[nwtflogan]

Ok guys ive got a 97 s500 with 82k on it, as your driving you can watch the steering wheel move right and left very subtle, as you increase the speed to about 45 the shake gets much worse almost like a bent rim, and at about 65 it goes back to being subtle again, so i figured a tire or rim and decided to put 18" wheels and brand new tires on her, the problem is still there, next guess was maybe a warped brake rotor, so ireplaced the rotors and front pads < they were going to need done anyway so what the heck> still have the problem, when i put the car in the air there is a little play in the front end but because of all the parts the only place i think its coming from is the what looks like a pitman arm assembly underneath the passanger side floor, would that cause it or do you guys have any idea of what could cause this?

also i love the site and had a bad cluncking in the back rear right side shock area, then noticed my res. was low for the level ride, so from what i read here it sounds like a bad accummulator, could someone shoot me a post on the procedure of removing them and bleeding the system, p.s i dont have the ads on this car THANKS!!![]

 

[pchansen1]

Common causes for what ailes you in addition to what you've already mentioned are lower ball jounts and front shocks see: http://www.mercedesshop.com/Wikka/W140FrontShock. The suspension on these cars are so involved that it could be a combination of things. One thing is for sure though- there shouldn't be any movement. I might recommend taking the car to a qualified mechanic that will honestly asses the condition of your suspension. From there you can decide which parts/procedures you can do your self. The above link will also get you to a place where the same guy has replaced the sway bar bushings I think.

Regarding the accumlators, The job is pretty easy, if not messy. Jack up the rear. Bleed off as much pressure as you can using the nipple on the level control valve. I stuck some clear plastic tubing on to the nipple and cracked it open to let the hyd fluid and foam escape. Once this is done you can remove the doughnuts or hangers that attach the exhaust system to the under side of the car. I think there were two on either side of the muffler and one just aft of the cats. This allows the system to hang down just enough to remove the driver's side accumulator. To remove the accumulator, simply removethe two hyd lines that attach to the accumulator and then remove the three mounting bolts. Prepare for an unholy mess at this point. Despite all my best efforts and warnings from other people I still dropped about a quart and a half of oil on the garage floor. Once both accumulators have been replaced I followed ALLDATADIY.com's instructions for filling and bleeding the system. Here's a reprint:
FILLING


Pour oil into the oil reservoir

Only reuse clean oil

Set level controller lever to "Fill" position (F) WARNING:
(loosen the ride height linkage- this will allow you to move the lever between FILL and EMPTY)
CAUTION
Risk of accident due to the vehicle starting off automatically when engine is running
CAUTION
Risk of injury due to bruising or burns when intervening while starting the engine or when the engine is running

Start engine, allow to run at moderate speed for approx. 60 seconds

The system bleeds itself automatically

Switch off engine

CAUTION
Ensure that there is sufficient oil in the oil reservoir
The pump must not suck in air under any circumstances

Set level controller lever (arrow) to position "Empty (L)"
After approx. 60 seconds, attach connecting rod or connecting linkage (7) to level control lever (arrows) NOTE:

Replace self-locking bolts and nuts
Place vehicle on its wheels and press down firmly several times.
The vehicle level adjusts itself
Check and correct oil level in oil reservoir

Be carefull not to over fill the reservoir. I got a little too concerned about running the pump dry that I overfilled the system. Remember that when you move the lever to FILL, your filling the accumulators and rasing the suspension. This will lower the reservoir. When I saw the low level ( lever still on FILL) I topped it off. Oopps! When I moved the lever to EMPTY (engine off) The accumulators purged their oil and it flowed back into the reservoir. I heard this strange squirting sound. There was oil all over my garage wall. It had squirted out the overflow which thankfully had been pointing toward the front of the car and not into the engine compartment. Nothing bad happens if you overfill the reservoir- it's just messy and embarrasing.
Good luck!
Paul

 

[Merc600sec]

Nice one paul..
would you like to post that onto the knowledge base? plus any pics you might have.. would be of help to all other owners in same situation....

 

[nwtflogan]

Thanks for the help with the accumulators, i still cant quite put my finger on the shimmy, the ball joints seem very tight, the only play is from side to side and its only in the pass. side i can move the wheels and watch the suspension and the only thing i can really see is that part under the pass. side floorboard and it looks similiar to a gm pitman arm, any idea what i mean or should i post some pics, thanks

 

[pchansen1]

Sure I'll Add it the the knowledge base- I'm without pictures though. I'll try to polish it up a bit as well.


Paul

 

[chuckindetroit]

The part under the passenger floorboard is the intermediate or idler arm. There is a bushing and bolt about 6" long on which the arm pivots. This can wear out and is easily replaced. There is a kit for it and costs about $30.