE351CW,H15P Winches,Konis,Hydraulics,All Gears,10mm Plungers,Aftercooler,Lots of Littles
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I need some too. Are they still made? Maybe we can do a buy from Hella? I have a friend who is a dealer for them, but they have goofy minimum order requirements.

Anyone know the Hella P/N?

C.
 

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85' U1300L Holset Turbo VA A/C, 66' Propane 404.1 rock mog, 1975 416 Doka, G500, Volvo C303
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Almost makes me want to sell mine off. I would love to update the dash in mine.
 

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1980 U1000 Turbo...
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Almost makes me want to sell mine off. I would love to update the dash in mine.
That's just it, we're too tight to pay for them!

I did manage to get 5 extra dash lights earlier, for .99p each.
I also just got a Ringfeder pin on hitch for the grand total of £12.09!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah, apparently they can be bought new for $70 and change each w/o the icon disc. I appreciate the offer from our vendors and would love to support them and keep my dash panel consistant, but that price is tough when I can get 50 amp rated good quality toggles for $6. Maybe a group buy is something to consider, but how cheap would they have to be to get any of us to buy 6 ea.?
 

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U1450L DOKA
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I bought 11 of them, if I recall, from MEREX and they were in the $40 range.
It has been a few years, but the exchange rate wasn't too drastically
different.

Oh, and the bulb change is accomplished with a straight pull out of the button. The Bulb is a standard bayonet type, just a 1/4 turn and it is out. There is no inner sleeve- I was confusing that switch with the indicator lights at the top of the dash- those lamps are held in via an inner plastic sleeve, and you slide that out for a bulb change...

When putting the button back in, after a bulb change, you'll note that there is a narrow index ridge, so the button slides
back in the right way. It isn't much of a ridge, so if you are ham-fisted, you can over-ride it and get the button in the wrong way...
 

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1986 U1300L Expedition Camper
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Reviving an old thread with additional info in case it is helpful to others wanting to repair or replace the square push button dash switches. I have two switches in my possession that I used to document the additional information. A good friend of mine sent me a switch and all of the parts (BIG thanks BTW) so I thought I would document my findings. This information is valid for the normally open momentary push button switch such as the one used for the windshield washer fluid.

These square push button switches come in both 24V and 12V versions depending on the model and electrical system of your Mog. Each can of course be identified by part number, but just in case both have either "12 Volt" or "24 Volt" molded into their bodies.

The switch assembly is comprised of four main parts; the switch housing, the bulb, the cap, and the lens. As others have mentioned, the cap is replaceable to identify which piece of equipment the switch controls.

The cap is easily removed from the switch housing with a firm tug, pulling the two parts away from each other. No need for any twisting etc to disassemble. Inside the switch housing you will find the bayonet style bulb that can be replaced if needed. Just rotate to remove or to install. The lens is removed by pushing it our of it's seat in the cap with a blunt object like a drift etc, taking care not to break or scratch the lens. The lens is keyed with a notched recess that aligns with the caps so the lens is always correctly oriented with the cap and switch when installed.

The cap can be reinstalled in only one orientation. As TRUKTOR mentions, there is a small rib on the cap you can see in the picture that aligns with a small groove in the switch housing. Take care to align the parts before reassembling. When installed properly, the cap will make a firm "snap" back into its place inside the switch housing.

I used a multimeter to check the pin assignments on the back. The switch has five pins marked 3, 4, 31, 58, and E. Pins 3 & 4 are used for the accessories and are connected when the switch is depressed. Pin 31 is for power and pin 58 is for the ground which both serve to light up the light bulb when the parking lights are turned on. This illuminates the switch. So far pin E is a mystery to me and I am still wondering what it is used for.

The only differences I can see between the 12 V and the 24 V versions is the resistor soldered between the light bulb's ground connection and pin 58 as a current limiting device. The 12 V version has a ~56 ohm resistor whereas the 24 V version has a ~150 ohm resistor soldered into place. If one needed to convert the switch from 12 V to 24 V or vice versa and was handy with a soldering gun, it would seem to be a pretty easy change to make.

Part numbers:
12 V Switch: A 000 545 89 14
24 V Switch: A 000 545 28 83
Cap: A 000 545 28 83
12 V / 2 W Bulb: N 072601 012800
24 V / 2 W Bulb: N 072601 024801
Lens: Multiple, inquire your dealer for available options
 

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2015 Rubicon Unlimited (Let the shame be upon me!)
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1986 U1300L Expedition Camper
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It doesn't look like DIN 72552 covers some of the terminal designations on these switches. Maybe it is covered somewhere else?
 
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